General > General Technical Chat
Murphy’s Law with my OBD2 reader
PlainName:
Yep, IME scrappies don't care about condition, just bung it on the scales and pay per pound kilo. Last time I did this they couldn't even be bothered to take the batteries out of the large box I carted them in, so I got some cardboard weight thrown in as well :)
bdunham7:
--- Quote from: edy on January 12, 2023, 06:26:02 pm ---Any suggestions?
--- End quote ---
The K24 Honda engines are very easy to start and the Mitsuba PM gear reduction starters typically will tell you if they are going bad by making noise. So if your battery is struggling to crank your CR-V in anything other than Arctic temperatures, it is in pretty bad shape. Take the $20.
edy:
I bought the new battery last week (Jan 12) but did not actually install it. I drove around for almost the whole week on the old battery, car started ok but after 2-3 days (around Jan 15) it threw that same "Check Engine P0314" code immediately on startup. Seems like cranking an engine on a weak battery caused some misfire that the sensors picked up on. Anyways, I drove around until today with "Check Engine" light on but the car still starting (battery not completely dead) and driving fine. I decided I did enough testing, so I put in the new battery.... And immediately upon starting the car after installing the new battery the "Check Engine" light cleared!
I'm not sure how the computer handles error code checking but I assume the moment the test completed ok, it cleared the code? I thought it takes a bunch of "ok" tests or driving cycles until it clears and therefore once a problem is detected, even when fixed it doesn't go away for a few days? Was it a coincidence that as soon as the new battery went in, the "Check Engine" light turned off?
Anyways, I thought it was interesting that this entire thing started with a weak battery. Meanwhile, while all this was going on, my tire inflator "nipple" also broke so it wasn't able to inflate a slowly-leaking tire I've been monitoring over the past few years (because the "nipple" couldn't push on the valve pin on the tire to open it up). I fixed that by buying a cheap valve-less "extension" that quick-connects onto the tire. Then after I successfully inflated the tire, the next day it was almost flat... normally it would last a few months before needing inflation again. I ran to a tire shop and turns out it was a leak around the rim (cheap fix), most likely due to salt-corrosion or hitting some potholes. I hope this puts my car issues behind for a while. I intend to drive my 2011 Honda CR-V until they ban gasoline. It only has 80,000 km/50,000 miles on it. According to the Honda dealer website they should last until 250,000-300,000 miles. At this rate, it should get me to 2071!!! (it will outlast me!) :-DD
sokoloff:
I’d say you have a good shot. Our 2005 CR-V just turned over 225K miles at 80 mph in the middle of a 1500 Christmas road trip. Rust from New England salt will kill ours before the mechanicals go bad.
edy:
I started more tests on my old battery now that it’s out of the vehicle and debating whether to return it for $20 or keep it as a portable/emergency energy source. I have a charger and 600W inverter and want to know what I can expect out of it (it’s a 51R size).
I hooked up a 25W bulb for a few hours and it barely made a noticeable difference in voltage (battery went from 12V down to 11.8 or so). Then I plugged in my laptop (which no longer has a usable battery) so it ran only off the power supply which is rated 90W (19V x 4.74A max) but the inverter was telling me it was using 45W. That also lasted an hour or two and then the “E01” low voltage error appeared, battery was getting close to 10V.
I unplugged the laptop and plugged in a 120V desk lamp (which uses an LED bulb for regular light socket) and the battery voltage recovered and it’s still going. So it can handle a few W for now for lightning, charging phones, etc. I’m going to charge up the battery again and try some more loads to see how long I can run it and how useful it would actually be for emergency or portable energy situations.
One thing I noticed was that this setup will not be ideal for me to use in the field for radio reception on my laptop (using a RTL-SDR USB radio dongle/antenna). Any noise from power supply, whether plugged into wall or to inverter, introduces noise into my radio reception. When I run the laptop off the internal LiIon battery the noise floor is significantly lower and I can hear better signals on a long-wire strung between trees.
[UPDATE:]
It's been some time for me to do some more testing.... Charged up the battery fully to 12.5V, then started a timer and was able to power my older ASUS laptop (which has no battery) on a 19V power adapter for about 5 hours until the battery voltage dropped under the threshold of the inverter (~10.5V). So this battery is a keeper. :-+ Now time to keep an eye again on the new battery in the car and see if it's charging well enough as that could have been another factor.
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