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| Problem with rigol scope knob |
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| Bored@Work:
--- Quote from: Simon on October 28, 2010, 12:44:12 pm ---right so the bouncing issue is down to failure of the mechanics of the switch/knob --- End quote --- No, all mechanical switches bounce. And bouncing behavior can change over time, which is not a failure per-se. If there is no proper debouncing it is a design failure - typical mechanical switch behavior hasn't been taken into account. |
| Feanor:
I've seen this too, brand new switches and knobs are great you could clock your PC off the nice clean edges that they produce, a few months later and the wave form they produce looks like a lunar landscape. You could probably check this with your oscilloscope! I am laughing just picturing the scene now. Debugging a faulty scope with said faulty scope. |
| kderh:
OK after my horizontal scale knob became totally random I decided to open the scope and clean the encoder, and now it works much better than before as it skips very rarely now. If someone wants to try this here are some tips: -Heat up the warranty seal with a regular hair blower, then you can peel it off without damaging it -There are 2 screws under the carrying handle -Do not touch the 2 screws next to the power socket for now, remove them later. -To get the power switch out of the way, simply pull it out with pliers. -Wiggle the back case around until it comes off -Remove the other shielding elements (back, top) -Remove all the front knob caps ( just pull them off) -Remove the power supply as there is an additional screw behind it that holds the front panel -Disconnect the input board by lifting the white flex cable off the main board -Remove the other screws holding the front panel, then you can take it off -Remove the input board (careful with the flex cable) -Desolder the bad encoder and lift the 4 hinges on all sides to open it (or just replace it with a new one) -Clean all contacts inside (I used a Q-tip) -Reassemble the encoder, solder it in and reassemble the whole unit This worked for me, hope it stays this way for some time... Mechanical encoders suck... |
| saturation:
Great job, kderh, all you need are pictures and this is a perfect hack/fix. --- Quote from: kderh on November 26, 2010, 09:35:43 am ---OK after my horizontal scale knob became totally random I decided to open the scope and clean the encoder, and now it works much better than before as it skips very rarely now. If someone wants to try this here are some tips: -Heat up the warranty seal with a regular hair blower, then you can peel it off without damaging it -There are 2 screws under the carrying handle -Do not touch the 2 screws next to the power socket for now, remove them later. -To get the power switch out of the way, simply pull it out with pliers. -Wiggle the back case around until it comes off -Remove the other shielding elements (back, top) -Remove all the front knob caps ( just pull them off) -Remove the power supply as there is an additional screw behind it that holds the front panel -Disconnect the input board by lifting the white flex cable off the main board -Remove the other screws holding the front panel, then you can take it off -Remove the input board (careful with the flex cable) -Desolder the bad encoder and lift the 4 hinges on all sides to open it (or just replace it with a new one) -Clean all contacts inside (I used a Q-tip) -Reassemble the encoder, solder it in and reassemble the whole unit This worked for me, hope it stays this way for some time... Mechanical encoders suck... --- End quote --- |
| wd5gnr:
Well I got mine apart... encoder removed (vacuum really helps), cleaned, and resoldered. Now I'm about to put it back together. Wish me luck. Thanks for the steps ;-) Bah! I got it back together enough to try it and it is no better (then again no worse). When I took the encoder apart, there was a membrane type switch in a green plastic frame and a white plastic ring on top with some position pins. The black part had a spinning disk of sorts. I used contact cleaner on both parts and scrubbed with a Q-tip. It didn't look like that I expected, but what do I know. I'm debating if I want to take it apart again -- its a pain -- and try again. It appears to be an ALPS encoder -- does anyone have a source? I'm guessing its from this series: http://www.alps.com/WebObjects/catalog.woa/E/PDF/Switch/Encoder/EC11/EC11.PDF but would need a place that sells reasonable quantities. Measurement wise the body is 12.5mm wide and 14mm tall. Shaft is 6mm in diameter. 14.4mm from the tip to the bottom of the body and 5mm shaft length. Digikey has: http://www.bitechnologies.com/pdfs/en12.pdf - 17.5mm reach bit 5,, shaft length. Maybe trim the shaft a bit. There were 3 "12mm" encoders with switches so I think I'll order all 3 and see how they might fit. The are only a couple of bucks each. P12336-ND 987-1194-ND 987-1195-ND 1 of each is less than $5 total. Sigh.... |
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