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| Rechargable vs. Non-Rechargable Batteries - AA/AAA Size |
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| Miti:
I started using rechargeable batteries in everything that doesn't get lost or goes hiding (such as kids toys) for a very long time. Wireless keyboards and mice, remote controls, flash lights, cameras, RC remote, etc. My preferred ones were Powerex (always bought on sale from Canada Computers) for high current applications such as flash lights, and Eneloop for low discharge such as remote controls and wireless mice. One annoying thing about Powerex is that any drop or shock, would increase the self discharge current ten folds. Maybe being high capacity, the separator is very thin and it gets damaged by shock. Once I discovered Ikea Ladda, I was super happy with them and I started replacing Powerex ones everywhere. Eneloops still go strong in all the devices I put them but I don't buy new anymore. I jut bought two sets of the new Ikea Ladda model (green-ish with white text) and they seem to be the same product as the old ones (white with black text). The price is $8.99 CAD, plus 13% HST is $10.16, that makes it $2.54 a piece. Not bad at all! They have the same weight, size, perfectly identical voltage out of the box, etc. I expect to have the same low self discharge but that's TBD. I can see the package being cheaper, they are packed in paper rather than in plastic blisters, but I don't know why they changed the colors, maybe it's just a commercial gimmick. |
| Halcyon:
So I ended up buying some Energiser "Ultimate Lithium" AA's for my keyboard and mouse. They work great in the mouse but the keyboard refuses to power on. Measuring the voltage, the new lithium batteries measure 1.8 volts each, which seems quite high. I'm guessing the keyboard is expecting a maximum of around 3 volts, not 3.6? |
| Berni:
Yeah the lithium AAs are a bit high in voltage compared to a regular alkaline AA. Usually products don't care and work fine, but there are exeptions. Tho battery charge indicators will be wrong. For example my Agilent handheld DMM has a setting for selecting lithium batteries, so that the battery gauge icon in the corner shows the correct charge remaining (It just looks at open circuit voltage, so the voltage curve is important). But this is a very rare feature on products. Tho even normal AAs are a bit higher than 1.5V when brand new but quickly drop back down. You might be able to discharge those lithium in the mouse and swap them over into the keyboard once there voltage dropped enugh. Or open up the keyboard and add a diode in series with the battery to drop the extra 0.6V |
| beanflying:
--- Quote from: Halcyon on July 22, 2021, 04:10:58 am ---So I ended up buying some Energiser "Ultimate Lithium" AA's for my keyboard and mouse. They work great in the mouse but the keyboard refuses to power on. Measuring the voltage, the new lithium batteries measure 1.8 volts each, which seems quite high. I'm guessing the keyboard is expecting a maximum of around 3 volts, not 3.6? --- End quote --- Also watch using the Lithium's in multimeters. There was a chunk of discussion in one of the 121GW threads in particular. |
| peter-h:
The main issue is that rechargeable batteries have a lower cell voltage (1.2V for NICD/NIMH, 1.4V for Eneloops) than primary ones (1.5-1.6V) and most products have their "battery status" detection set up for the latter. That's why Eneloops are much better in practice. But most products still end up wasting much of their capacity, by premature "empty battery" detection. If somebody came up with a rechargeable battery which is 1.5V they would clean up. |
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