EEVblog Electronics Community Forum
General => General Technical Chat => Topic started by: FenderBender on December 01, 2012, 06:00:51 am
-
Sorry for all of the posts as of the late...I try to make them useful ones.
Anyway, I was perusing the internet (as usual), and I ran across this intriguing little thing. http://dangerousprototypes.com/docs/Patrick:_Soldering_iron_driver_v1_development (http://dangerousprototypes.com/docs/Patrick:_Soldering_iron_driver_v1_development)
It's a $7 board at Seeed. Seeed seems to be down so I can't link it.
Anyway, I estimate the cost would probably be near the same as an FX-888 in the end, so I'm not quite sure if it's such a great deal but it does offer an active temperature readout if you care for one. And yes you can use a rotary encoder on this one.
I'n not entirely sure the usefulness of something like this, but I'd say you could build a really high quality station...Hell, even better than a Hakko if you please. Toroid transformer, top tier parts, you name it, you can do it.
Interesting...
-
Oh wow, why? :-//
Dave.
-
It's a $7 board at Seeed. Seeed seems to be down so I can't link it.
It must be this one:
http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/open-soldering-station-pcb-p-1282.html?cPath=174 (http://www.seeedstudio.com/depot/open-soldering-station-pcb-p-1282.html?cPath=174)
But yeah, I wonder as well what is the benefit of having a uC solution to finely control a simple soldering iron?
Or is it just the sign of times where there are more PICs that 741s in designer's drawers?
-
Why don't we toss away the new 888's digital board and the front panel and fit it with a custom PCB and front panel?
-
You can easily build a controller but not the heater technology, sensors of and alloys used in the tip; that's one thing the copies often mention '... uses real Hakko tips and heaters'. The electronics only serve to drive the heaters response to its fastest, and feedback the heater tip as accurately as possible. In order to improve the 888, the FX951 has a full redesign so the heater/sensor/tip are all integrated into one replaceable module. Tips for the 888 only cost between $3-7 each, but for the 951 it now rises to $10-$150 with a median price of $20.
At best, you'll have another copy of the 888. Since users buy parts in small volume compared to the volume discount of a manufacturer, nearly certain the parts alone will cost more than buying the whole thing assembled, and that doesn't include the iron handle, heater, and tips; genuine Hakko 888 iron alone is $75 US, and the whole 888 is $80 at Amazon, so it shows just how much the electronics truly cost. If you buy a copy handle it will run $5-7, but is a likely inferior copy what you want after all this trouble?
-
Bad for americans to make their own FX-888 but other places of the world makes it VERY attractive, especially when you have the FX-888 costing 200$
-
Saturation, you have a good point but adding a custom board to the 888 makes it more hackable. We could add our own features like auto-off and do whatever we want with the front panel layout.
-
It certainly can, T4P, but you still have to buy the original Hakko iron holder to make a truer copy, or use a fake iron for $5, but is it truly the same performance? It can since the electronics is fairly old school, There are some temp graphs of copies on eevblog archives, and YMMV on what you make:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/product-reviews-photos-and-discussion/yihua-898bd-soldering-station-review/msg78496/#msg78496 (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/product-reviews-photos-and-discussion/yihua-898bd-soldering-station-review/msg78496/#msg78496)
In the above Fabio has 3 irons.
Bad for americans to make their own FX-888 but other places of the world makes it VERY attractive, especially when you have the FX-888 costing 200$
If modding is you goal, I'm not sure there is more that can be done to that old technology, then anything goes and price is no object, so enjoy. But if you want to duplicate prior work to save money, you may have to do a rough BOM to see if it evens out, not including your labor. You could for example, find a used 936 and work from there and just refurbish it rather than build from scratch.
Saturation, you have a good point but adding a custom board to the 888 makes it more hackable. We could add our own features like auto-off and do whatever we want with the front panel layout.
-
As far as getting a genuine Hakko handle, the main designer of this board says that there are practically no differences in quality between a $10 China handle and a $80 Hakko handle.
http://elco.crsndoo.com/wordpress/2011/09/hakko-907-i-kompatibilne-lemilice/ (http://elco.crsndoo.com/wordpress/2011/09/hakko-907-i-kompatibilne-lemilice/)
-
Here's a little something different (imho, a higher wattage element would set him straight).
Homemade pro-like soldering station for under $40 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gpnUUIst8e8#)
-
Its very likely, but as in the past discussions about this in the archives, YMMV depending on which clone you buy, and then again, you have to worry about the quality control of China, inconsistency of one batch to another in the same model.
Even then, the testing done on that blog isn't thorough, the single most vital element is the heat profile.
For example, in the link I provided to Fabio's post, compare the profile of the curve of his units to that of true Hakkos below:
(https://www.eevblog.com/forum/product-reviews-photos-and-discussion/yihua-898bd-soldering-station-review/?action=dlattach;attach=18422;image)
In a real Hakko, be it the 888 or the 936, the pulsations are ~ even from peak and trough while the Yihua clone shows a downslope, i.e.g, poorer regulation. In may not be an issue for personal use, but it may not be within IPC standards for a solder station, as would any other of the units he tested, the yellow overshoots and the older Weller is worse than the Yihua [ in blue.] Granted, the Weller could have responded that way due to age, the Yihua Hakko clone is new.
(http://www.tequipment.net/ProductImages/Hakko/FX888-c_mid.jpg)
For comparison, here is a well regarded station, the JBC, in red, versus another competitor; the key is the IPC grade station maintains evenness from pulse crest and trough.
(http://www.howardelectronics.com/jbc/comparison_files/image006.gif)
As far as getting a genuine Hakko handle, the main designer of this board says that there are practically no differences in quality between a $10 China handle and a $80 Hakko handle.
http://elco.crsndoo.com/wordpress/2011/09/hakko-907-i-kompatibilne-lemilice/ (http://elco.crsndoo.com/wordpress/2011/09/hakko-907-i-kompatibilne-lemilice/)
-
A better firmware will improve the station that's for sure, if you have a Yihua and a lot of odd names spawned from it 858D (I know, it isn't a 898D and it's the hot air gun section but it's relevant)
The TRIAC is modulated by a TRIAC output opto MOC3041 that goes through a 1k resistor to pin 18 of the Samsung S3F9454BZZ-0K94 that's mounted on a socket so i guess it can be hacked?
I'm surprised it isn't controlled by the LM358 which they always do and it's more funny when you think the output is essentially controlled by a uC ... Of course, better code improves the heat ramp issues and the failed sensor phenomenon that makes it go into overdrive
Easy to fix in software but a opamp control the 936 clones employ isn't easily fixed but requires some board redesign as well as a TRIAC driver
Of course you don't need a triac driver but you need a faster control loop and i guess it's not too hard
-
Here is the link to the archived thread on the specs of a good station:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/product-reviews-photos-and-discussion/developing-a-quantitative-approach-to-evaluating-soldering-stations/ (https://www.eevblog.com/forum/product-reviews-photos-and-discussion/developing-a-quantitative-approach-to-evaluating-soldering-stations/)
-
Its very likely, but as in the past discussions about this in the archives, YMMV depending on which clone you buy, and then again, you have to worry about the quality control of China, inconsistency of one batch to another in the same model.
As far as getting a genuine Hakko handle, the main designer of this board says that there are practically no differences in quality between a $10 China handle and a $80 Hakko handle.
http://elco.crsndoo.com/wordpress/2011/09/hakko-907-i-kompatibilne-lemilice/ (http://elco.crsndoo.com/wordpress/2011/09/hakko-907-i-kompatibilne-lemilice/)
It is also compatible with the K-Type Weller WES51 handle which is around $35 new. I'm not sure if the PTC-type Hakko handles are innately better than K-Type or vise versa, but the board says it can drive both types.
But if you're worried about buying a Hakko handle of unknown quality from China, you can get one of those...but then again, who knows about Weller's build quality or even genuine Hakko for that matter. :P
-
Motion sensors so when you reach for the iron its ready for you! :-+
Edit:
It aims an infrared thermometer at you and by controlling your internal body temperature you can control your soldering temp.
Need to solder onto some big heat sinks... GET MAD.
-
Motion sensors so when you reach for the iron its ready for you! :-+
Edit:
It aims an infrared thermometer at you and by controlling your internal body temperature you can control your soldering temp.
Need to solder onto some big heat sinks... GET MAD.
Hahaha
-
One needn't worry about genuine Hakkos, they stake their name and reputation on it and that's why they are counterfeited, their name means a lot; so far no real Hakkos are OEM by another maker as Weller does with its lowest end irons. As for Weller, I would worry; they are far more inconsistent.
The lowly 888 is safety approved and per Hakko, will meet or exceed IPC standards so you are certain to get an IPC J-STD-001E grade station, out of the box. With copies or DIY, you can save money, and take your chances.
http://www.hakkousa.com/detail.asp?CID=49&PID=4800&Page=2 (http://www.hakkousa.com/detail.asp?CID=49&PID=4800&Page=2)
But if you're worried about buying a Hakko handle of unknown quality from China, you can get one of those...but then again, who knows about Weller's build quality or even genuine Hakko for that matter. :P
-
The biggest issue I see with the clones is an undersized transformer, that can't deliver the rated power to the iron. You could probably see this if you swap handles between a clone and a real Hakko. Slightly higher cable resistance, triac losses, etc. may also make a difference, but the basic design of the analogue controller is well understood and there's no secret that makes the real one perform vastly better --- just better component specs.
-
If you bought a Atten 936b the above applies or a KADA 936D of course. they only have a tiny 35-40W transformer unlike most of the higher priced clones that actually have a 60W transformer
-
I think it's cool to have the option to make one. Sometimes it's nice to use something that you made yourself and sometimes it's nice to use something that works well with published specs.
The guy that designed this board did a lot of work and even drilled a hole in some tips, glued a thermocouple in there and made some performance measurements. The thread on dangerous prototypes about it is really long though, I skimmed most of it.
-
I have old second hands weller WTCP-S.
It's not adjustable, that's at times a painfull problem.
Tips seems expensive and harder to get. Or you need to use adapter.
Now i found soem topics of building your own (arduino) one.
It keeps tempting and interesting to make your own one, if you use a yihua replacement iron.
Tips seems to be cheap. And budget is not so big anymore as in the past here.
Other reason to build your own is that it can be repaired more easy.
Still reading into this and thinking about it.
But is a toolcraft or velleman or other strang brand so much better then homemade station ?
Of my things in my mind is that i want more own created things because you can fix it yourself.
Instead of need to trust some repair company. And i have bad experiences with that.
-
if you build it yourself, you know what's in it.
you also know the build quality - for better or worse! :-/O
-
I guess the quality of your own depends both on your goals (highest quality or lowest cost possible or somewhere in between), but more importantly on your skills.
Even if someone lays out some 100% clear schematics, this might be beyond some people like me.
Some additional cost might be in making some mistakes in the construction process.
E.g. I wouldn't try to lay out my own PCB without having the right knowledge, as I'm sure there are many errors possible. That means a much more simplified design, and less to none SMD components. One advantage is that with no SMD components, repair is easier.
Safety is a concern also, but with these low voltage iron handles (12 to 24 volt variants exist from what I understand), I guess that external power supply could be used, and the DIY controller could work entirely on the low voltage DC, which should already have built in protections.
I don't know of any simple (or complex) way to regulate the temperature with satisfactory results however. Arduino seems popular and newbie friendly, so maybe it could take some input on the temperature, monitor it for changes constantly and adjust the gate voltage of some transistors driving the output to the handle (maybe not as simple as that, but I haven't done any work with microcontrollers yet). If the temperature gets higher than a user set X value, reduce the power until it reaches the desired voltage. Knowing by how much to reduce/increase the power to maintain a good balance would be helpful to make it more efficient and faster. Calibration would be necessary of course, but then, it always is.
Then again, most people here are not total newbies and might be skilled enough to know how to construct this (a DIY controller, not specifically what I wrote about above) and not have too many issues, but for people like me, buying a cheap Chinese soldering station or even a soldering iron without thermal regulation is usually the better way, and might be cheaper. Either way, I wouldn't get great quality in my personal design case. Fortunately, for practice and learning I don't need great quality, as long the thing doesn't kill me. :)
-
Not planning to use SMD. That have it's own problems. Just use old school transformer.
I have basic skills and made simple things. Costs is a reason to make it yourself on top of the option that it can be repaired. And it sounds a fun project. Still waiting at my arduino :)
I found this 2 articles that sounds most interesting for me to use as start.
https://create.arduino.cc/projecthub/sfrwmaker/soldering-iron-controller-for-hakko-907-8c5866 (https://create.arduino.cc/projecthub/sfrwmaker/soldering-iron-controller-for-hakko-907-8c5866)
http://www.instructables.com/id/The-Hakko-T12/ (http://www.instructables.com/id/The-Hakko-T12/)
-
well those are crap. >:D
if you want arduino based, look at these:
https://debugginglab.wordpress.com/2014/10/30/soldering-station/ (https://debugginglab.wordpress.com/2014/10/30/soldering-station/)
https://github.com/manolena/DIY-SMD-Soldering-Station (https://github.com/manolena/DIY-SMD-Soldering-Station)
or going all-out for the best:
http://dangerousprototypes.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=56&t=7218&p=61175 (http://dangerousprototypes.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=56&t=7218&p=61175)
-
that universal soldering iron controler is ridiculously too complex, no need.
A beginner can do fine with a decent 936 clone. The tips are cheap, and it's a simple design that just works. The Xtronic stations are made by Yihua, but they have nice silicon leads, and seem to be built nicer than the really cheap 936 clones.
-
This one looks good to, as example or to use. And yes i look for some iron type.
https://hackermagnet.com/portfolio/soldering-station/