General > General Technical Chat
Post a picture of your Fuse Box
SeanB:
--- Quote from: PlainName on January 24, 2023, 04:58:48 pm ---What's to stop some random yob flicking your power off for the lolz?
--- End quote ---
Normally there is a locked box, with the only entry needing either tools or a key, and a small window in the plastic to read the meter. There will also be a push rod there, specifically to allow the 80A breaker in the box to be reset, but not allowing it to be tripped.
PlainName:
OK, just that a key in things like this tend to be the same as every other box, and once some engineer (or fire person) has passed his around they're relatively easy to come by. Sure, they put off most opportunists, but the sort of yob that would do this is the sort that would seek out a master key. Just like those that think using a DIY IR transmitter to turn off every TV in a shop is cool.
themadhippy:
--- Quote --- Just like those that think using a DIY IR transmitter to turn off every TV in a shop is cool.
--- End quote ---
but not as cool as capturing the free play code for the pubs juke box on your watch
Miyuki:
--- Quote from: PlainName on January 24, 2023, 04:58:48 pm ---
--- Quote ---required to have even the meter and main breaker/switch accessible from the street
--- End quote ---
What's to stop some random yob flicking your power off for the lolz?
--- End quote ---
They are just for a common "key"/tool to open them
But people just don't touch them
It is against the law to have the main switch and valve for gas and water locked.
(Yes we once do turn off the water in our elementary school ;D and it was big, with parents involved and so)
But people just don't touch it
Probably good old :box: explanation and common sense is still present
We are in Europe, it just works this way here
The tool, but you can use a flathead or anything to open them
AlbertL:
--- Quote from: T3sl4co1l on October 07, 2022, 06:57:37 am ---McMaster has it as "Multipurpose Flame-Retardant Garolite G-10/FR4 Sheets and Bars". Used 1/16" (1.6mm) stock. It has a glossy finish so needs a lot of sanding, annoying.
I probably would've used copper clad, ;D but decided against it, between the high currents and needing a bit more strength. And against using aluminum panel for the same reason. Don't want unfused battery going loose and blowing something up.
The barrier strip is only rated 30A so I "doubled up" by adding the copper bus bar on top. Feels not terrible.
--- End quote ---
Another insulating board material you might consider is GPO-3. It's widely used in US electrical switchgear and is available in a variety of thicknesses.
https://www.curbellplastics.com/Research-Solutions/Materials/GPO-3-Thermoset
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