| General > General Technical Chat |
| Ot: Dishwashers |
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| mag_therm:
Firstly, the family is trained to rinse all the solids off in the sink (despite public advice not to) before loading Secondly, the main problem here is then , with the common USA brand of dishwasher I use, the blue inlet solenoid valves. The fill level is determined only by a fixed timer on the board. The float switch is just in series with the solenoid to prevent flooding when the valve sticks open. Over time , especially in winter, the valves admit less and less water during the fill time. Then dishwasher problems start. The valves are about $75, and I have 2 dishwashers here, and replace them every 5 to 10 years. So I need to replace these valves periodically The design is the same, tamperproof. Part of the design problem of sticking, I think, is low inrush so they can use the smallest drivers/relays on the board. But the mounting holes and orientation and price of the valves are changed model- by model. |
| madires:
Powder can cause streaks on glass depending on the dishwasher. Some are more prone than others. |
| Alex Eisenhut:
Maybe they should make a Pez dispenser with Alec's head to dispense pods... Anyway, I usually just wash up by hand with a 3M sponge, which are the best. I rarely use my dishwasher, only when I got lazy and let stuff accumulate. I guess the same pod vs powder logic applies to washing machines. The machines also have a pre-wash cycle. |
| ConKbot:
Ive found that for cleaning a dishwasher, citric acid is fantastic (cheap, and pretty useful for other stuff around the house) My dishwasher was leaving soap residue on everything until I ran a cycle with a dispenser full of ctiric acid powder. With most soaps being basic, obviously this is going to help with the residues, plus it is very hungry for metal ions, so if there is hard-water build up (calcium, magnesium carbonate) get consumed into water soluble calcium/magnesium citrates. But I live in an apartment with a cheap garbage tier dishwasher, with only a spraybar at the bottom and that telescopes up to shoot a jet at the domed top of the machine. No middle spraybar with its own water feed from the back, and certainly not a 3rd one at the top. I'm pretty sure the rinse-aid dispenser doesn't work, but I'm certainly not going to nag at maintenance over that at the moment, as I'm not that picky about the glassware being 100% spot free, and I'll just clean it every two months to keep it from being excessive. Other uses: Descaling faucet aerators and shower heads. Passivation of stainless steel. I.e. my stainless vacuum coffee mug or the decanter on my drip coffee maker after cleaning. Cleaning any sort of spots, be it soap or mineral buildup on bathroom or kitchen sink hardware. a 10 lb/4.5 kilo bag for $25 goes a long way. I first learned about it after picking up soapmaking as a lockdown hobby. The in-situ formation of sodium citrate still performs the same function of bonding onto calcium/magnesium ions, keeping hard water from making insoluble/less soluble calcium and magnesium soaps, i.e. soapscum. |
| Halcyon:
--- Quote from: coppercone2 on December 23, 2020, 02:27:35 pm ---a con is you need to pour god damn powder into some bull shit that is 6 inches off the ground instead of putting in a solid object into a slot --- End quote --- That depends on the machine, most modern machines don't have the tablet "slot" at the front of the top tray anymore. They say to put the tablet into the same compartment as the powder. There is literally no difference in many machines. The only difference is, user laziness and the perception of being "more convenient" for which I call bullshit. |
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