What's this please? (Component Advice)

[salbayeng]

I'd vote for the "slip between the battery and terminal" option, I've made a couple myself from brass shim and double sided tape, very useful, you can also use them to isolate the battery to inject external power.
Your's look to be made in the Middle Kingdom, someone's gone to the effort of squashing the strips twice to get a nice wedge effect.

Any other useful goodies in your probe kit?

[amyk]

It's for Batteriser testing.

[timelessbeing]

Indeed, there's no continuity between the two faces so it must be for batteries.

It's a nice kit. I got a pouch full of different clips, grabbers, needle points and such. The leads are very nice silicone rubber and the probe tips are very sharp. I can take a photo if you like. I'm quite happy with the quality and reasonable price. I'm not sure what Middle Kingdom refers to, but Mueller is based in Ohio.

[Fortran]

What a simple and clever little probe!
I didn't realize how much I need one until I saw it

Luckily I have some thin PCB's laying around with plated borders. Making a bunch of them won't take more then a couple of minutes. 

[salbayeng]

It could possibly be an "electro-chemical fuse" (that's not quite the right name for it, but I can't remember the right name).
The device is connected in series with the battery via the two thick wires on the right.

It is intended as a last chance protection against over voltage or undervoltage to prevent the Li-ion cell exploding.

In the event of a serious fault that the BMS IC can't handle by shutting down the series mosfets (i.e. because they have shorted), the BMS applies power to the lead on the left, this heats up the little black bit, which sets off a chemical reaction that corrodes through a thin metal film (underneath the blue area) and isolates the battery permanently.
Note the series MOSFETs are under the chemi-fuse in your photo, so if they overheat, they will also fire off the fuse.

I've got a professional-grade cam-corder battery here, given to me when the chemi-fuse went off accidently? I now have 12 perfectly good 18650 cells that I removed from the pack!!.

[amyk]

That would be one of these: http://battery.newlist.ru/images2/Fuse.pdf

And judging from your picture, it looks like it has already blown open (there shouldn't be gaps between the metal parts).

[fubar.gr]

This is a board from an elevator and controls the opening and closing of the sliding doors.

According to a technician who tested it, this 7 lead TO220 is faulty and has to be replaced, but the inscriptions are dremmeled off.

Any idea what this component might be?

[bktemp]

Looks like a H-bridge driver. TLE5206-2 seems to have a matching pinout.

[salbayeng]

I'd vote with BK temp.
There aren't a lot of power devices in TO220-7
http://au.mouser.com/Semiconductors/Power-Management-ICs/_/N-wnwh?No=50&FS=True&P=1z0y1ic

The TLE5206-2 is the only one that is a full bridge and a motor driver, and the pin-out matches.

Note that if you have a bad connection to the motor, (e.g. it breaks contact due to vibration etc. ) the arcing across the bad connection will damage the H-bridge driver, the internal clamping diodes are not schottky, so the diodes will let through ~ 100ns of several hundred volts at every arc event.

The presence of some sloppy rework around the connector pins indicates a possible prior dry joint on the connectors.  It is more than likely that the wires on the connectors are probably too stiff, too heavy, and not properly supported. This will cause the solder on the connector pins to fatigue. When you repair and re-install the board, you should replace overly rigid wire with more flexible wire, and cable tie the wires to the spacers that support this PCB.

? ?

[kostasb]

Hello,

Any ideas on this IC?



Marking: "K9GK", "818"

Thank you

[frozenfrogz]

Hello,

Any ideas on this IC?

Marking: "K9GK", "818"

Thank you

MSOP10 (?) packaged might be a buck-converter.

[salbayeng]

Looks like a switching regulator,  package probably a TDFN-10 or DFN-10 or VSON-10  , these are 3.0 x 3.0mm
looks like pin 1 is the input (output) and pin 10 is the output(input) , ground will be a big exposed pad underneath.

Can you determine what parts are hanging off which pins, there should be an inductor, and possibly a diode somewhere.

There might be a pair of resistors hanging off a pin too.

This should give some candidate parts: http://au.mouser.com/Semiconductors/Integrated-Circuits-ICs/Power-Management-ICs/Switching-Controllers/_/N-6j76j?P=1z0y2cyZ1yuy3t8Z1yzxi1hZ1z0jilt&Ns=ManufacturerPartNumber%7c0

[bktemp]

It looks like pin 1 is connected to a mini/micro USB connector, so 5V is either input or output voltage. I don't see any inductor, so maybe a linear regulator, charge controller, load switch.
That marking style looks somehow familiar to me, but I don't recognize the manufacturer of hand. Could it be Monolithic Power System?

[newc22]

Hello All!

I have got a video kard ASUS 7790 2 GB OC some days ago my win7 freeze... it has got a blue screen...   I take it and i saw one chip which gone.... (PC628)  anybody know what's this?! And it is going to fix it?! Thanx the reply!!!

<a href="http://www.kepfeltoltes.eu/view.php?filename=735vidkari.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://www.kepfeltoltes.eu/images/hdd1/20170222/735vidkari.jpg" alt="Korlátlan képfeltöltés ingyen - www.kepfeltoltes.eu">[/url]

[PA0PBZ]

Hello All!

I have got a video kard ASUS 7790 2 GB OC some days ago my win7 freeze... it has got a blue screen...   I take it and i saw one chip which gone.... (PC628)  anybody know what's this?! And it is going to fix it?! Thanx the reply!!!

It's just a capacitor like the ones next to it, probably somewhere between 0.5 - 2 uF.
I don't think replacing it will fix the card, it looks like a decoupling cap and the card should work without.

[newc22]

Yes it's working but unfortunatelly my pc get a blue screen death. I went to the service and they told me my video card bad and one small part broke it.... What can i do to fix this problem?! And where can i buy this capacitor?! Thx the reply!

[kostasb]

Hello,

Any ideas on this IC?



Marking: "K9GK", "818"

Thank you

It is in a electronic cigarette mod.
It is used for charging a Lion battery at 890mA.
USB input (5V), 4.19V output.
The problem is that it gets extremely hot.
I can't see all the connections because there are 2 pcbs.
I must find a way to limit the charging current.

Pin-1 is the input (microUSB)
Pin-10 is the output (4.19V).
Pin-2 is connecting to microcontroller.
Between pin8 and ground there is a 20K resistor.
Between pin9 and ground there is a 1.9K resistor.
Between pin4 and 5 there is a resistor.
As I can see there is no voltage divider.
There is neither inductor nor diode.

[bktemp]

It could be one of those:
https://www.monolithicpower.com/Products/Parametric-Search?categoryID=76/#filters=
The package matches and also the pinout looks identical.
Unfortunally most datasheets don't have marking code information, but the ones with marking information show a 4 digit code.

[kostasb]

Thank you!     Thank you!     Thank you! 

I'm not sure for the part, but all the connections and components it's like MP26023.
I replace the programing current resistor, and it works just like datasheet says.
From 890mA, reduced to 520mA.
But it is still very hot.
Only 2-3^oC lower!   

[dexters_lab]

i am trying to identify the make and / or model of these LCD Pushswitches, we initially thought they were NKK SmartSwitch but i am not so sure, the footprint and construction don't match anything in their catalog. The only marking is a printed '47A' and a small logo (see pics)

There is a logo on them which seems to be either SD or DS

The pin footprint is completely different to anything in the SmartSwitch catalog but the pins do match the pin descriptions of the 36x24 SmartSwitch

Maybe these are discontinued models?

[dexters_lab]

no, but they did come from a company making broadcast & film production equipment, it seems they were popular for that

[amyk]

Googling for the names marked on the pins lead me to this (currently) dead link but that made me search for "Circuit Cellar 020 1991" and I found a working link, on page 52 you may find the details: it is the "Pixie switch" from IEE.

Another brief mention here.

That and this brief mention are about all I can find about this part on the Internet.

Maybe if you ask IEE they might give you a datasheet?

[dexters_lab]

that looks a perfect match for what i have here, thanks!!

i'll email them and see if i get anything back, given that article dates from 1991 i won't hold my breath!

i have about 40 of them here so would be nice if they could be used somehow

Googling for the names marked on the pins lead me to this (currently) dead link but that made me search for "Circuit Cellar 020 1991" and I found a working link, on page 52 you may find the details: it is the "Pixie switch" from IEE.

Another brief mention here.

That and this brief mention are about all I can find about this part on the Internet.

Maybe if you ask IEE they might give you a datasheet?

[Richard Crowley]

I bought some motor driver boards from Ebay. 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/272301540441

They claim they are "L298N", but the label on the chips are removed.
The apparent dentification of the input and output nodes does not appear to match L298N.
And the L298N does not even appear to be available in that package, either.
Anybody have a clue what these things could be?

[amb101]

When this happens I usually search for the same item from different buyers sellers and look for ones where you can read the chip.
This one's easy to read: http://www.ebay.com/itm/272470664807