Alpha 3051 22AWG 7 strand. Plugs into a breadboard in a pinch, though you really want to tin it beforehand. Fits the most common crimp connectors (Molex KK, SL, "Dupont", and equivalents and etc.), handles enough amps, and everyone stocks it. Or Belden or other equivalents.
Wirewrap wire is great to have on hand, and the Kynar(R) (PVDF) insulation is firm to handle, easily stripped, and reasonably resistant to soldering, making it great for patching circuits (bodge wires).
You wouldn't usually need high temperature stuff, but silicone and Teflon(R) (PTFE) are the likely suspects there. Silicone itself is rather nice for being higher temperature than neoprene rubber, but just as (or more?) flexible.
Teflon almost always comes in silver plated form, which is nice, trivial to solder (until it gets a bit of tarnish anyway). Avoid nickel plating for soldering: it's a right pain, requiring much longer to break through the oxide layer -- or using a more aggressive flux that you'll never be able to clean out of the insulation/stranding.
Tin plating is fine for pretty much everything. It can end up unsolderable from time to time. I'm not sure exactly what it is; I've removed wire from 1960s equipment even, and had it sometimes solderable, mostly not. Could be just straight-up age (more specifically, time at temp: so, a long time at room temp, but much less in hot equipment), but there must be some effect from insulation type or impurities to also account for the variation. I've also seen only-some-years-old wire that's unsolderable.
Tin plating is probably slightly better for crimps, as the oxide is conductive, and the deformation process disrupts surface oxides anyway. Definitely better for breadboarding, for the first reason (whereas copper oxides may be rectifying to insulating).
Tim