What's this please? (Component Advice)

[diefenbaker]

hi all, new to the forum so hope I'm in the right place.

I have an intel NUC that has died and I believe this regulator needs replacing. Possibly more components of course but starting with this for now.

Can anyone please help me identify the component and point me in the direction of where I might buy a replacement?
In this image that has the markings EBA7PA. Ive added an image of the burnt one too.

For context it is close to where the PSU plugs into the NUC and the PSU provides 19v/3.42A.

[gamalot]

hi all, new to the forum so hope I'm in the right place.

I have an intel NUC that has died and I believe this regulator needs replacing. Possibly more components of course but starting with this for now.

Can anyone please help me identify the component and point me in the direction of where I might buy a replacement?
In this image that has the markings EBA7PA. Ive added an image of the burnt one too.

For context it is close to where the PSU plugs into the NUC and the PSU provides 19v/3.42A.

SM3308NSQA

https://www.alldatasheet.com/view_datasheet.jsp?Searchword=SM3308

It could be RT9167-26CB

https://www.datasheetq.com/en/preview/RT9167-26CB-Richtek

[diefenbaker]

Thanks Gamalot. Is it worth me powering up the working nuc and trying to measure the output of the component?
My thinking is I would be able to confirm the inputs/outputs match the spec on the parts you've highlighted.

[fzabkar]

Thanks Gamalot. Is it worth me powering up the working nuc and trying to measure the output of the component?
My thinking is I would be able to confirm the inputs/outputs match the spec on the parts you've highlighted.

Yes, of course, please do that. Carefully measure the voltages on all pins. Use external test points, if appropriate, to avoid damage due to slips with the probe.

[fzabkar]

Can someone identify the 5V e-fuse? The part ID is "J9". The other markings vary. The PCB was manufactured in 2022.

5V e-fuse or current limited load switch, Seagate Exos, marking J9, QFN-12, equivalent to MP5018:

https://www.monolithicpower.com/en/documentview/productdocument/index/version/2/document_type/Datasheet/lang/en/sku/MP5018/

https://preview.redd.it/sq8hsfgzf3ye1.png?width=1080&format=png&auto=webp&s=67fd1383781388af42ea3d2157497ae8083c8d40

[gamalot]

If even you can't find the answer, then it's probably close to impossible. My guess is that it might just be an MP5017/18 chip with a custom top marking.

[fzabkar]

If even you can't find the answer, then it's probably close to impossible. My guess is that it might just be an MP5017/18 chip with a custom top marking.

My success rate is about one in three. Yours seems much higher. That's why I refer others to this place. :-)

Can anyone identify the C131BC MOSFET in the second photo? It is equivalent to an FDMC510P. I would think that a company like Seagate would stick with mainstream IC makers, but who knows these days?

FDMC510P, ON Semiconductor, P-Channel PowerTrench MOSFET, -20V, -18A, 8.0mOhm Rdson, MLP 3.3x3.3:

https://www.onsemi.com/pdf/datasheet/fdmc510p-d.pdf

[gamalot]

My success rate is about one in three. Yours seems much higher. That's why I refer others to this place. :-)

Can anyone identify the C131BC MOSFET in the second photo? It is equivalent to an FDMC510P. I would think that a company like Seagate would stick with mainstream IC makers, but who knows these days?

I feel like I'm usually pretty lucky, but not so much lately. There's this component I can't find any info on at all, maybe you can give it a try.

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/advantest-r6243-dc-voltage-current-sourcemonitor-error-330/

---

At first I guessed it might be a 2SD1935, but the top markings for that one only end with 5, 6, 7, or 8. Then I came across the 2SC4443 and thought I'd finally nailed it, but unfortunately it's one size smaller.

[fzabkar]

Some candidates here:

https://markingcodes.com/search/c/gt4

[diefenbaker]

Hello all, Im trying to repair a PSP and found what i thought was a blown fuse.

Can anyone identify the component marked LB?



Its found on a Sony PSP Street edition (model E1000)
Per the markings on the PCB i thought it was a fuse but have been thrown because I cant find any fuses that use the markings LB.

There are other fuses on the board that are labelled in a similar way but they have the letters FB (im assuming 'fast blow') on them.
As expected the other fuses on the board have .1 ohm resistance but this LB component which is visibly damaged has 2M ohms +.


Edit: update. Think Ive confirmed LB is indeed a fuse as I found the same part on another generation PSP and used the schematics I have for that model to confirm.

[gamalot]

Can anyone identify the component marked LB?

NFCC06 102ABTPF

https://www.jauch.com/downloadfile/58afeb6b3700a_902310420f4705bff513/nfcc_nfhc.pdf

[diefenbaker]

Thanks gamalot. That aligns with my findings on the other model.

Do you have any suggestions on where to buy one in the UK?
I've just been going through a pile of old electronics I have at home looking to scavenge one from something else but no luck.

[fzabkar]

It's a 1A 32V 0603 fast fuse. Farnell or RS Components should have an equivalent.

[diefenbaker]

Thanks again. I've ordered some from Farnell. A small selection of various sizes. May as well have a few in stock for other repairs.

[seanf]

Trying to find out what this 3 pin part is?

It looks to have the marking " 2IS 3t " on it. Labelled as IC1 on the board and drawing. Its part of a battery / solar light.
Diode test shows 0.5v when testing with positive on the single pin side and negative on either of the pins on the other side, and nothing testing any other way around.

Not sure Im finding the correct part when searching.

Thanks

[Yansi]

seanf That is a battery protector IC, most likely something like this: XB3152IS (could not find any datasheet, but it likely exists).
Have found only the neighboring part "3IS", which is: https://www.lcsc.com/datasheet/C669675.pdf
The 2IS is mentioned for example here: http://xzw.semihigh.com.cn/UC6092.pdf

[Yansi]

Any ideas what this might be?  Got a half a meter of a tape with these parts, marked as "PX108B 15K ACG7", manufacturer is Texas Instruments. No idea what it is, google of no help, AI of no help. Package bog standard TSSOP16.

Any ideas please? Otherwise to trash it goes. 

[gamalot]

Any ideas what this might be?  Got a half a meter of a tape with these parts, marked as "PX108B 15K ACG7", manufacturer is Texas Instruments. No idea what it is, google of no help, AI of no help. Package bog standard TSSOP16.

Any ideas please? Otherwise to trash it goes. 

No info found. It looks like an analog switch, something like a TMUX8108 or TS3A5018.

[seanf]

Thank you Yansi

[w.v.s.]

Hello,

does anyone know this electrode pattern for a digital caliper? I've bought a mutronic DIADISC 42OO Cut-off saw  http://www.mutronic.de/e_mutronic.htm which shows signs of some misuse and a missing readout/display unit http://www.mutronic.de/e_parallel.htm on its caliper. If I knew the manufacturer of the caliper, I would have the chance to only add a new readout/display unit instead of replacing the full caliper.

[AVGresponding]

Golden oldie this time, instead of a modern smd.

21-pin Welwyn can, aviation, probably military, tempted to de-lid one (have two).




Socketed into a laser diode/photodiode board.

[David Aurora]

Anybody recognise inductors like these? Either the part or the type of core that would have been used? This one measures about 2.2H/DCR of about 430, it's from the EQ section of an old Fender Studio Bass amp.

It was actually failed, I've had this amp in for repair before and the customer was fine with not going down the rabbit hole of trying to find another.

But I've been getting into winding my own inductors a bit lately and the amp is in again at the moment for a service, so I thought I'd pull it out for a closer look and perhaps make a replacement. Desoldering it has actually fixed it though, at least for now. It was measuring open circuit and the EQ band didn't work, but I guess desoldering it reflowed the coil connection to one of the pins as it got back continuity and the EQ works now.

I'm sure I'll see more of these inductors dead at some point though so I'd be keen to figure out the best way to replace them with as close a match to the originals as possible.