POWER DESIGNS PRECISION POWER SUPPLIES

[motocoder]

I got one of the 6114As a while ago for $60 and the only problem was the paint flaking off the tens digit.  Taking it apart wasn't too bad, and I made a tool to shave off the heat welded divots of the plastic pegs.  Since it was only the one wheel, I was able to paint the numbers back with UV cured paint.  Not perfect, but it turned out more than adequate..

Those are really nice supplies.

I've got one here with missing paint on the zero of the hundredths digit. Beyond my skill to repaint it though - I'd just end up with more damaged digits. I like timb's idea of a vinyl stencil and spray paint.

[timb]

I got one of the 6114As a while ago for $60 and the only problem was the paint flaking off the tens digit.  Taking it apart wasn't too bad, and I made a tool to shave off the heat welded divots of the plastic pegs.  Since it was only the one wheel, I was able to paint the numbers back with UV cured paint.  Not perfect, but it turned out more than adequate..

Those are really nice supplies.

I've got one here with missing paint on the zero of the hundredths digit. Beyond my skill to repaint it though - I'd just end up with more damaged digits. I like timb's idea of a vinyl stencil and spray paint.

I can make up some vinyl stencils for you if you want to give it a go. I've actually got another 6114A here with damaged digits, so maybe I'll give it a go too. (This unit was in pretty bad shape. I need to locate a few parts before I can get it back together. Namely the mV pot and a front panel overlay in decent shape.)

[motocoder]

I got one of the 6114As a while ago for $60 and the only problem was the paint flaking off the tens digit.  Taking it apart wasn't too bad, and I made a tool to shave off the heat welded divots of the plastic pegs.  Since it was only the one wheel, I was able to paint the numbers back with UV cured paint.  Not perfect, but it turned out more than adequate..

Those are really nice supplies.

I've got one here with missing paint on the zero of the hundredths digit. Beyond my skill to repaint it though - I'd just end up with more damaged digits. I like timb's idea of a vinyl stencil and spray paint.

I can make up some vinyl stencils for you if you want to give it a go. I've actually got another 6114A here with damaged digits, so maybe I'll give it a go too. (This unit was in pretty bad shape. I need to locate a few parts before I can get it back together. Namely the mV pot and a front panel overlay in decent shape.)

Sure. I have a couple of spare wheels I can experiment on without risk. Please let me know what you need.

[iampoor]

Can you use any of the PD supplies in a constant current mode?

That will depend on the model.

I'd look at the front panel photos on eBay for a CV/CC selector switch as not all of their models have this. For example, my TP343B is strictly a CV unit with current limiting, while the 5005R has a CV/CC selector switch ring on the fine adjust pot.

Thanks! Maybe that will be one more reason to justify buying one. I dont have any supplies that can do CC in my lab.

[bitseeker]

Uh oh. Looks like we've ended up hijacking the PD thread into HP land. Before we get more good info in here, perhaps we should relocate and link to the timb/Pedro/motocoder 6114A restoration thread or start a new one for the 611x series.

(And then eBay prices will go up even more )

Adding links to the two big 6114A threads:

PedroDaGr8 https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/hp-6114a-precision-power-supply/
robrenz https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/hp-6114a-precision-power-supply-restoration/

[mtdoc]

Pretty good price for a decent looking 5020 just listed on ebay.  Too bad I can't justify another one of these excellent supplies.

[motocoder]

Pretty good price for a decent looking 5020 just listed on ebay.  Too bad I can't justify another one of these excellent supplies.

That does look pretty good, although that permanent marker on the front bezel might be hard to remove...

[bitseeker]

Tempting. The permanent marker could be tricky since the aluminum panel has a clearcoat on it. However, I find the applique on the left two voltage dials more annoying. This is one of those hybrid assemblies that have the stickered knobs on one side and the engraved or silkscreened ones on the other. It could also be that the silkscreen labels wore off and someone stuck their own on top.

[pelud]

Sweet! Thanks for the heads up.  Just got it

BTW, there are a couple 3K10B (3kV/10mA) supplies available at eBay auction: #252330600672.

[bitseeker]

Congrats, pelud. We look forward to hearing and seeing all about it when it arrives.

[saturation]

Thanks for the headsup on the 3K10B, rarer to find for sale, still used in many labs.  Got it.  If I've time I'll tear it down with photos for all as there is little on in on the net.

Sweet! Thanks for the heads up.  Just got it

BTW, there are a couple 3K10B (3kV/10mA) supplies available at eBay auction: #252330600672.

[pelud]

I made sure to get one before I posted on here   It didn't take long for these to sell!

Thanks for the headsup on the 3K10B, rarer to find for sale, still used in many labs.  Got it.  If I've time I'll tear it down with photos for all as there is little on in on the net.

Sweet! Thanks for the heads up.  Just got it

BTW, there are a couple 3K10B (3kV/10mA) supplies available at eBay auction: #252330600672.

[saturation]

Thanks pelud.  When I browsed for a kV PD design [ for some years! I might add] I always saw the "HV" models, which tended to be bulky and expensive.  I never knew about this series, or at least missed the rare posts on eevblog about it.  Seeing your post, it was a dream come true.  There is another on eBay that is 'as is' for $60 plus shipping, others are at ~$200.  FWIW new it was $700 in the mid-1990s. 

Currently I use an electrophoresis supply to generate up to 3kV but its a noisy SMPS.

I made sure to get one before I posted on here   It didn't take long for these to sell!

Thanks for the headsup on the 3K10B, rarer to find for sale, still used in many labs.  Got it.  If I've time I'll tear it down with photos for all as there is little on in on the net.

Sweet! Thanks for the heads up.  Just got it

BTW, there are a couple 3K10B (3kV/10mA) supplies available at eBay auction: #252330600672.

[mtdoc]

Those 2k10b's look nice!

Coincidently, over the past few months I've picked up a couple of old school Power Designs high voltage supplies. They were both cheap ebay deals and I couldn't help myself. . They both need some cleaning up but seem to work perfectly. My first test equipment with tubes!

I found a manual for the 2k10 online but no luck finding a manual for the HV-1547. Any lead on a manual for that one much apreciated.  I've already checked the usual sources.

I still need to make up some cables for the funky hv output connectors.

What I'll do with these guys i have no idea yet. I'm sure I'll think of something. Ideas welcome!

.

[bitseeker]

I've seen some of those HV supplies go by, but I don't have a (known) use for them. I'll be interested to hear what you all do with them.

[saturation]

I commonly use it for dielectric test or test rated maximum working voltage, to part's failure.

A big problem today is counterfeit or substandard parts, or parts that are quite old.  While the parts we get from the proper supply chains [ e.g. Digikey] can unlikely be counterfeit, for my personal use I get surplus or whatever from eBay or worse.  A simple way to test its not likely counterfeit is if it lives up to its spec sheet, or a test that hinges on quality materials and manufacture, the dielectric withstand test.

If not a PD supply, you can get a Hi Pot or Insulation tester on eBay for about the same price, best capable of up to 3-5kV.   

Industrial HiPot testers tend to be heavily ab/used in life and when sold on eBay, and may not have much life left. 

$<200 new insulation testers from China are a good low cost substitute but they are commonly not continuously variable.

In general, brand name lab supplies of any type OTAH tend to be taken care off so they are better buys.

[ez24]

I'll be interested to hear what you all do with them.

What I wonder is can these be turned on via an AC switch to full voltage?  If so maybe a remote critter killer can be made.  I am trying to catch a mouse that has evaded 15 traps so far.  I have a remote camera set up and I watch him check out every trap and it goes as far as the last step..
I bought every trap Home Depot sells except glue traps (just cannot go that far)

I have tried live traps first, then electric traps, then spring traps.

I wonder if I could rig something up and hit a remote switch that would turn on the unit.  I could place all the gadgets away and use wires and plates.  The main thing it would have to come on fast at the highest voltage, no ramping up.

Wonder if anyone has done this? 

[saturation]

Victor traps seem to have the market premade in e- traps:

http://www.amazon.com/Victor-Electronic-Rat-Trap-M240/dp/B000LNX06C

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E1RIUU

Links have photos.

[ez24]

Victor traps seem to have the market premade in e- traps:

http://www.amazon.com/Victor-Electronic-Rat-Trap-M240/dp/B000LNX06C

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E1RIUU

Links have photos.

I have 2 Victor electronic mouse traps (I do not have rats).  They take the food all the to the last plate.  He (or they) wil not take the last step in order to make contact from the last plate 

I guess from an ozone smell from the charged plates.

[motocoder]

Victor traps seem to have the market premade in e- traps:

http://www.amazon.com/Victor-Electronic-Rat-Trap-M240/dp/B000LNX06C

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E1RIUU

Links have photos.

I have 2 Victor electronic mouse traps (I do not have rats).  They take the food all the to the last plate.  He (or they) wil not take the last step in order to make contact from the last plate 

I guess from an ozone smell from the charged plates.

Maybe enable the voltage with some sort of proximity sensor then.

[saturation]

I guess you have to mod it, some of the Amazon reviews talk about your problem.  Some have enlarged the plates, or put a wet towel to insure the mice's feet were conductive.

To prevent the bait from being removed and not tripping the trap I wrap a piece of meat with one entire spool of cotton thread.  The meat is underneath layers of thread.  The thread soaked into the meat, so they could smell and maybe sample it, but had to dig and struggle into the thread to try to reach the meat, always triggering the trap.  I could use a trap repeatedly made this way for 2 weeks or more and caught many mice with one bait.  After repeated use the thread would be torn up eventually and thus need redoing.

I have 2 Victor electronic mouse traps (I do not have rats).  They take the food all the to the last plate.  He (or they) wil not take the last step in order to make contact from the last plate 
I guess from an ozone smell from the charged plates.

[bitseeker]

I commonly use it for dielectric test or test rated maximum working voltage, to part's failure.

A big problem today is counterfeit or substandard parts, or parts that are quite old.

Ah, OK. That is good to do when sourcing parts from who-knows-where.

[pelud]

I got the Power Designs 5020 Last Week. Here is a mini teardown:

[Vgkid]

I got the Power Designs 5020 Last Week. Here is a mini teardown.

Turn it over, then tear it down.

[bitseeker]

Not bad. Needs some general cleaning, as usual. Looking forward to seeing the other side of the main PCB.