Author Topic: Rocker switch needs spring?  (Read 233 times)

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Offline Alex EisenhutTopic starter

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Rocker switch needs spring?
« on: April 14, 2024, 06:07:26 pm »
I took a DPDT rocker switch apart because it failed. There was no continuity on one circuit and the rocker was stuck in the off position.
It's a ON-ON type.
So I took it apart and was surprised to see there's no spring. I thought there needs to be compression somewhere to make the contacts toggle.
I was able to get continuity back but when I re-assembled it the rocker only worked a few times and got stuck again. Forcing it made the rocker pop out from its holder.
Attached picture.
1 is the body, 2 are the contacts that go into 1, 3 is the toggle, 4 is the cover.
I would have expected a tiny spring somewhere on #3 to keep the black plastic .. thing... anvil... whatever securely pressing down?
It's very annoying because this particular switch model is used on all kinds of Commodore drives and is expensive to get an exact replacement.
My previous switch problems were all solved with precision disassembly but now I can't remember if there was a spring in them.

What do you think? Should there be a spring?
Hoarder of 8-bit Commodore relics and 1960s Tektronix 500-series stuff. Unconventional interior decorator.
 

Offline CatalinaWOW

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Re: Rocker switch needs spring?
« Reply #1 on: April 14, 2024, 06:59:16 pm »
The toggle handle appears to surround a plunger connected to the black plastic anvil.  My guess is that any spring is probably inside the cavity of the handle.  And since it didn't pop open on you probably has little or no compression left.

Hard to really say without pawing over and twisting and turning the parts with my own hands.
 
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Offline amyk

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Re: Rocker switch needs spring?
« Reply #2 on: Yesterday at 12:15:53 am »
They may not need a separate spring if the natural elasticity of the materials is enough for an over-center effect.
 

Offline Alex EisenhutTopic starter

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Re: Rocker switch needs spring?
« Reply #3 on: Yesterday at 03:04:56 pm »
Yeah I checked, sometimes the metal shaft is hollow and there's a teeny-tiny bouncy spring that likes to eff off under the floor boards, not in this case, it's solid.
I had also considered the fact that the metal body part probably has some give but that means it all depends very much on the exact mating position and retention.
All in all, I've spent more energy typing than just ordering new switches.
I'll just order a bunch and get over it...
Hoarder of 8-bit Commodore relics and 1960s Tektronix 500-series stuff. Unconventional interior decorator.
 


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