Author Topic: Restoring the Lambda LQ-532V power supply - end of project (Read 30903 times)

tekfan · « **Reply #50 on:** May 01, 2011, 09:08:11 pm »

Great work!

I would replace the capacitor near the resistor (the one with one end red). It just goes across the power supply output terminals but it helps a bit to reduce output noise. I'm saying this because several of the same type of cpacitors were bad in my supplies.

BTW
You don't need to isolate the resistor with a mica sheet. It's already isolated inside from the case its self.

SnakeBite · « **Reply #51 on:** May 01, 2011, 09:48:41 pm »

Quote from: tekfan on May 01, 2011, 09:08:11 pm

Great work!

I would replace the capacitor near the resistor (the one with one end red). It just goes across the power supply output terminals but it helps a bit to reduce output noise. I'm saying this because several of the same type of cpacitors were bad in my supplies.

BTW
You don't need to isolate the resistor with a mica sheet. It's already isolated inside from the case its self.

i know it was just as a precaution anyway .
i don't think this cap is damaged but maybe i will check it and if it out of spec i will replace it.
the problem is in the schemetics this cap is rated as 5.6uf 250v electrolitic capacitor but i don't think it's electrolitic it look like a film cap like that:
http://cgi.ebay.com/2pcs-5-6uF-250V-Tubular-Audio-Capacitor-565J-/320674860955?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4aa9b60f9b
do i replace it with electrolitic or film?

another question that i have is about restoring the white captions on the front panel like the lambda logo and other (did i mention i'm Perfectionist

) ? i can take a white pencil or something but i don't think it will be that clear on the metal front panel... this captions are like a water tatoo but i don't know where and how i can restore it.

can you help me?
Ido

tekfan · « **Reply #52 on:** May 01, 2011, 10:36:09 pm »

The capacitor is definetly a standard electrolytic. A film capacitor at 5.6uF/250V would be much bigger. If you can't get 5.6 uF you can use the next larger value (eg. 10uF or even bigger).

WARNING
When using 4 wire mode be very careful to connect the sensing terminals to the power terminals. If they are not connected the power supply will be putting out more than 40 volts even if the voltage pot is set at 0. That's because the supply senses the voltage at the sensing terminals. In this case it senses nothing and will try to increase the output untill the desired voltage is achieved.

If you have some digital circuit connected to the PS but the sense wires disconnected you can kiss your circuit goodbye. Especially if the current limit is set to full.

If you want to restore the lettering maybe you could use Chartpak dry transfer lettering. I don't know in what fonts or color you can get it but it seems the most suitable option.
It looks like the front panel of this thing (probably one of the most beautiful DIY builds I've ever seen):
http://www.timefracture.org/reg.html

Richard W. · « **Reply #53 on:** May 02, 2011, 04:08:13 pm »

Engraving would be the most beautiful and most expensive way to label your front panel.
If the panel is not bigger than a usual sheet of paper you can just scan it and do the "rework" with photoshop or someting like that.
At least here in germany you can find a lot of CNC-guys who also can engrave something. Maybe in Israel too?

Another idea: Printed adhesive-foil. This kind of mousepad-surface, do you know what i mean?
Looks very professional if it is done right.
(Just ask your local copyshop)

SnakeBite · « **Reply #54 on:** May 02, 2011, 06:52:50 pm »

Quote from: Richard W. on May 02, 2011, 04:08:13 pm

Engraving would be the most beautiful and most expensive way to label your front panel.
If the panel is not bigger than a usual sheet of paper you can just scan it and do the "rework" with photoshop or someting like that.
At least here in germany you can find a lot of CNC-guys who also can engrave something. Maybe in Israel too?

Another idea: Printed adhesive-foil. This kind of mousepad-surface, do you know what i mean?
Looks very professional if it is done right.
(Just ask your local copyshop)

i don't know what you mean

but i will check it out thanks
i thought about something else to take iron paper (the paper that you using to print T-Shirt logo on it and iron it the T-Shirt) , scan and edit the front panel and then print it and iron it on the panel with iron but i don't know if it stick on metal. also i'm not sure the printer prints white color because my friend told me they don't but he not sure too. do you know?

Ido

Richard W. · « **Reply #55 on:** May 02, 2011, 07:59:12 pm »

Here is a link:
http://www.macdermidautotype.com/autotype.nsf/webfamilieseurope/AUTOTEX
It is the same kind of foil which is used for membrane keyboards.

A printer doesn't print white. You can't mix white from cyan, magenta, yellow or black.

SnakeBite · « **Reply #56 on:** May 08, 2011, 06:30:14 pm »

ok guys i'm finish to put all the transistors on the heatsink and i tried to remove the two transistors on the PCB(voltage regualtors) but whoever solder this board solder the screw so i didn't manage to remove them to replace the thermal compound.

don't think it was easy i started yesterday and finish just now worked on it all day.

what i have left if to paint the front panel and the chassis and replace the binding post which i will do tomorrow.

pictures:

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

More updates tomorrow
enjoy
Ido

firewalker · « **Reply #57 on:** May 08, 2011, 10:45:26 pm »

Nice!

Enjoy your new psu!

SnakeBite · « **Reply #58 on:** May 09, 2011, 08:09:35 pm »

ok guys it my last post i finished everything.

today i repainted the front panel and the chassis. also i solder the new binding post terminals .
when i got the PS i made a little transparent plexiglass that i had and cut a square to protect the back terminals from shorting out.

i also scrap away some of the paint for the ground cable.

photos(sorry about the focus)

sanding:

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

thanks for your support
Ido

vk6zgo · « **Reply #59 on:** May 10, 2011, 03:44:52 am »

An excellent job! Congratulations.

I think you may find this website of interest:-http://jvgavila.com/

This guy restores test equipment,Ham radio,etc,& has lots of little tricks & techniques which come in handy.

I lack the patience these days to undertake the painstaking work that you have done,& that Jose' does,but I

definitely admire it.

VK6ZGO

deephaven · « **Reply #60 on:** May 10, 2011, 08:01:47 am »

Congratulations on completing a fine job. I followed with interest you painstaking progress through the restoration process. It's great to see a nice piece of equipment being lovingly brought back to a decent condition.

david77 · « **Reply #61 on:** May 10, 2011, 08:09:06 am »

Great job! I'm sure this PSU still has a lot of life in it and will serve you well for years.

Just one thing: That mains cable on the back made me shudder, you know that mess with insulation tape

wrapped all around it. Also what's missing there is a proper strain relief, that's an accident waiting to happen!

Personally I'd rewire that terminal board at the back so that it not carries mains voltage and add a proper strain relief and mains cable at the back.

saturation · « **Reply #62 on:** May 10, 2011, 11:23:41 am »

Amen! and Snake's taking the time to document it in photos for us.

Quote from: deephaven on May 10, 2011, 08:01:47 am

Congratulations on completing a fine job. I followed with interest you painstaking progress through the restoration process. It's great to see a nice piece of equipment being lovingly brought back to a decent condition.

tekfan · « **Reply #63 on:** May 10, 2011, 12:44:12 pm »

Wow! That supply looks even better than whenit was new. I really like the dark color. Yes, this one will serve you for many years to come.

SnakeBite · « **Reply #64 on:** May 10, 2011, 03:35:25 pm »

Quote from: david77 on May 10, 2011, 08:09:06 am

Great job! I'm sure this PSU still has a lot of life in it and will serve you well for years.

Just one thing: That mains cable on the back made me shudder, you know that mess with insulation tape wrapped all around it. Also what's missing there is a proper strain relief, that's an accident waiting to happen!

Personally I'd rewire that terminal board at the back so that it not carries mains voltage and add a proper strain relief and mains cable at the back.

i planed to do it but i could find #6 ring terminals i did only superficial search but i will get some don't worry...
i also thought about coating the transformer with varnish but i didn't want to delay the project ending just for this two things.

i tidy down my bench after the last photos and here is it now:

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

thanks for all your support
Ido

Balaur · « **Reply #65 on:** June 04, 2013, 03:25:02 pm »

Hello to all,

I found all this very fascinating as I've just acquired a LQ-521-W that work very nicely and it's also in good shape. Cheers and thanks to SnakeBite and all the contributors.

I'm sorry for reviving this thread, but I wonder if anybody has any of the manuals that were originally found at http://128.238.9.201/~kurt/manuals/manuals . The site is no longer available and I haven't managed to find other copies.

Best regards,
Dan

robrenz · « **Reply #66 on:** June 04, 2013, 03:43:44 pm »

Wow, Most excellent work SnakeBite

Somehow I missed this thread until now.
You might consider one of the rust neutralizing paints like Extend for the transformer, It does a great job of stoping rust and sealing the surface.

Again, great job.

AllanMN · « **Reply #67 on:** February 13, 2014, 04:02:04 am »

Quote from: Balaur on June 04, 2013, 03:25:02 pm

I'm sorry for reviving this thread, but I wonder if anybody has any of the manuals that were originally found at http://128.238.9.201/~kurt/manuals/manuals . The site is no longer available and I haven't managed to find other copies.

Best regards,
Dan

Same question. I just opened up a lambda LES-F-04-0V supply that looks similar and looking for repair info.

edavid · « **Reply #68 on:** February 13, 2014, 05:36:53 am »

Kurt's manuals have moved to http://exodus.poly.edu/~kurt/manuals/manuals

However, Lambda is very good about emailing manual PDFs if you ask them.

AllanMN · « **Reply #69 on:** February 13, 2014, 06:20:32 pm »

Quote from: edavid on February 13, 2014, 05:36:53 am

Kurt's manuals have moved to http://exodus.poly.edu/~kurt/manuals/manuals

Thanks!

ItSmokes · « **Reply #70 on:** February 16, 2019, 06:13:17 pm »

I know these comments are old, but I find the discussion very interesting. I recently found an LP-532 power supply for cheap in an antique store and would like to restore it. It would be very helpful if anyone can tell me where I can find a schematic for it.

apis · « **Reply #71 on:** February 16, 2019, 07:09:46 pm »

This thread is a good illustration why you should upload images to the forum instead of using external "services" like imageshack, this thread is still comprehensible but in many cases the pictures are necessary to understand the conversation so when the images disappear threads become useless.


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Author Topic: Restoring the Lambda LQ-532V power supply - **end of project** (Read 30903 times)

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Author Topic: Restoring the Lambda LQ-532V power supply - end of project (Read 30903 times)