Flir E4 Thermal imaging camera teardown

[Taucher]

I had replaced my battery with a higher capacity battery so I decided to unsolder the board in the pack and take some close up shots.
Here ya go.
Lighting was a little tough... sorry for the quality.
There are two fets wired in parallel.
I don't know what the small chip is, but guess it is a regulator?
R3 is a 10k NTC thermistor.
The two fets are upside down because this was the way I could get good lighting, but you can read the number.

Nice images! - did you capture full PCB shots of both sides?

[pomonabill221]

Sure... forgot to attach it.
This is before I unsoldered it from the battery compartment.
It was a challenge! 
Here ya go!
Thank you Taucher...
I really didn't get a full image of the top of the board with all the components, but the "overall" picture is the biggest I took... shows almost all of the board though.

[hgg]

What cells did it have inside?  Any specs?

[Jaimslaw]

Question: A 2nd E4 I bought for my company did not take the hack.  I used Wordpad as the text editor - probably one possible problem (used a freeware text editor and everything went fine for the 2nd camera).  Anyways, on the one that didn't take, it did go through its updated e8.cfg message - just no enhanced resolution.   In making a 2nd attempt, can I just try the hack again -  or should I run the Remove_hack" fif file and then take another stab at it?  It would seem that re-doing the hack is just an update of that e8 config file.

As always: read the instructions (again and again) - remember the hack is tied to the serial number so maybe forgot to change it?
... and again: check out EzCRC01 (see my footer) if you have problems computing the correct CRC01

Also: tell us which SW version your camera "to be hacked" has - and keep e8.cfg with lowercase "E".
If you're using RNDIS mode (recommended) then you can FTP the config directly without the need for a .FIF.

It has the firmware ver 1.19.8.  Between the two "enhancement" efforts, I know that the second one that took was with me being much more methodical in each step.  I did have the right serial number, and generated the correct 2nd number, but i may not have left a blank line after that 2nd CRC01 number (did so after the serial number insertion step).  I will also double check that little e in the config file name to see if that was the culprit.

Am now bringing myself up to speed on the use of ftp  and it does seem to be an easier way to replace the camera's modified config files.  Evidently, I will be using ftp for the menu "hack"

[And thanks for weighing in.  Forget to mention this in last post, but when it comes time for us to take over your planet, you will be spared]

[pomonabill221]

What cells did it have inside?  Any specs?

The original cell was an 18650, 2600mAh.
I replace it with an 18650, 3200mAh.
Not a big difference, but I had one.
I don't know if the original was a protected cell or not.
It was a samsung ICR18650-26H so Flir uses good batteries..

[hgg]

Thanks for the info!  I am planning a similar upgrade.
The length of the battery will be a good indication if it is protected or not.

One of the best 18650s out there are from Panasonic.
http://www.fasttech.com/product/1141104-panasonic-ncr18650b-protected-rechargeable

How many cells?

What cells did it have inside?  Any specs?

The original cell was an 18650, 2600mAh.
I replace it with an 18650, 3200mAh.
Not a big difference, but I had one.
I don't know if the original was a protected cell or not.
It was a samsung ICR18650-26H so Flir uses good batteries..

[pomonabill221]

Thanks for the info!  I am planning a similar upgrade.
The length of the battery will be a good indication if it is protected or not.

One of the best 18650s out there are from Panasonic.
http://www.fasttech.com/product/1141104-panasonic-ncr18650b-protected-rechargeable

How many cells?

What cells did it have inside?  Any specs?

The original cell was an 18650, 2600mAh.
I replace it with an 18650, 3200mAh.
Not a big difference, but I had one.
I don't know if the original was a protected cell or not.
It was a samsung ICR18650-26H so Flir uses good batteries..

Just one cell... that is 99.9% of the battery volume.

I do have a post showing an 18650 standing next to the battery holder for comparison.

Just a FYI... the Flir battery has some double backed tape on it, so when you separate the two halves, the are stuck together by the tape on the battery.

DO NOT SQUEEZE the battery holder!  I did and slightly flattened the original cell... didn't damage it though, but would have if I had squeezed it any more!

The halves are glued together.. I did try Mike's method but it didn't work too well (hitting it with a hard tool).
Tried squeezing to pop the glue seam, but didn't work too well.

Also tried a small, sharp screwdriver.. kinda worked BUT the board is at the top, and the battery is right there, so BE CAREFUL and take your time!

The metal contact strips are spot welded to the battery, but I soldered them back on the new battery... use a HOT iron with a tip that has some mass, get on then off as fast as you can as heat can (will) damage the battery!!!

[hgg]

Thanks for the tips!

They are running the E4 on a single cell  ?!?
Crazy.  They should have at least made it removable.
But now they will charge you $50 for a replacement battery, when you can get the best for just $17...

[amyk]

An 18650 has a lot more energy than e.g. an AA battery, although not being that much bigger. Mike measured the power consumption in one of the videos, I can't remember the numbers but it lasts a few hours of continuous use.

[hgg]

You can draw more current from the 18650 and have more juice as well.

Why not last double the time and also have removable 18650 batteries?...
Or at least a single removable battery that its easier.

[pomonabill221]

I got 4.5 hours of continuous running out of mine before it shut off!
Need to measure the voltage when it shuts off though.

[lewis]

Lunevalley3D in the UK offer an excellent service at very reasonable cost, with no set up fee and at-cost postage.

Take a look at my FLIR Useful Information thread for images and details. The lens adapter for an auxiliary lens cost me only GBP4 ($6) in black ABS.

Unfortunately they can't print the tripod adapter for me because "they are listed under a 'non-commercial' licence". Any further ideas?

[mrflibble]

Unfortunately they can't print the tripod adapter for me because "they are listed under a 'non-commercial' licence". Any further ideas?

Ey? How would a private individual wanting to have something printed for private use be a violation of that non-commercial license?

[daves]

How would a private individual wanting to have something printed for private use be a violation of that non-commercial license?

Not him, but the company who will print it. Because they print it for money = commercial use. Imho. Anyway stupid.

[mrflibble]

How would a private individual wanting to have something printed for private use be a violation of that non-commercial license?

Not him, but the company who will print it. Because they print it for money = commercial use. Imho. Anyway stupid.

That's like going to the copy shop to print a free for non-commercial use document, and then having it refused on the grounds of the above defunct logic.

So, toggle a bit somewhere and tell them it is yours. Then online you attribute it to the original creator, problem solved.

[Fraser]

Confused !

Which tripod adapter are you printing ? I printed Georges80 adapters without incident. Ask the originator of the STL to make it acceptable for printing so that you can submit it.

I did not realise that such restrictions existed.

[Fraser]

A comment regarding the upgrade of the Lithium battery

The charge management chip in the EXTERNAL charger pod has a safety timer built into it that will stop the charge process after a set period of time even if the battery is not charged fully. I am not aware of the charge management chip used in the E4 itself but if it has a similar timer you may find that a larger capacity cell is not fully charged as a result of a time-out.

Also.... FLIR have used a good quality cell in the OEM battery. One of the challenges for me in the past has been sourcing reasonably priced quality cells. I have been warned that most that come out of China via eBay are basically a case of Russian Roulette.....some OK and some useless ! Where Li-Ion cells are concerned I am very safety conscious as I do not fancy a Li-Ion instigated fire in my house.

[daves]

most that come out of China ... are basically a case of Russian Roulette

Buy only proved ones based on some review with capacity measurements. Never buy blindly the cheapest ones.

[Scutarius]

Lunevalley3D in the UK offer an excellent service at very reasonable cost, with no set up fee and at-cost postage.

Take a look at my FLIR Useful Information thread for images and details. The lens adapter for an auxiliary lens cost me only GBP4 ($6) in black ABS.

Unfortunately they can't print the tripod adapter for me because "they are listed under a 'non-commercial' licence". Any further ideas?

Maybe you are talking about my adapter, I changed the licence.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:244381

Please be careful, it's not a perfect design and it will be holding a lot of money.

[uski]

Since FLIR seem to be clamping down in the E4 modification, does this have any affect on the E40's? The E40's have been out a few years, is it safe to say that they will not bother this model?

I'd expect Exx becoming "hackproofed" as well - the urgency with E4 seems higher due to lower pricepoint.

Wait, you mean I can buy a E40 and make it an E60 ?

[tomas123]

Wait, you mean I can buy a E40 and make it an E60 ?

yes, see my (list of contents) post here
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/flir-e4-thermal-imaging-camera-teardown/msg380296/#msg380296

and read the e40 story from user emptech until February 05, 2014 
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/profile/?area=showposts;u=92207

user funzt upgraded the E30 with WiFi and Bluetooth to 320x240 
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/flir-e4-thermal-imaging-camera-teardown/msg338671/#msg338671

[uski]

Thank you tomas123

I scored an open box E30 from tequipment.net, 15% discount (but full warranty), a deal !

I just hope I can hack it !...

I'll let you know if I manage to do it.
But from what I read, it should be possible ?
If anyone did it PLEASE send me a PM ! Thanks, it will help me sleep better while waiting for it...

Have a nice day,
uski

[grego]

I have it from reliable sources that all the stock tequipment.net has from their Feb 5 shipment is not yet to 1.21.  I know one person had posted their wasn't but I wanted to throw it out there that the 65 (less now obviously) they received are all pre-1.21 firmware from what I understand.

[pomonabill221]

A comment regarding the upgrade of the Lithium battery

The charge management chip in the EXTERNAL charger pod has a safety timer built into it that will stop the charge process after a set period of time even if the battery is not charged fully. I am not aware of the charge management chip used in the E4 itself but if it has a similar timer you may find that a larger capacity cell is not fully charged as a result of a time-out.

Also.... FLIR have used a good quality cell in the OEM battery. One of the challenges for me in the past has been sourcing reasonably priced quality cells. I have been warned that most that come out of China via eBay are basically a case of Russian Roulette.....some OK and some useless ! Where Li-Ion cells are concerned I am very safety conscious as I do not fancy a Li-Ion instigated fire in my house.

Thank you for your info.
I did tests to make sure the battery is getting fully charged.
First I charged with an external power supply to 3.2V limited to 1.5A.
Then I load tested them.
Then I charged in the Flir.
Load tested again.
The times were the same in both cases.

I have a electronic dummy load that I set at 0.5 amps and 1.5 amps, and had 6 18650 batteries of unknown quality and age, even though they were Samsung and Panasonics.

I discharged them to 3.0volts and monitored the discharge curves with a pen chart recorder to see the curves.
Three of the old samsung batteries ran for about 60 minutes, but I knew that because they were old laptop batteries.

The original Flir battery ran for 90 minutes at 1.5 amps, and the Panasonic ran for 120 minutes.
This proved to me that the Panasonic was genuine.

Those trustfire and ANY battery claiming over 3200 mAh IS FAKE.  THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS A 4000/5000 mAh LiIon!!!  Even those that claim 3200 mAh can be fake as well.

Here is a VERY good website comparing over 22 18650 batteries:
http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Common18650Summary%20UK.html

[emptech]

You realize when a battery is measured for it's ampere-hour rating, the discharge is not done
continuous but over a 24 hour period, giving the battery a chance to "rest."  Although your method
will give you an idea of the battery's capabilities and give you a benchmark.

From the video, Flour, sure they were not smuggling some other white powder?  Ha ha.

I've always wanted to own a small spot welder, as you know, soldering to a cell is very bad for
the cell and can ruin it.  Right, apply the heat quickly and cool the cell right away.

So, it is believed the battery management circuit is in the camera and not the battery?  If it was in
the battery, the camera would have to have a data link to read the status.  It would be interesting to
find of your new, larger battery, gets fully charged.

Same Pamona, home of Cal-Poly?

Jim


Thank you for your info.
I did tests to make sure the battery is getting fully charged.
First I charged with an external power supply to 3.2V limited to 1.5A.
Then I load tested them.
Then I charged in the Flir.
Load tested again.
The times were the same in both cases.



Here is a VERY good website comparing over 22 18650 batteries:
http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Common18650Summary%20UK.html
[/quote]