| General > General Technical Chat |
| The "All American Five", & more dangers!! |
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| amyk:
A lot of appliances today are not that much different; plenty of them use capacitive droppers to power control electronics, so no isolation, but the outer housing and user-facing parts are nonconductive. With TVs, I believe "hot chassis" continued into the 70s and later. |
| Electro Detective:
--- Quote from: themadhippy on April 29, 2020, 05:55:36 pm --- A bigger risk than the lack of earthing in lighting circuits is the existence of the ES lamp base --- End quote --- No contest :-+ and the aussie bayonet push and twist socket isn't any better, but easier than screwing around ;D I'll bet a lot of dim bulb testers come poor mans current limiters out there, have the active line wired to the bulb socket and or bypass switch, their tinkering owners just begging to be zapped real good one day, or unattended kids messing about in the workshop sticking their finger in the socket, or curious cat, dog, or lizard sticking in the tongue FWIW and I may not be the first with the idea.. 8) but my dim bulb tester/s are wired with the confirmed Neutral, to the ES and or bayonet base, not the Active. It works the same in use afaict and little to no chance for a zap with no lamp attached, assuming that's the only item handled or touched by accident i.e. you would be touching an exposed earthed Neutral socket whilst you are earth/grounded yourself, be it on concrete, tiled floor or grounded bench/devices etc so in theory and practice, assuming everything in the mix is correctly wired, nothing should happen, not even a tingle and it's what two multimeters agreed on.. :-DMM :-DMM Add to that, for switching in the DUT in or out, that switch MUST be a double pole type, so OFF really means OFF If you play with fire and really need a no brainer OFF OFF OFF, consider an addon three pole switch to kill all three wires, placed wherever you see fit Now HONESTLY: ;D how many members here have their dim bulb testers wired with the Active 120 or 240 volt line to the socket base ? :scared: If I'm wrong about all this, please correct :-[ but 'Neutral to socket base' works for me and no dramas yet with zaps, RCD breaker trips, or current limiting performance as I've done A-B tests with flipped polarity to confirm identical performance, and no earth/neutral leakage issues passed on upstream or downstream YMMV + EMMV applies and everyones fav Disclaimer 'DO NOT try this at home, and if stupid enough to attempt it, you do so at YOUR OWN RISK' |
| Miti:
--- Quote from: Tom45 on April 27, 2020, 02:05:45 pm ---Were people tougher back then? Are people a bunch of wimps now? I'll leave that to others to decide. --- End quote --- Yes. |
| Electro Detective:
--- Quote from: Tom45 on April 27, 2020, 02:05:45 pm --- Were people tougher back then? Are people a bunch of wimps now? I'll leave that to others to decide. --- End quote --- They're wimps because the only weights they lift are smartphones, and brained to believe with all the information available at their fingertips, as well as watered down/dumbed down diplomas and qualifications, that they have more intelligence, resourcefulness and smarts than previous generations, generations who could survive and entertain themselves with bare essentials, no electricity, no batteries, no 'internet'.. zip nada etc Talk about these wimps being easy pickings for suckers and ripe for mass deception LOL, I forgot, they are already there now and clueless to it, they better ask their mate google to suss it all out for them and contribute some clever comeback replies here :palm: ;D |
| themadhippy:
--- Quote ---and the aussie bayonet push and twist socket isn't any better, but easier than screwing around --- End quote --- At least with newer, better quality BC holder's you have to physically push the pins down before you get to feel the power |
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