Your questionsWindows 10: any version will meet your needs. Pro just has some more corporate management features and bitlocker. They're all ad-filled junk (except maybe LTSC? Have not tried it yet).
USB: as other have said, as long as it's the traditional shape of USB port (referred to as 'type A') then anything you plug into it should work. USB3 type A ports are backwards compatible with USB2 type A ports, and look almost identical externally.
IMHO avoid type C if you can (make sure to get a laptop with at least some proper type A ports). It's a callback to the 90's where everything used the same DB9 serial cable but completely different protocols over it, so you only find out whether or not something is supported by your device by trying it (and by using the right type of magic cable that looks almost identical to the others from the outside). There are even situations where you have to unplug the connector, turn it around and plug it back in again (it's reversible) for things to work (some DP modes IIRC).
You can buy dongles that convert type C ports into type A, which you then carry around with your laptop. Dongle Life (TM).
A few other bits of adviceMake sure you're buying a laptop that uses a removable disk, whether it be an M.2 stick or a traditional SATA connector. A lot of laptops now come soldered-down MMC flash that cannot be upgraded (without research, prayer & reflow). When this flash dies the laptop becomes a brick. Lookup teardown photos of your model to find out if you're not sure.
Sadly less and less laptops have replaceable RAM these days, it's also often soldered in. Something to be aware of. Does not typically die, but can be annoying later on.
Touchscreens are more expensive than standard screens if/when you break the LCD. My laptop is a traditional screen with bezel that I can disassemble and replace for less than 100AUD, but touchscreens tend to be glued laminates.
EDIT: Don't waste your money on anti-virus products. Win10's in-built Windows Defender (enabled by default) has made them obsolete for home users.
If the laptop comes pre-installed with lots of junk by the manufacturer, then either re-install Win10 or use a
tool like BCU. Installing Win10 is pretty fast BUT you then have to wait ages afterwards for windows update to churn away in the background (often requiring reboots).
During initial win10 setup DO NOT CONNECT TO THE INTERNET. If you do then it will force you to create a Microsoft account. You literally have to hit "I don't have internet" a few times to convince the first time setup wizard to let you use a traditional local windows account instead. They have become
really heavy handed with this in the past few releases. Connect yourself after it's all done (and you may then get nagged a second time, but you can tell it to bugger off).
On that note: you can say no to everything checkbox/slider in the first time setup wizard (and later nagging prompts). It's all very cleverly worded data collection with little to no practical value for you in return.