Maplin "Insurers cast doubt over future of Maplin" (now CLOSING stores)

[Howardlong]

https://www.bitsbox.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=238_244&products_id=2843

Bitsbox are pretty good. If you want mid-range components next day for a low delivery fee they do a damn good job.

I may be mistaken, but that doesn’t look like tripad.

I’m a fan of it as well.

Edit: you’re right it is tripad.

[bd139]

It is tripad. I use it on and off although dead bug is quicker so I just use that now.

Best thing about bitsbox is they are cheap arses so will package a small Jiffy bag like a Tetris game so it always goes through your letter box when you’re out. No going down the delivery office to speak to the resident trolls.

[Howardlong]

Cross-edit didn’t arrive quick enough. You’re rigt it is tripad.

[trys]

Just went into my local Maplin to buy a mono jack socket to discover they are now offering the components, complete with the component racks as a job lot. The cheapest was about £28, but was full of potentiometers. Pretty decent looking racks.

Also the large cable reels (all different cable types) have been sealed up in cellophane and offered at 80% off.

This was just before closing time today.

I only bought the stuff I went in for today though!

[Howardlong]

https://www.bitsbox.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=238_244&products_id=2843

Bitsbox are pretty good. If you want mid-range components next day for a low delivery fee they do a damn good job.

More info on the Euro card sized board. It’s Vero part number 10-3200, Maplin A66RL. Its desciption on the verotl.com website erroneously describes it as 160 x 10 mm rather than 160 x 100 mm.

Unfortunately, it’s bloody expensive when ordered direct.

http://www.verotl.com/en/product/veroboard-tripad-board-160mm-x-10mm-10-3200.-maplin-a66rl

[bd139]

Problem with these is they're all SRBP. Some random alternatives I've been using:

If you must have a stripboard of some variety, these are pretty good although not tripad: https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/stripboards/5185932/ ... I built a UV exposure panel with one of those boards and a few audio filters. Nice to work with and stupidly strong. Example (who said you can't get dense stripboard layouts ). 600Hz CW filter...



However I just use matrix board for digital prototypes. A pack of these last forever: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B073ZHVKC1/ ... all FR4 plated through holes. Work for SMD and TH stuff.

Been hand drawing SMD boards with ink resist as well. They come out pretty good if you can draw squares!

[Howardlong]

I guess we all have our habits, I’ve used the tripad board for at least 30 years, although I don’t use it quite as much as I used to now surface mount has become the standard modus operandi, where I use Busboard products nowadays quite extensively, which also offers groundplane options.

The tripad stuff is good for breaking out pigtailed connectors to solderless breadboard, using the board as a mezzanine between the cable and 0.1” header.

[trys]

Howard,

You might have luck if you ring up Radio Shack (yes, bizarre, I know) in Lytham St Annes on 01253 714464. They have new old stock form the days of Tandy. 47 St Anne's Rd W, Lytham Saint Annes FY8 1SB

He's got quite a few PCB types there, last time I went in there (a couple of weeks ago).

Trys

[Cerebus]

I guess we all have our habits, I’ve used the tripad board for at least 30 years, although I don’t use it quite as much as I used to now surface mount has become the standard modus operandi, where I use Busboard products nowadays quite extensively, which also offers groundplane options.

The tripad stuff is good for breaking out pigtailed connectors to solderless breadboard, using the board as a mezzanine between the cable and 0.1” header.

Wondering slightly off topic:-

Getting PCBs made in China is now so cheap that it can actually be cheaper to buy a custom PCB than a general purpose prototyping board. I've been thinking of running up some designs for prototyping boards, possibly including features that aren't available on commercial prototyping boards, and getting a batch or two made. 

By way of example, getting 10 off 100mm x 100mm boards made, and shipped standard airmail comes to $16.36 USD total (100mm x 100mm is a bit of a 'magic' size in Chinese PCB fab pricing). FR4 prototyping boards tend to come in at around the £5 GBP mark each for 100mm x 160mm boards.

If ones personal favourite type of prototyping board either gets difficult to get, gets too pricey, or is just missing that one feature one would love to have, this might be a viable route.

[Ian.M]

Yes, that's worth a thought.   Tripad with a groundplane on the other side, (with clearance round the holes in the groundplane so a normal component lead or even a turned pin socket doesn't short to ground unless you make a top-side solder blob) would be nice for general purpose use.   
Perhaps a topic on getting protoboards fabbed would be a good idea. . . . .

[mikeselectricstuff]

Wondering slightly off topic:-

Getting PCBs made in China is now so cheap that it can actually be cheaper to buy a custom PCB than a general purpose prototyping board.

My thoughts exactly  - I did these a few years ago, and sell enough to others that the ones I use are basically free
http://whitewing.co.uk/protoboard.html

[bd139]

I have thought about this as well actually. JLCPCB are doing 10x 10x10cm boards for $15 which puts it in the right price range for protoboards too.

I was going to do some with a ground plane brought up through vias periodically, pads set up for SOIC+0805 parts, with one edge with 3 edge launched SMA connectors, M3 mounting holes and exposed grounded strips so you can solder shielding on if required (or use as a ground bus)

[CJay]

Yes, that's worth a thought.   Tripad with a groundplane on the other side, (with clearance round the holes in the groundplane so a normal component lead or even a turned pin socket doesn't short to ground unless you make a top-side solder blob) would be nice for general purpose use.   
Perhaps a topic on getting protoboards fabbed would be a good idea. . . . .

You might want to check out Dartec then, they offer RF prototyping boards that are similar but single pad, easy enough to deal with though/

[bd139]

Do the pads lift on them easily? I found that with Roth boards which are similar albeit no ground plane on the other side.

[Ian.M]

Nope, single pad is a PITA for through hole work - without PTH they lift off too easily and *EVERY* connection has to be solder/wire bridged to another pad.   Tripad hit the sweet spot - you only have to bridge nodes with more than three connections, and its *FAR* easier to keep the pads in place as there's far more surface area holding them and you can solder one end before the other heats up too much

[tggzzz]

Nope, single pad is a PITA for through hole work - without PTH they lift off too easily and *EVERY* connection has to be solder/wire bridged to another pad.   Tripad hit the sweet spot - you only have to bridge nodes with more than three connections, and its *FAR* easier to keep the pads in place as there's far more surface area holding them and you can solder one end before the other heats up too much

Easier still is manhattan over a solid groundplane - easier floor planning and often better HF performance.

[bd139]

Yes definitely. I like Manhattan. That works pretty well. I'd like to find an easy way to cut strips of FR4 off though. At the moment I'm score and snap, then cut chunks off as required with some Wiss shears.

One of my crimes (generic 40m DC RX. Big space on the board is where the audio filter lives now)

[tggzzz]

Yes definitely. I like Manhattan. That works pretty well. I'd like to find an easy way to cut strips of FR4 off though. At the moment I'm score and snap, then cut chunks off as required with some Wiss shears.

Tin snips, e.g. the first google result: https://www.ffx.co.uk/tools/product/Gilbow-Gil2458-0734442188049-G245-Straight-Tinsnip-8In

The board gets a bit bent, but that doesn't matter.

[bd139]

I’ve got some Wiss straight aviation shears but they make a bit of a mess of long cuts.

[CJay]

Nope, single pad is a PITA for through hole work - without PTH they lift off too easily and *EVERY* connection has to be solder/wire bridged to another pad.   Tripad hit the sweet spot - you only have to bridge nodes with more than three connections, and its *FAR* easier to keep the pads in place as there's far more surface area holding them and you can solder one end before the other heats up too much

Agree it's a pain, my advice was to check them out and see if they offer similar, apologies I wasn't as clear as I could have been.

As for HF stuff, yes, Manhattan/Ugly works really well and is my choice too.

[Howardlong]

Nope, single pad is a PITA for through hole work - without PTH they lift off too easily and *EVERY* connection has to be solder/wire bridged to another pad.   Tripad hit the sweet spot - you only have to bridge nodes with more than three connections, and its *FAR* easier to keep the pads in place as there's far more surface area holding them and you can solder one end before the other heats up too much

Easier still is manhattan over a solid groundplane - easier floor planning and often better HF performance.

My preference is still ground plane typpe Busboard over Manhattan style.

I would add that I agree aviation sheers are useful for odd small bits of board, plus if you can run to it, a proper guillotine-style PCB shear. I've had my shear for about 15 years, I use it once or twice a month on average for board cutting, not for production, just for odd prototypes, it shows no signs of wear.

I like the idea of doing a run for my own boards, I'll probably add some breakouts too.

[mikeselectricstuff]

Nope, single pad is a PITA for through hole work - without PTH they lift off too easily and *EVERY* connection has to be solder/wire bridged to another pad.   Tripad hit the sweet spot - you only have to bridge nodes with more than three connections, and its *FAR* easier to keep the pads in place as there's far more surface area holding them and you can solder one end before the other heats up too much

Agree it's a pain, my advice was to check them out and see if they offer similar, apologies I wasn't as clear as I could have been.

As for HF stuff, yes, Manhattan/Ugly works really well and is my choice too.

I've never understood the point of single-pad proto boards/areas - the whole point of a PCB is connection.

[trys]

I've never understood the point of single-pad proto boards/areas - the whole point of a PCB is connection.

No, nor have I. I'm wondering if I'm missing out on something.

[bd139]

Main advantage is you can get a pretty tight layout.

[CJay]

Single pad boards allow you to 'define' your own PCB, you place your components and then wire them point to point, a bit like wirewrap with soldered connections I suppose...

Once you've got it working you can directly translate to PCB but of course it's only useful for 0.1" pitch stuff or a lashk up when you don't want a PCB.

It's largely 'dead' now with cheap PCB services, SMD parts and the availability of CNC machines but I still find it useful to 'brainstorm' before PCB or lash up a quick and dirty project that will be used once...

The RF boards from Dartec work really nicely and lend themselves well to HF radio stuff but I tend to build most things 'ugly' now to prove concept.

Tri-Pad works nicely if you want a more 'traditional' halfway from single to strip...