If you are in the US and you have an heater in a room, (e-g- an electric stove), it will be powered via a ridicolus plug at 120 V. The plug will overheat and a fire will start, in the standard US home built with wood.
When I was in Seattle 20 years ago, I noticed a lot of firetrucks passing by, a lot more than was usual in Europe.
My US friend said: it's normal, Christmas is coming...
That is just wrong! I can't even imagine an oven or stovetop that isn't running on 240V.
stove, noun, "A heater, a closed apparatus to burn fuel for the warming of a room."
Not a great leap to realise he's not talking about your kitchen stove.
Definition of stove (Entry 1 of 2)
1a: a portable or fixed apparatus that burns fuel or uses electricity to provide heat (as for cooking or heating)
b: a device that generates heat for special purposes (as for heating tools or heating air for a hot blast)
c: KILN
QuoteIn all of North America, the newest utility meters can turn off the power to your house without even going outside the main power stationNot just limited to america,but anywhere were smart meters are installed.However that aint the worst aspect of smart meters,with them the utility providers are now able to measure your power factor and charge accordinglyQuoteclothes dryer is probably 30A at 240V.7kw to dry yer clothes, aint you guys heard of washing lines
If you are in the US and you have an heater in a room, (e-g- an electric stove), it will be powered via a ridicolus plug at 120 V. The plug will overheat and a fire will start, in the standard US home built with wood.
When I was in Seattle 20 years ago, I noticed a lot of firetrucks passing by, a lot more than was usual in Europe.
My US friend said: it's normal, Christmas is coming...
That is just wrong! I can't even imagine an oven or stovetop that isn't running on 240V.
stove, noun, "A heater, a closed apparatus to burn fuel for the warming of a room."
Not a great leap to realise he's not talking about your kitchen stove.It never occurred to me to call a portable heater a stove. Most of the portable heaters (also called space heaters) I have seen are on the order of 1.5 kW or about 12.5 Amps. That is slightly more than a 15A breaker wants to provide on a full time basis.
Some come with 'tilt' switches to shut them down when they are turned over.
As to 'stove':
https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/stoveQuoteDefinition of stove (Entry 1 of 2)
1a: a portable or fixed apparatus that burns fuel or uses electricity to provide heat (as for cooking or heating)
b: a device that generates heat for special purposes (as for heating tools or heating air for a hot blast)
c: KILNThe stove is sometimes called a range but both terms are used in the US. The term stovetop (one word) comes up when searching Home Depot:
https://www.homedepot.com/c/ab/types-of-stovetops/9ba683603be9fa5395fab90a04794ac
I'm shocked by the 200 Amps main breaker. Here in Italy a standard family has a 3.0 to 5.5 kVA contract, which means a 16 or 20 Amp breaker.
The new meters (the ones that allow for remote reading) are programmed for a maximum load of 3.3 kVA continous (in my case, with a 3.0 kVA contract) and it will trip if you drain more than the max for a long time (minutes?).
A contract with larger limits has higher costs.
I understand the US electric supply does not discourage customers from using a lot of energy (as long as they pay the bills), but in Europe a limited amouut of current to the users side allows for better planning of the network.
I'm shocked by the 200 Amps main breaker. Here in Italy a standard family has a 3.0 to 5.5 kVA contract, which means a 16 or 20 Amp breaker.
The new meters (the ones that allow for remote reading) are programmed for a maximum load of 3.3 kVA continous (in my case, with a 3.0 kVA contract) and it will trip if you drain more than the max for a long time (minutes?).
A contract with larger limits has higher costs.
I understand the US electric supply does not discourage customers from using a lot of energy (as long as they pay the bills), but in Europe a limited amouut of current to the users side allows for better planning of the network.
7kw to dry yer clothes, aint you guys heard of washing lines
So nobody has commented on his observation that 208 V provides 86.6% less power to heaters than 240 V? When in fact the ratio is 75%?
I would be bummed about that. 4500 W on the water heater at 240 V was reduced to 3380 W at 208 V.
I'm sure he meant to say 75% but somehow misspoke.
So nobody has commented on his observation that 208 V provides 86.6% less power to heaters than 240 V? When in fact the ratio is 75%?
I would be bummed about that. 4500 W on the water heater at 240 V was reduced to 3380 W at 208 V.
I'm sure he meant to say 75% but somehow misspoke.
If you are in the US and you have an heater in a room, (e-g- an electric stove), it will be powered via a ridicolus plug at 120 V.
I imagine a 120 V unit would incinerate its heating element on 230 V.
200A 240V is the standard service installed in the USA, I've seen 150 and even as small as 100A service in older houses but not anything built in the last 40 years.
Another factor that likely contributed to the voltage choice is that 120V incandescent lamps are substantially more efficient than 240V incandescent lamps. The lower the voltage, the shorter and thicker the filament is for the same wattage. A shorter, thicker filament has lower convective losses. A 240V 60W bulb is only slightly brighter than a 40W 120V bulb.
The "2/3" 120/208V system is common in apartments and condos in densely populated cities. There, heating appliances running cooler keeps apartment owners happy by reducing maintenance costs.
120/208V 3 Phase 4 Wire
277/480V 3 Phase 4 Wire
120/240V 3 Phase 4 Wire
120/240V Single Phase.
In thinking about it, it's a real mess!
Many DNOs (the local network operators) have designed the power distribution networks with the assumption that all customers will use an average of 4-5kW at peak.