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| LED LIGHTS. Any good flicker free ones? |
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| james_s:
You could add heat sinking to the inner bits of a regular off the shelf bulb. Back in 2012 I bought 6 of the first <$5 LED bulbs to appear on the market, disassembled them and mounted the LED boards on a 10" aluminum disk of about 1/4" thick I got out of the scrap bin at my friend's machine shop. I glued the driver boards to the underside and then attached the completed assembly into what was a 2D fluorescent torchier lamp that the ballast had blown up on. I figured I'd get a couple of years out of it but now more than a decade later it's still working just fine, it's the main light source in my living room and gets used hours virtually every day. About 3 years ago I installed a Shelly dimmer flashed with Tasmota into it in place of the switch so now it mostly gets run somewhat dimmed. I suspect it is mostly the improved cooling that has led to such exceptionally long life. |
| Psi:
This type of LED lamp is quite good too, spreads the heat out really well. I have them in my garage. |
| madires:
--- Quote from: james_s on January 22, 2023, 07:51:21 pm --- --- Quote from: madires on January 22, 2023, 03:16:07 pm ---BTW, the 'LED starter' is simply a fuse. And that fuse is a good idea in case the LED retrofit is suicidal. So far I had two retrofits go bang. --- End quote --- I would consider it a design flaw that the retrofit lamps don't have a fuse built in. Every screw in LED or CFL bulb I've torn down had either a fuse or a fusible resistor. --- End quote --- The PSUs of the two broken retrofits had fuses. The problem is that you never know until you take them apart. :D Anyhow, the broken retrofits are upcycled with 12V LED strips for workbench lighting. They are nicely made with an aluminium profile and acrylic glass. |
| thm_w:
--- Quote from: bigfoot22 on January 21, 2023, 07:04:45 am ---The funny thing is though is that I have a requirement for a 6500k bulb, this is a work area scenario. --- End quote --- The ergonomics of that workspace look horrific: - A bright light right in front of your face causing hot spots bouncing off various equipment on the side - PC blocking your legs from moving around - A desk thats too low for the chair requiring you to hunch over 6500k is not a "requirement" for a work area. https://www.ikioledlighting.com/blogs/cct_led_lights |
| Zucca:
Did not read the entire thread, so if it is already mentioned I beg for mercy. Please, Lord have mercy on my I am a sinner, if you are illuminating the Lab with LED DO NOT use cheap ass LED driver/bulbs from china! I did, they looked and felt okay in my hands.... but when I turn them on my scope can't trigger anymore in a stable way. They crap my entire Lab with EMI like an AM radio tower from the '60. No it's not noise from the mains lines, it's something related to the secondary and no matter how many C or L I out on the output it is always there. Since they were slim design, they did not care about the loop area after the high voltage trafo... Yes I tried with ferrite clamps but it's like curing a cancer patient with orange juice. Yes I tried with alu tape, but no joy. Tons of video on YT, this is the one I like the most EDIT: I just bought some nice and $$$ Mean Well RSP series PSU.... I let you know how they goes.... |
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