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3 lead cr2032 cmos battery.. Uhm. Why?

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Gregg:

--- Quote from: SiliconWizard on May 11, 2020, 01:57:21 pm ---
--- Quote from: Gregg on May 11, 2020, 02:26:58 am ---The key to soldering copper wires to stainless or chrome plated steel is to first tin it with lead free solder containing silver and some of the nasty acid flux.

--- End quote ---

Thanks for the tip about silver. And beware of those acid fluxes. They tend to splash all over when reflowed. Wear safety glasses.

--- End quote ---
I started using the Sn96/Ag4 solder a long time ago when my next door neighbor had a restaurant and needed a rather large seam in a stainless steel steam table repaired.  I went to a welding supply and inquired about the proper solder that was also food grade.  They recommended this alloy and since it was only available in small lots or a 1 pound spool, I bought the spool for around $40 (this was 1968); now it sells for $150. I think they threw in a bottle of the flux.  It worked perfectly and I was amazed at how well it wetted alloys that regular leaded solder wouldn’t touch.  I’ve even soldered chrome plated plastic with this stuff.
I still have about ¼ of that spool and mostly use it with an old Weller soldering gun (cringe worthy on this forum) that I have a tip dedicated to this alloy solder.  It have used it to solder nickel strips to NiCad cells long before lithium cells became readily available and still use it today to replace lithium cells.  I believe the cross section of the soldered joint provides a better electrical connection than spot welds. 
To keep the heat transfer as low as possible, I use a hot tip and quickly tin the cell terminals and quickly wipe them with a damp sponge or rag to pull the heat away.  Then wash off the acid flux with detergent and warm water and an old tooth brush.  With both the nickel strips tinned and the batteries tinned, no flux is required to solder them together. 

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