Show your Multimeter!

[joeqsmith]

wow, when I was a kid I had that same electronics kit that Joe posted a picture of.  I do remember the book that came with it... wish I still had it today!

Someone scanned it and made it available.  Here's one link.
http://www.zpag.net/Electroniques/Kit/160_manual.pdf

[AaronLee]

wow, when I was a kid I had that same electronics kit that Joe posted a picture of.  I do remember the book that came with it... wish I still had it today!

I often dreamed of being able to buy that one. The one I had was only 65-in-1. Looking at the catalog of the 160-in-1 with the "fancy" integrated circuit, and thinking of what circuits might be possible with that, but never had the chance to actually try one out. These days I guess the kids use Arduinos and the like, along with various sensors, modules, etc.

I noticed those kits are available on Ebay. I assume mine was long ago donated to the thrift shop by my mother, as I never saw it after finishing university. Perhaps one day, just for kicks, I'll buy one of the 160-in-1 kits and build the circuits I never could as a kid.

I had its predecessor, the 150-in-1 in the late 70s and got a lot of enjoyment from it. If memory serves, over time I pilfered a lot of the components from it for later projects and at some point it went out with the trash.  Rat Shack had a lot of engaging stuff back in the day, between the XX-in-1 experimenter's sets and things like their P-box kits and the other Archer Kit stuff.  Then they devolved into a cell phone store.  Shame.

-Pat

If the 150-in-1 was from the late 70's, then that's the same as what I was thinking of. When I was typing my reply, I thought 160-in-1 didn't sound right, but the picture of it, at least with the integrated circuit seemed like what I remembered. Now I realize there was a more advanced one that came out later, after I lost interest in those kits, and started making real circuits.

Yes, I used to make a trip to Radio Shack every weekend when I was a kid. After not visiting one for many decades, I was shocked to see it turned into a cell phone store without anything at all I'd be interested in anymore.

[basinstreetdesign]

This isn't my daily driver but it works just fine.  Now, anyways.  I re-wired it: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/where-can-i-get-triplett-vom-model-1200-f-data/msg2388165/#msg2388165

[rsjsouza]

This isn't my daily driver but it works just fine.  Now, anyways.  I re-wired it: https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/where-can-i-get-triplett-vom-model-1200-f-data/msg2388165/#msg2388165

Great job! I just repaired a radio from my grandfather and can sympathize with your last statement on that post: keeping everything original is a herculean task indeed.

[Robert763]

Too many to photograph
Model    Make       Description
89 V            Fluke   50,000 count, logging
8060 (x3)  Fluke   41/2 digit wideband TRMS
8022A    Fluke   31/2 digit
8022B    Fluke   31/2 digit
8062    Fluke   41/2 digit wideband TRMS
11           Fluke   31/2 digit
16           Fluke   31/2 digit
25           Fluke   31/2 digit Rugged
8920a   Fluke   HF Thermal RMS
8922a   Fluke   HF Thermal RMS
97            Fluke        Scopemeter
7071   Solartron   71/2 digit high precision
7150   Solartron   61/2 digit
7040   Solartron   31/2 digit
7075 (x2)Solartron   71/2 digit
4600   Racal   41/2 digit
5001   Racal   51/2 digit
4008   Racal   31/2 digit
3403C   HP          4 digit Thermal RMS
3400A   HP          Analog Thermal RMS
3476B   HP          31/2 digit
E2373A   HP         31/2 digit
34970A   HP         DMM 6.5 Logger
PM2505   Philips    FET analog
EM272   Avo         Analog
SA9803   BT         Analog
Super 50   Selectest   Analog
BM80   Megger   Insulation tester / Voltmeter.

That's not counting clampmeters, installation testers, specialist single function meters, component / LCR meters etc.

[Shock]

The thread is not called "list your multimeters"

[Cubdriver]

The thread is not called "list your multimeters"

Touché!   

-Pat

[rogerggbr]

7150, already replaced the backlight LEDs, recently fixed (faulty bridge rectifier) and removed dodgy looking mains filter

[H.O]

Stumbled across this photo of mine from a couple of years ago. Thought it might fit this thread.
The DM3068 I bought new in 2013 and hasn't been calibrated/adjusted since it left the factory. The 34970A I bought used (obviously) in 2018, I have no information on its age or its calibration history. Here it's measuring the voltage via a 34901A multiplexer card.

[shakalnokturn]

The thread is not called "list your multimeters"

So I'd have to choose one to show?! That topic title needs changing...

[THDplusN_bad]

[..]

Pro-tip: don't keep alkaline batteries in your expensive test equipment! A leaky $1 battery can RUIN a fancy $380 multimeter. Use NiMH rechargeables or lithium primary (non-rechargeable) batteries as these have a better track record.

[..]

Amen! Recently, I had to completely replace the battery contacts and all the wiring in an (expensive) Audio meter - after cleaning up all the mess the leaking batteries had left. Neutralized the crusty traces with baking soda followed by a distilled water rinse. I *hate* leaking batteries and the fact that new cells from so-called "quality brands" are beginning to leak after 12 months or so...  

[Cubdriver]

[..]

Pro-tip: don't keep alkaline batteries in your expensive test equipment! A leaky $1 battery can RUIN a fancy $380 multimeter. Use NiMH rechargeables or lithium primary (non-rechargeable) batteries as these have a better track record.

[..]

Amen! Recently, I had to completely replace the battery contacts and all the wiring in an (expensive) Audio meter - after cleaning up all the mess the leaking batteries had left. Neutralized the crusty traces with baking soda followed by a distilled water rinse. I *hate* leaking batteries and the fact that new cells from so-called "quality brands" are beginning to leak after 12 months or so...

If your alkaline batteries leak, you need to neutralize the resultant crust with a mild acid - something like vinegar - remember that they’re alkaline batteries; the residue is basic, not acidic.  “Battery acid” is so ingrained that many (me included up til a few years ago) that the automatic reaction is “leaked battery - grab the baking soda!” without realizing that the battery chemistry’s right in the name.

-Pat

[figurativelythedevil]

Restoring this old Keithley! Hoping to be done soon, then off to cal! Imgur album for a bunch more photos https://imgur.com/gallery/EIEn2nP

[THDplusN_bad]

Hi Pat,

I found that the mildly abrasive mechanical effect and the "buffering" chemical properties of baking soda have served me well over many years of servicing and repairing electronics. I would not want to use a 5% vinegar acid for neutralizing leaked battery crusts in my repairs. But your mileage may vary...

Hello figurativelythedevil,
good luck for your repair! I can see its predecessor, a Keithley type 195 DMM if I just look over my left shoulder at my desk.
These are good, solid DMMs, if you can live with the brown case and its overall looks 

Cheers,

THDplusN_bad

[GlennSprigg]

I have dry skin, and way-back, I originally tested 'live' (power) connections with the back of my fingers!!!   

Although that's true, I just want to say that people should not forget about usage of certain 'old-fashioned' analog
meters! There are many times where a 'dampened' needle is needed, instead of a fluctuating digital read-out, that is
hard to follow. And, depending on the 'Meters' actual "Ohms-perVolt", affects the actual 'Load' if any, or actually creating
one when it is actually needed!!  Also, regarding RF interference, I've seen 'Digital' devices/meters/indicators that have
gone berserk when close by transmitters like 'Walkie-Talkies' are in use!!!  Keep the 'old-stuff' at hand !!   

[David Hess]

I have dry skin, and way-back, I originally tested 'live' (power) connections with the back of my fingers!!!

Also not recommended, but sometimes I will grip the common test lead on my multimeter, and use the other lead to probe AC line voltages to I can measure the voltages to earth ground.  This is very handy for distinguishing hot from neutral.

[gamalot]

I guess my next handheld multimeter will be brown or purple. 

[rudio]

I'd like to resume this thread and report very good news for all owners of a ICE680G or R.
To my surprise, the manufacturer still seems to exist. https://www.icericambi.it/ A lot of new spares for the instruments are offered. The pages are written in italian language, but the Google translator might help us:
https://www-icericambi-it.translate.goog/?_x_tr_sl=it&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=de&_x_tr_pto=ajax,elem

cheers  Rudi

[Neomys Sapiens]

I'd like to resume this thread and report very good news for all owners of a ICE680G or R.
To my surprise, the manufacturer still seems to exist. https://www.icericambi.it/ A lot of new spares for the instruments are offered. The pages are written in italian language, but the Google translator might help us:
https://www-icericambi-it.translate.goog/?_x_tr_sl=it&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=de&_x_tr_pto=ajax,elem

cheers  Rudi

I've had an ICE 680R about 20 years ago - I did not recall that it had a buzzer. So there are quite different variants. A pity that they don't support my beloved Microtest80 anymore - but understandable in the times of CAT ratings and nanny-stateism.

[Calambres]

I bought my beloved ICE 680R model IV in the late '70s and it is still alive'n'kicking   I use it quite often.

This is good news because as much as it is a top notch tester, the probes are so-so and tend to break with use.

[EDIT] Added the model number and picture.

[rsjsouza]

I still have the ICE 680R that my dad bought in early 1980s and I used in my early days of electronics - it needs some cleaning on its internals, but it still works. The probes' wires crapped out in the 1990s and my dad replaced the wires and reused the tips (hard to find in pre-internet era).

I've had an ICE 680R about 20 years ago - I did not recall that it had a buzzer. So there are quite different variants. A pity that they don't support my beloved Microtest80 anymore - but understandable in the times of CAT ratings and nanny-stateism.

Indeed there are plenty variants - I think mine was 680R model III and nowadays it is VII or VIII. Something similar to the Simpson 260 series.

[rsjsouza]

Here's most of them.

Interesting. How do you like the DP100? I wonder whether it is worth keeping on the aquisition list.

It's terrible even when it works.  I got it as a throw-in from another purchase.  At the moment it does not boot properly.  I think I have a Power problem, but it's really not worth spending the time on.  Anyone want it?

Ground_Loop, thanks again for sending it. I went through its paces and found out many issues with the multimeter: one blown MOSFET, one Schottky diode of the 5V power supply, one shorted capacitor, a loose LM393 socketed IC... It gave me material to cover in several videos on my channel (in portuguese only, sorry). The first one is here: https://youtu.be/JoOxs_ExBTE

By the way, did you ever open the meter and poked its internals? The reason is that several tantalum capacitors around the power supply and even the load ones for the XTAL seemed to have been burned by something - initially I thought they were blown, but upon closer inspection it seems the burn marks were only superficial, seemingly done by a hot tip such as a soldering iron.


Regarding the meter itself, it works very well in V_DC, I_DC and in both 2 and 4 wire resistance modes. AC modes are very slow but this can be solved by tweaking the AD727 settling time. The other issue is the frequency meter: it is very wideband (pretty much a direct input to a JFET) and any minimal noise on its inputs throw off the frequency measurement below 1MHz. Ideally it should have a settling or digital averaging filter to tame the noise.

At any rate, it was a good experience and I posted some stitched single-sheet schematics on its thread here.

[HighVoltage]

I bought my beloved ICE 680R model IV in the late '70s and it is still alive'n'kicking   I use it quite often.

This is good news because as much as it is a top notch tester, the probes are so-so and tend to break with use.

I still have my Supertester 680D
It is from the mid 80s and I bought it brand new in those days.

The cables broke also a long time ago but I installed new 2mm MC connectors with new LiFY cables.
And it still works great.

[Excavatoree]

I joked in the comments on Dave's 23 repair video that I may have one or two (or three) Fluke 23s.  Turns out I have 6.  (7 if you count the one branded "RS Components."

I thought it was interesting that some have the old logo, some have the newer one.

I do have a 23 Series 2 that also has the "Pacific Bell" added.

[retiredcaps]

Turns out I have 6.

Excavatoree is being modest ...

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/chat/anyone-want-to-challenge-excavatoree-and-his-staircase-photo-with-24-fluke-27s/msg97751/#msg97751