Sure, no problem.
The circuit being rather... amorphous, is more a curse than a blessing, I would say. They tend to end up like hairballs -- unserviceable. If you try to keep it flat and flexible (say using stranded wire to join rigid sections), well now the sections can flap around and short out. Obviously, some kind of fixturing would be helpful. (Wouldn't it be great if we wove everything around an insulating board or something?

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It's also useless for any kind of bandwidth. An audio amplifier is probably okay. A switching supply is probably not. Digital logic, who knows. Microcontrollers, wouldn't bet on it -- a small thing will probably work, sure, but how much can you hang off it before it starts going bonkers?
The next step up, I suppose, is pad-per-hole or strip board, whatever kind you like. Still free-form and lacking ground, but at least the board and holes enforce some structure -- if you don't cram things together, it stands a good chance of being serviced. You can draw extended grounds around signal routes, if you don't mind wasting a lot of solder and board area. You can also get the stuff with ground plane, which is very attractive actually (if you take the time to look for it -- it's a somewhat unusual variety and probably more expensive).
The step after that, is probably dead bug and such. Dead bug I think refers more to gluing down DIPs and hanging components off them. I never liked this exact method. It leaves too much height off the plane, the pinouts are confusing, you can't read the part numbers, and you don't have much way to make new nodes.
An easy improvement is Manhattan style: cut small chits of copper clad and solder or glue them down. Free tie point, insulated from the plane, and at a regular height above it. You can even stack them in multiple levels (as the name suggests, like Manhattan skyscrapers); though that tends to get fiddly.
Finally, you can go full proto and cut traces out of copper clad, directly. I like to use a utility blade, making two angled strokes to cut a shallow v-groove. Others like to use abrasive saws, burrs, end mills, engravers, or, if you happen to have the luxury of an engraving mill you can make full on layouts. A small drill bit (preferably carbide -- use a drill press!) can drill holes to solder or swage copper wire or rivets, making vias to the back side ground plane.
Even more advanced, I suppose, you can make multilayer boards of sorts, by laying down polyimide tape for insulation, then copper tape for traces. It's solderable, at least on top (the adhesive tends to be a bit annoying). Cut holes in the tape layers to expose solderable metal. Tape over anything you don't want soldered. The components on such construction are quite accessible (well, assuming you haven't buried any chip components in the stack!), but beware if you ever have to dig into the stack...yeah.
Not fine pitch, the adhesive isn't that strong. But the broad traces of this method do lend themselves well to high current switching applications.
Somewhere between these techniques, you'll find it's handy to use a mix of THT and SMT parts -- you can string an axial resistor between relatively distant pads, while you can place chip components between adjacent pads, whether cut into the board, or islands Manhattan-style.
Tim