UNI-T UT61E Multimeter teardown photos.

[PedroDaGr8]

Close, the "new" scope is the apparently quieter LeCroy 9410 with all options (including FFT). This one isn't that loud at all, more of a gentle purr. I picked it up locally for $120 with two tek 10x probes thrown in for free.

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[notzippy]

Noticed on the website the UT61E is supposed to have a backlight http://www.uni-trend.com/UT61E.html , although the manual indicates otherwise. anyone know what is correct ? Looking at the first post it appears there is no backlight, but things can change..

thx
Nz

[Lightages]

The UT61E does not have a back light.

[mariush]

It also says sleep mode 15 minutes while there's no such mode. 

No, imho, it's just bad data. The english version of the site is not really updated, check the chinese version always:

http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.uni-trend.com.cn%2Fcp-show.asp%3Fyy%3D%25D6%25D0%25CE%25C4%26ProductNO%3D481&act=url

(^^Google Translate above) No backlight and sleep here.

[Electro Fan]

...Plus more multimeters is always priceless and enables to do alot more things....Unless they come out with a multimeter with multiple isolated channels, those things are hard to beat when combined.

I am reasonably happy with the 61E.  I already have 3 others - 2 radioshack and a DT830B.  But I actually was thinking about getting a couple more  DT830B's when I was playing around with boost circuits:
In Volt, in current, out Volt, out current, drain current, that is 4 right there.  I could use another one to do adhoc readings.

One of my 4 is a DT830B, $6 DMM, not bad.  I use it as my volt meter for my PSU.  It actually performs better than the other cheapos from Radio Shack (4-8 years old).  So I was considering getting a pair of DT830B.  But I hate all those stuff on my table leaving me so little space.

I would not invest in another mid-low end DMMs.  If I would get more DMMs, I will probably aim for a higher end ones or real cheapies.  Mean time, I just got my ATMega328 as Volt/Current meter working on a breadboard and ordered parts to transfer it to PCB.  I divided up the 6 ADC's as 3 pairs of volt+current (switch-selectable) 0 - 5/15/30Volt and fixed 0-4Amp (using a 0.1ohm as current sense and amplified with OpAmp).  The two pairs I have working gets me +-1% to 4% accuracy.  Not bad when I have not yet calibrated them yet.  After I get the parts, I can get the 3rd pair working, transfer it to PCB, and then I'll do some software tricks (the ADC under-reads at low ranges).  If I can bring it closer to 1-2% using my UT61E as "accurate" reference, I just may end up using the ATMega as my PSU's volt+current.  All three channels shares common ground, so it took me a while to figure out how I would make that work for me.  If the thing works (at +- 1-2%), I don't need the DT830B's as volt/current meter.  If it doesn't, well, I learned a lot trying to get it working so far.

Please keep us posted on how your Atmega328 meter reading project is going - I'm sure some folks would be up for trying your design if you want to share it.  Thx

[notzippy]

It also says sleep mode 15 minutes while there's no such mode. 

No, imho, it's just bad data. The english version of the site is not really updated, check the chinese version always:

http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=auto&tl=en&js=n&prev=_t&hl=en&ie=UTF-8&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.uni-trend.com.cn%2Fcp-show.asp%3Fyy%3D%25D6%25D0%25CE%25C4%26ProductNO%3D481&act=url

(^^Google Translate above) No backlight and sleep here.

Thanks, the picture on their site certainly looks like its backlight. Although your right about the specs stating "background light" is definitely not checked. Not really a deal breaker for me, just trying to get the best bang for the buck these days..

Nz

[Rick Law]

...Plus more multimeters is always priceless and enables to do alot more things....Unless they come out with a multimeter with multiple isolated channels, those things are hard to beat when combined.

I am reasonably happy with the 61E.  I already have 3 others - 2 radioshack and a DT830B.  But I actually was thinking about getting a couple more  DT830B's when I was playing around with boost circuits:
In Volt, in current, out Volt, out current, drain current, that is 4 right there.  I could use another one to do adhoc readings.

One of my 4 is a DT830B, $6 DMM, not bad.  I use it as my volt meter for my PSU.  It actually performs better than the other cheapos from Radio Shack (4-8 years old).  So I was considering getting a pair of DT830B.  But I hate all those stuff on my table leaving me so little space.

I would not invest in another mid-low end DMMs.  If I would get more DMMs, I will probably aim for a higher end ones or real cheapies.  Mean time, I just got my ATMega328 as Volt/Current meter working on a breadboard and ordered parts to transfer it to PCB.  I divided up the 6 ADC's as 3 pairs of volt+current (switch-selectable) 0 - 5/15/30Volt and fixed 0-4Amp (using a 0.1ohm as current sense and amplified with OpAmp).  The two pairs I have working gets me +-1% to 4% accuracy.  Not bad when I have not yet calibrated them yet.  After I get the parts, I can get the 3rd pair working, transfer it to PCB, and then I'll do some software tricks (the ADC under-reads at low ranges).  If I can bring it closer to 1-2% using my UT61E as "accurate" reference, I just may end up using the ATMega as my PSU's volt+current.  All three channels shares common ground, so it took me a while to figure out how I would make that work for me.  If the thing works (at +- 1-2%), I don't need the DT830B's as volt/current meter.  If it doesn't, well, I learned a lot trying to get it working so far.

Please keep us posted on how your Atmega328 meter reading project is going - I'm sure some folks would be up for trying your design if you want to share it.  Thx

Sure, I will share what I learn.  I am learning some interesting stuff at least for me the newbie.

I am working on it on my spare time, so it will take at least another one or two months.

[george graves]

The UT61E does not have a back light.

I was planning on adding one - but the display is so sharp and clear, that you can see it in even the dimmest of rooms.  It's better then a fluke 87-5.

[algorath]

i recently had to open mine up for repair. the A range was somehow shorted with the Hz, or Ohms i dont remember. turns out there was some sort of debree (im guessing from the pcb) that got stuck on the range switch. also one of the range springs was kinda corroded 

[form]

Has anybody seen software-bugs on that DMM, too?
Sometimes the autoranging fails and instead of changing the range, the displayed value is just wrong.
Very dangerous...

[Monkeh]

Has anybody seen software-bugs on that DMM, too?

It has no software.

Sometimes the autoranging fails and instead of changing the range, the displayed value is just wrong.
Very dangerous...

I have yet to have this occur.

[mariush]

Has anybody seen software-bugs on that DMM, too?

It has no software.

Sometimes the autoranging fails and instead of changing the range, the displayed value is just wrong.
Very dangerous...

I have yet to have this occur.

The update rate is 2 times per second on the UT61E. 
When changing ranges, it happens that one update is messed up (sometimes it just moves the dot instead of dropping a decimal, for example when going from 22.124v to 25.12v, you get 251.24 or something like that). But this is basically shown for half a second (one update) with the next update half a second later, the correct value is shown.

Once you get used to it, it's not dangerous at all and these erroneous values can be easily scrubbed out of log file, if you do data logging.

[Monkeh]

Has anybody seen software-bugs on that DMM, too?

It has no software.

Sometimes the autoranging fails and instead of changing the range, the displayed value is just wrong.
Very dangerous...

I have yet to have this occur.

The update rate is 2 times per second on the UT61E. 
When changing ranges, it happens that one update is messed up (sometimes it just moves the dot instead of dropping a decimal, for example when going from 22.124v to 25.12v, you get 251.24 or something like that). But this is basically shown for half a second (one update) with the next update half a second later, the correct value is shown.

Once you get used to it, it's not dangerous at all and these erroneous values can be easily scrubbed out of log file, if you do data logging.

I'm well aware of that particular issue, that is not what he described.

[safetyfirst]

See page 41 of the Uni-T Series 61x Operating Manual.  The 61E does NOT have a Backlight or a Sleep mode / Auto Power Off (APO).  I cannot post the entire manual as the pdf is almost 5MB.

[Lightages]

The UT61E is a nice meter for the price, but don't expect too much out of it. For a 22,000 count meter with many good features it is a good buy. Keep it on the bench and don't even show anything high energy or high voltage. If you want something safer, then you have to do with lower specs or higher price to keep the same specs.

[Wytnucls]

Has anybody seen software-bugs on that DMM, too?
Sometimes the autoranging fails and instead of changing the range, the displayed value is just wrong.
Very dangerous...

Nobody else has ever experienced anything like that. There could be a fault with your meter. Did you capture it on video?

[algorath]

the lack of backlight and auto power off are really strange. what´s that cost, 1$? personally i don´t miss a backlight too much. but i´ve had my batterie drained a couple of times cause i left the damn thing on for 2 days straight good thing i got recharchable 9vs
btw, there´s an easy tutorial on yt on how to add backlight

[user4963]

Hi .
Please help me. I dont know. it: C11b*,C11a*,C10a*,C9a*,C9b*,C8a*,C8b*                   ?
and If the circuit diagram of this model. Do you know download on

[PedroDaGr8]

Hi .
Please help me. I dont know. it: C11b*,C11a*,C10a*,C9a*,C9b*,C8a*,C8b*                   ?
and If the circuit diagram of this model. Do you know download on

If I remember correctly it appears the * means alternate locations. I don't know if they are there to allow them to source cheaper parts or what but often they are not populated.

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[Lightages]

I would guess that they are values that are subject to change or adjustment for trimming accuracy. Here is the schematic.

[user4963]

I would guess that they are values that are subject to change or adjustment for trimming accuracy. Here is the schematic.

That not schematic. ?t ic 1778 ? and How do I find the values ??of these elements.
Multimeter shows wrong value. 1K play in resistance measurement.

Please somebody help me. How do find ic 1778 schematic ( or ic 1778 datasheet )

[Lightages]

That is the schematic. I don't know what you are asking.

[Legit-Design]

I would guess that they are values that are subject to change or adjustment for trimming accuracy. Here is the schematic.

That not schematic. ?t ic 1778 ? and How do I find the values ??of these elements.
Multimeter shows wrong value. 1K play in resistance measurement.

Please somebody help me. How do find ic 1778 schematic ( or ic 1778 datasheet )

To my knowledge "ic 1778", that black thing next to those smd capacitors, is precision hybrid resistor network or similar. Please take  picture of the resistor you are measuring and how you are measuring it. I think the problem might lie in your measurements also. If you measure 5% resistor, its value might be +-5% of what is actually says on the resistor. Also don't measure resistors directly in circuit it might cause faulty readings. Since there is a language barrier taking pictures might be easiest thing to do.

[user4963]

That is the schematic. I don't know what you are asking.

The diagram C11a*,C11b*,.... no.I'm looking for these values

[user4963]

I would guess that they are values that are subject to change or adjustment for trimming accuracy. Here is the schematic.

That not schematic. ?t ic 1778 ? and How do I find the values ??of these elements.
Multimeter shows wrong value. 1K play in resistance measurement.

Please somebody help me. How do find ic 1778 schematic ( or ic 1778 datasheet )

Thank you
10k resistor.. Multimeter 9.205 measure vicinity

To my knowledge "ic 1778", that black thing next to those smd capacitors, is precision hybrid resistor network or similar. Please take  picture of the resistor you are measuring and how you are measuring it. I think the problem might lie in your measurements also. If you measure 5% resistor, its value might be +-5% of what is actually says on the resistor. Also don't measure resistors directly in circuit it might cause faulty readings. Since there is a language barrier taking pictures might be easiest thing to do.