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| Lead Acid Battery Analyzers. Working principle? |
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| ogden:
--- Quote from: CJay on November 27, 2017, 06:55:23 pm --- --- Quote from: ogden on November 27, 2017, 05:37:05 pm ---Good. No doubt you know enough about car batteries which indeed needs car battery testers. I've been around quite enough industrial UPS'es instead. "Fancy" 1KHz ESR tester like Fluke 500 for SLA and deep cycle batteries works well - no need for cold crank test :) Not all lead acid batteries are equal. Automotive batteries quite differ from those used in emergency backup applications. --- End quote --- Are you claiming infallibility for the FLuke? --- End quote --- Indeed. Fluke 500 is very dependable if used for what it is made. BTW I never suggested that (hi-current) car battery shall be tested using such kind of tool :) For reference: http://en-us.fluke.com/products/battery-analyzers/ Quote: "Fluke Battery Analyzers are the ideal test tool for maintaining, troubleshooting and performance testing individual stationary batteries and battery banks used in critical battery back-up applications in data centers, telecom networks, power distribution systems and more. " |
| Rerouter:
The ones I have seen are pretty much jumper leads with a sense line (not true kelvin but close enough) and a high power switch to a load of about 0.1 ohms, measure the resting voltage, switch on the load, wait 2 seconds for the float voltage to dissapear and measure the loaded voltage, voltage drop under load gives you the internal resistance and lets you see if it can handle cranking. The more fancy ones can look at how long the float voltage hangs around for or if it momentarily dips etc, you can even see the float voltage stair step down if some cells are running dry as they go first. |
| bluey:
Ansmann kfz power check (12 euros) describes the working principles in the manual. https://www.ansmann.de/en/accessories/kfz-power-check https://www.ansmann.de/uploads/Import/docs/manuals/4000002_Kfz-Power-Check_Manual.pdf It uses the vehicle systems to charge and load the battery. Voltages for success and failure are described in detail in the specification. The tester turns the voltage into a colored led. Sounds eminently sensible. So i just need my voltmeter and a vehicle. No other equipment required. --- Quote ---SPECIFICATION: Alternator overcharging: LED on at 14.8V+/-0.1V and above. Alternator OK.: LED on at 13.8V+/-0.1V, off at 14.8V/-0.1V. Battery full charge: LED 75-100% on at 12.7V+/-0.05V and above; LED 25-75% on at 12.45V+/- 0.05V, off at 12.7+/-0.05V; LED 0-25% on at 12.2V+/- 0.05V, off at 12.45V+/-0.05V. Battery power test: LED on at 9.8V/-0.1V and above. Supply: 6 to 16V. Protection: Supply to 30V for 1 second. Fully protected against reverse connection and short circuit. --- End quote --- This japanese one has the led values on the case, but is a lot more generous with the threshholds. https://d10b75yp86lc36.cloudfront.net/Monotaro3/pi/full/mono35476813-101202-02.jpg |
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