Computing > General Computing

PSU: Measuring Current From SATA Connection?

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--- Quote from: Berni on August 02, 2021, 05:37:14 am ---It sounds like you are trying to do something that is not a actual supported feature of it.

I don't see why you would need to have the LED controller hub connected and powered from both the motherboard and SATA. And even then SATA is supposed to run from the same power rails that the motherboard runs from, so they should always both have power or both not have power simultaneously.

But i have no experience with this PC RGB lighting, I was never a fan of it, so none of my computers ever had it. Maybe they have some odd wiring conventions that i am not familiar of.

--- End quote ---

I just cut the MB's power wire to the ARGB hub. The ARGB hub is already powered by the SATA PSU connector. So, the only difference is that instead of the hub getting both the SATA power and the MB's ARGB riser power, the hub now only gets SATA power, which I am more ok with than the the way around. That, because cutting the MB power wire simply isolates the MB from the SATA ARGB hub, which is connected to the PSU SATA connection. In short, there is now no way for power to travel back trough the hub into the MB. I'm pretty sure soldering in a rectifier to the MB\s ARGB power wire going from the motherboard to the ARGB hub would do the same thing, while allowing the MB power to integrate into the hub along with SATA power and bringing up total current to 6.5 Amps (MB ARGB riser is rated at 2 Amps). In other words, the devices plugged into the ARGB hub would share both the MB and PSU's power.

The reason I like my solution better is that the MB will keep giving it's ARGB riser power until it melts the FETS. MB manufacturers haven't plugged that hole in ARGB/RGB yet. Back in the say, the same thing was the case with fan risers, where you could over load your fan risers and smoke them. From what I've researched, today MB's protect their fan risers by limiting current.

So to answer your question about powering from the MB and the PSU, I agree! I think that is a bad design on the ARGB hub maker's part. I solved it by cutting the power wire from the MB, while leaving the ground and digital signal wire intact.

I'd still like to have an external ARGB controller that doesn't limit current.


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