Yeah, if you're talking a metal shop with only one band saw, they probably call it the band saw.
What I have noticed in shopping/buying, not as a tradesman, is the metal kind always has an extra modifier in front of "band saw." Metal cutting, vertical/horizontal, portable/deep-cut. Sometime they would use two, like metal cutting vertical bandsaw, but even by saying "vertical" the metal cutting is implicit. So "vertical band saw" is a metal cutting bandsaw.
The wood kind are invariably just "band saw" and are always vertical AFAIC.
I wonder if this is the same in other countries.
Outside of Jeremy Fielding's home-made induction motor band saw, I don't know of any other that will run at both wood and metal speeds/torques. Distinguishing them would get a little more complicated if those became avaliable.
For OP's question, it doesn't really matter, I suppose. If he just wants to know what tpi is best, it is probably the same, either way.
But if he has access to a metal cutting band saw, I bet he's also got an angle grinder or 2, if not a chop saw.
Personally, I've used a wet tile saw with diamond blade. This is not bad, but the kerf is pretty large, and it is messy. A router table is a very good and very cheap way to cut and do complex shaping of FR-4. You don't need much power, at all. The smallest/weakest trim router is way more power than you need. Carbide V groove bits will score/cut with minimal kerf, but it may take multiple passes to keep the cut smooth. Carbide endmills will do the bulk of complex inner and outer shapes very quickly.
I would think a dremel tool with an extra large diamond disc would work great, if you had the motivation to build a jig for it to make it safe and precise.