At 1st I wasn't sure I'd add the current limit, since it was rather simple and out of the way (layer 2 Vertical bus) I added the few resistors.
Now I looked at the Analog design for the 3045-1 (12 pins instead of 10, might resping a PCB for that one too)
They T the Vin, rather simple. I am trying to keep the distance from the Input to the regulator as mentioned in the design suggestions. So I went for a fork with small ground bridge near the regulator vias.
Comment #1 : I added the 260mV < (Vin - Vout) < 8.5V thinking of your comment. This is solely for experienced users, mainly me and very few others, the silk screens are just to allow others to spin their heads around it and not smoke the expensive 3x3mm black thingies... I will implement the reverse protection and other goodies that are included in those regulators, only if they don't lower the quality of the power.
Comment #2 : Yeah, the conflict is real Diodes make noise and heat I may just add one on the Input and use the PG pin 4 for a led.
LP filters, I use Qucs for filters, LTspice was one of my old favourites TINA I don't yet know of.
I have the QPL9065 in mind for the 1st LNA...
QPL9065 looks nice - their EVAL board also looks well done and something which I would be copying. They make provision for input filtering with the 0R also.
I would be placing the LM5069 (if you end up using one at all, if its just you hooking this up then perhaps no need at all) right on the input before any filtering, with a 1u on the timer pin to mostly disable it but am often charging a large down stream capacitance which you won't - they have a nice excel spreadsheet to work all the values out for you I usually use BSZ520N15NS3 G as the series fet, tough, small, yet to make one into toast. At least gives you some level of protection (stupid mistakes happen to the best of us) for later expensive and no doubt fragile LNA's.
Yes good point regarding LED heat (however the rest of the cct will be making enough), in this case I would break connection to the LED so you can short a couple of pads out with tweezers while testing, a little LED goes a long way when you are stressed and trying to figure out why something isn't working, your meters hooked up to something else blah you know the score. Also helpful when trying to talk someone else through diagnosing a problem down a phone (thats never fun), good sanity check - is the LED lit?
Ultimately given your bandwidth, with some simple filtering I suspect you are going quite a way overboard, but there is merit and fun in that. As a silly example, with a series 1R and 10u cap on the output you are down over 50dB by 10Meg. Exchange the 1R for a well selected ferrite bead and you'll be closer to 100dB down, perhaps more. Suddenly your not looking so bad with an opamp and a large BJT - horrid and cheap.
I don't know what your total set is like but you may want to consider some common mode filtering on the output. I would be worried that even through you look to be floating(?) you will end up with some CM to diff conversion. I have a long term project where a very well balanced pick up coil with high CMRR is upset by a large transmit from another coil, the 'noise' should all be common mode and I am fully differential however I still get cross talk due to some tiny imbalance hence the CM begins to matter, usually more at high frequencies.
I have to say I don't ever design at frequencies above 100Mhz (ignoring clocks etc) so someone with real RF experience would be valuable here.
Sim your inductor/capacitor filters, you may well find you require a low value series R to damp. Also note that large package components do not like thermal cycling, so rapid cool down, or more likely taking them out of the -40 into ambient could ruin your day.
No harm making any thermal vias larger, Saturn PCB has a nice via calc showing thermal resistance of vias.
Not sure I have more practical internet advice to offer. Best of luck with what looks like a fun project. Will be watching with interest hoping that an RF wizard flys through with some old school advice.