General > General Technical Chat
The Rigol DS1052E
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TrentO:
Okay-- so I took the cover off--

Here are some tips--

1. The power button has to come off first! I removed it by slipping a 1.5mm Allen (hex) key between the adjacent cooling slots and under the power button, then pulling straight up with a pair of pliers. It took about 18 lbs. of force to remove it.

2. There is a external-case colored shim between the power connector and the external case. Gently pry between this shim and the external case to get past it-- the shim 'stays' there on the power supply, although it's loose. I have a really big (8M-pixel) picture, if anyone wants to see it. Do not remove the screws holding the power receptacle on-- otherwise, you'll have to spend time looking for the nut that used to be on the other side for no reason. I learned this one the hard way.

3. I didn't bother trying to save the "warranty void if broken" sticker-- for $400 bucks I didn't care so much. I used a commercial product called "OOPS!" to remove the "void" residue.

It took me about 10 minutes to figure out how to get things apart, without any scratches or signs of dis-assembly, apart from ruining the warranty sticker.

As for that burnt plastic smell-- I know where it comes from! They are apparently much more aggressive with the sanding now-- the ADC's and the same IC's in the analog-section (under the shielding) have been mechanically ground off, probably with some kind of rotary (Dremel) tool. There was plastic dust EVERYWHERE! This kind of shit really pisses me off-- Couldn't they vacuum afterwards? Using just your finger, you could write your initials. Also, being the sweaty-bastard that I am, I used surgical gloves during dis-assembly. It turns out, there was "No NEED" for that-- fingerprints, again, EVERYWHERE!  Also-- super cheap assembly hardware-- screws and the like.

And now for things of importance-- any perceivable difference between my 1052E, Dave's unit, and that other guy's 1102 (who's pissed off about the (re-) soldering job.) And YES there is difference. My unit, S/N: DS1ED113907XXX looks MORE like the 1102, than Dave's 1052. If you look at the analog section in the photographs provided by Dave, there is a 4-pin SMT relay labeled "Cosmo Y214S," right next to the BNC input. On my unit, that is replaced by a bigger relay exactly like that "NEC UD2-4," not too far from it. If I recall correctly-- that other guy's 1102 also has the bigger relay. Could this be the major functional difference that we all seek? Maybe not, but it would be interesting to note when they changed this and why. Anybody have a 100Mhz function generator that I could borrow for a day?

There also seems to be a 'repair' of sorts on the LCD controller IC-- someone (with really steady hands) soldered a piece of wirewrap wire between two points on that IC, and then glued the wire to the top of the IC.

Final note: I know that $400 US is a great price for a O-scope with these capabilities and features-- but I have not seen a final assembly this bad on anything that cost more that 10 bucks. Looking at the inside of my 28-year old Tektronix, you know that dudes/chicks with white-cotton gloves put that baby together in a 'clean' environment.

Pardon me while I go and bust-out the vacuum cleaner....

-Trent "the kinda guy that would (probably) also jump out of a perfectly good airplane" O.

P.S.: Note to the Rigol dudes that are undoubtedly reading this-- pick quality-control back up-- we notice.





 
flolic:
Thanks for the tips, TrentO!
Few hi res pics of the inside would be nice, especially "canned" analog section. I will take apart my 100MHz scope when it arrive, so that we can make a comparison  ;)

Btw you can get rid of the plastic dust with the help of compressed air, DO NOT use vacuum cleaner!
TrentO:
flolic-- no vacuum cleaner, roger that. I just left it for now and put it back together. It still works.  ;D

I just used it to troubleshoot my Tektronix 2445.

I'll take it apart again for close-ups of the analog front-end, probably tonight.

I wouldn't worry about the EMS tracking thing-- It's total B.S.-- according to the USPS shipping label on the box, they got it an hour-and-a-half after it reached customs. EMS claims that customs held on to it for three days. I think someone at EMS is behind on the manual data entry.

It all worked out, but they're definitely not a FedEx, UPS, DHL, or even USPS.

Now actually having done something with it-- the fan is definitely noisy-- more so than most PC's, except for those on hi-flow-gamer CPU's. I'm also a big fan (no pun intended) of the "Modern" color-scheme/skin. And it's FAST!

Speaking of hi-flow-gamer CPU's/PC's-- I was thinking about changing that clock crystal to a 200Mhz one, and liquid-cooling that sucker....

-Trent

EEVblog:
@ TrentO
It quite amazing the difference. My unit is assembled very well indeed. No dust, no bad solder joints, no crap quality assembly hardware, no mode wires etc.
Please post the pics!

Dave.
TrentO:
Ok-- I took it down to the individual components (only requiring one de-soldering operation,) took a few photos with my crap 'point-and-shoot' Kodak, and reassembled. And it still works!  ;D ;D

Not as bad as trying to take apart an HP-48 calculator, but still, IT's NOT (necessarily) EASY!!!

Additional dis-assembly tips--

Tools you'll need-- 1. T10 Torx screwdriver  2. T15 Torx screwdriver  (both narrow shaft- not the bit-based screwdrivers) 3. Electrical tape  4. 1.5mm "L" Allen/Hex-key  5. Soldering Iron  6. Desoldering pump or braid.  7. Small pliers  8. 14mm wrench (not socket) small adjustable wrench might be okay.

Basic steps--

1. Remove front panel knobs (make a 3" loop of electrical tape, and roll into a doughnut shape, then wrap around the inner shaft of each knob, brace the top of each knob with your other hand (to ensure that the force is axial to the shaft) then pull-- it takes about 20lbs of force to pull each knob.) I would seriously recommend against simply prying the buttons off-- you'll either damage the label-face, or damage the bottom of the knob, or worse-- damage the rotary encoders themselves. Note here-- the rotary encoders appear to be consumer-grade Alps units.

2. Remove the power switch with the allen-key and pliers, via the vent adjacent to the switch. Stabilize the switch button with your other hand here, as well, to ensure that the forces are on the same axis as the motion of the switch.

3. Remove case screws (qty 4). The ones under the handle are removable with the handle held at ~45deg-- trying to remove the handle first would most likely break it.

4. While pushing in the brown-colored power receptacle bezel (LIGHT pressure,) pull the cover off. Don't pry the cover over the black power receptacle with a screwdriver-- no need to-- it will only damage the case or bezel.

5. Remove the DB-9 jack screws. Note to Rigol-dudes-- Lock-Tite (blue) might make sense here-- I hate it when the jack screw comes off with the cable!

6. Remove the back shield-panel.

7. Remove the top shield-panel.

8. Remove the Fan.

9. Remove the power supply-- for me, unplugging the power cable to the main board took the most amount of time-- it's on there pretty good. Careful with the backlight connection-- there's not much room to disconnect that cable-- a 'third hand' might be helpful here.

10. Remove the five screws holding the front panel/bezel. Careful with the rubber overlay, don't touch the contact points.

11. Desolder the chassis to USB connector ground 'strap.'

12. Unscrew the 14mm nuts holding the panel-BNC connectors.

12.5 'unplug' the flex-pcb connections to the LCD and front panel-- the back-portion of each pcb connection lifts-up.

13. Unscrew and remove the main board. There you go!  Note-- there are two empty screw holes adjacent to the vacant header-pin locations. If you 'run out' of screws, look here. I believe these are vacant to accept a daughter-card of some kind. Logic probe?

14 Reverse the above to reassemble.


Caution and warning points-- 1. ESD sensitive device!!!  2. "Swift, but gentle" motions pulling on the power button and front-panel knobs.  3. Careful not to put too much pressure on the front knobs/nubs when the unit is face-down on your workbench.  4. Careful not to scratch the LCD face with loose crap on your workbench.  5. Careful not to burn a hole in anything plastic, while playing "light-sabre" with your soldering iron.

Thumbs up to Rigol for following Tektronix's lead, and making this an essentially Torx-screw only product. That Philips-guy can bite-me... The JIS dudes can bite-me even harder.

I take no responsibility for any damage that you may incur trying to execute the above steps. I don't think Dave would either.

Personalized assistance will be available to the owners of 1102 C/D/E's in exchange for detailed photos (of the O-scope innards, NOT of yourself.)

-Trent
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