A look at the Uni-T UT210E

[indman]

It's the nature of the DC clamp..    200mA does seem a bit high.   I've posted about how to trim the pots and degauss them if things get really bad to where you can't zero them.   Assuming the meter reads correctly as you sweep the current, I would just leave it.

Hi, guys! I also became the owner of UT210E!
Measurement of a direct current pincers not so simple task as seems.
In fact they measure a constant magnetic field which can be from anything, even from a metalwork nearby therefore resetting to zero before measurement is mandatory.
I recorded video of process of resetting to zero of the current indications in the DC mode at UT210E. This method allows to reduce residual indications in the mode of measurement of a direct current (DC 2A Dotless, 2A,20A,100A) without the need for EEPROM correction without the programmator. Thanks of kDnZP from a Russian-speaking forum!

ATTENTION! To do only if there is a backup copy of EEPROM!

1. To switch off device.
2. To clamp HOLD+SELECT and to switch to the "resistance, ring-up, diode, condenser" mode.
3. To see a text of "CAL", to release the HOLD+SELECT buttons
4. To wait. To wait long and not to hurry. To wait so far there will pass all self-tests until squeaks, then still to wait and wait for the moment when there are changing indications of the millivoltmeter. I.e. when the self-test will be completely passable, it will take ~ 2-3 minutes.
5. Further it is possible to switch the selector on 20A, to press the ZERO button and to nullify indications. At the same time the instrument in hand not to hold, give time for that that indications calmed down, to place the instrument where least of all el./magn. noises and the more so far away from magnets.
6. To switch the selector on 2A and to repeat the same as in point 5.
7. If necessary it is possible to modify values on other interesting ranges
8. On the end of calibration - to transfer the selector to "OFF"
9. To switch on ut201e and to check indications, if necessary - to repeat.

The link to video which explains this process.
https://yadi.sk/d/03JDsZLB37xiTf

[dav]

Does it work fine with NiMh rechargeable batteries?

[Chalcogenide]

Not really. I tried mine and as soon as the batteries were not fresh off the charger the meter started to show the low battery indicator. To solve it, I made a custom 400mAh LiPo + 3.3V LDO board that fits in the battery compartment and it works fine - all because I really hate primary batteries because they tend to leak. I used an XC6206 3.3V LDO and a TP4056E LiPo charger module. The only problem is that you risk discharging the LiPo battery quite low, so I just top up the charge every once in a while.

[bitseeker]

That's good to know, Chalcogenide. I haven't yet tried rechargeables in mine. I don't like alkalines, either, but will use up the ones that came with it before switching to a rechargeable of some kind. The LiPo mod sounds interesting.

[Circlotron]

Does it work fine with NiMh rechargeable batteries?

Mine drifted a bit on DC current ranges with them.
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/a-look-at-the-uni-t-ut210e/msg729935/#msg729935

[miksu]

Hello everyone, I registered for this as I've been reading eevblog forums, but because I must have skipped the electronics class I don't have anything to contribute If you want to know something about diesel or direct injected combustion processes, exhaust after treatments or electric cars as in high voltage high power DC electronics, battery packs and bms systems, big PMAC motors and so on I may know something about those

I have a UT210E and I really like it. All I wish it had DC amps range beyond 100A (and temperature mode and frequency and duty cycle and...). So I figured I would try to hack it but I could not figure how to add or change that through eeprom. I know large currents will magnetize it but that doesn't bother me. So I figured I would get the 210D which has 200A DC amps range but only 10mA resolution and see if the that eeprom would have any pointers. Unfortunately I am pretty bad at this sort of stuff so I failed.

So the differences are: UT210D has 10mA resolution and 200A max (vs. 100A and 1mA) and has temp and hz modes.

Here is a dump of the UT210D eeprom

Code: [Select]

FF FF FF FF FF 00 80 B0 04 E8 03 FA 00 00 BB 03
70 17 98 08 C3 00 3D 3D 3C 3C FF 16 14 FF 40 FF
26 98 19 81 AD 00 96 00 00 80 17 80 FB 7E 38 75
4E 02 09 F3 01 09 1D 02 0B AE 15 0A EB 00 0A 00
00 01 00 01 00 07 98 00 64 00 64 00 64 00 00 00
C2 92 E3 77 78 7D AB 7D 00 00 00 00 F7 FF 00 00
E4 7F 2E 7F 01 00 AD 2A 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
A1 7F 00 80 23 7F E0 7C 79 06 00 00 00 00 00 00
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 18 00 00 00 19 13 1E 04 07
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 15 00 1F 09
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 05 0A
00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 0B
0D 00 02 30 0D 00 03 20 20 00 03 20 20 00 03 10
41 00 03 08 41 00 03 05 41 00 03 05 0D 00 02 30
00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 00 80 90 01 BC 02 E8 03
90 01 BC 02 E8 03 00 80 5A C7 EF 0F 0F 80 00 00

Attached are comparison pictures. I was surprised the layout is actually a little different as are the "slots" for the selector wheel inside the eeprom. I think this means different pins on the chip as well.

I tried using the D models hz and temp and so on on the E model but they just show a blank screen. Also tried swapping the entire eeprom but no luck. So far I have failed to make E model range beyond 100A, show frequency or temperature or b) have the D model go down to milliamp resolution.

To make one of these the perfect little meter I would need 1mA resolution and scale up to 150-200A and have temperature and hz mode (and whatever else can be made to work).

Also attached is a comparison of the roms. Yellow and blue are knows bits, orange is different and unkown. (64 is 100, no luck with 100A limit).

Here are the mode bits from both meters. The Hz (1F) is interesting because it is not listed in the datasheet.

2A DC   16
2A AC   17
20A DC   18 (20/200 auto in D model)
20A AC   19 (20/200 auto in D model)
100A DC   1A
100A AC   1B
NCV   1E
Resistance (auto)   07
Continuity   09
Diode   0A
Capacitance (auto)   0B
Voltage DC (auto)   05
Voltage AC (auto)   04
Hz   1F
Temp C   13
Temp F    15

[indman]

miksu,the DTM0660 chip also has the firmware which differs for each specific model of the instrument.

[miksu]

miksu,the DTM0660 chip also has the firmware which differs for each specific model of the instrument.

Yea I was kind of hoping they would use the same layout and firmware, or at least leave some extra functionality in there but so far there is nothing. Now I wonder what would happen if you'd transplant a fully featured chip or firmware from another multimeter

[tronde]

miksu,the DTM0660 chip also has the firmware which differs for each specific model of the instrument.

Yea I was kind of hoping they would use the same layout and firmware, or at least leave some extra functionality in there but so far there is nothing. Now I wonder what would happen if you'd transplant a fully featured chip or firmware from another multimeter

Have you seen the documentation for HY12P66 that is believed to be the same chip as DTM0660?
http://hycontek.com/e-page2-HY12P.html

It's a lot more detailed than what's available to us for DTM0660.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6fbSrbAyU1lUlhBQXY3bS1RLU0/view
and
http://www.kerrywong.com/2016/04/03/dtm0660-datasheet-translated/

[digsys]

GREAT !! Something else I have to buy .... and hack !!

[mtdoc]

I just got one of these from Amazon for $33 dollars.

I really like the small size and the build quality appears very good for the price.

I have a larger Fluke clamp meter.  I also have a GTC CM100 which is good for milli-amps but the smaller clamp size does not work for auto battery cables.

The UT210E combo of small size, milli-amp resolution and with jaws large enough to accommodate battery cables was just what I was looking for.

I don't need better than 2000 count resolution and the accuracy when checked against my Agilent U1252b for both current and voltage is very good.

Very good value IMO 

[Fennec]

I don't need better than 2000 count resolution and the accuracy..........

U need it so do it.

Check out Joe's channel, than you understand why you have to hack it. )

And much more interesting Videos about measurement and Hacks.

[mtdoc]

I don't need better than 2000 count resolution and the accuracy..........

U need it so do it.

Check out Joe's channel, than you understand why you have to hack it. )

Ha! Thanks - I've read through the thread. Pretty cool hacks but I have no need for better than 2000 counts and 1KHz for my intended use.

[Kbird]

Anyone willing to test two new eeprom mods?  It gives two new functions in 2A mode.  Its reported on the Russian site that these functions still have the full count even after zeroing out (i.e. doesn't go back to 2000).  The LCD does not show a "." in the read out.

Update:  Tested the DCA 0000 function in 2A and it truly works even after zeroing out. 

Code: [Select]

       old      new
 A7: 00 1C - DCA 0000 in 2A mode / SELECT slot 3
 B7: 00 1D - ACA 0000 in 2A mode / SELECT slot 4

Hi , I finally picked a 210E , having read this thread a while back and thanks to FlyWheelz's pic of the Hookup and his .ino file , I now have a Modded 210E . 

However I noticed the post above has different hex codes for A7 and B7 than the .ino so I am wonder if the INO was ever updated so it's correct or I need to make these changes too ? though looking at the INO or the post on page 8 these addresses seem to be for the ALARMS , not for adding modes to 2A mode ? 

Earlier in the thread on Page 4 I also notice some of Macboys' changes are different than Flywheelz too...or was that just personal preference?

Did I perhaps miss something on the thread ? or was there a finalized list of recommended Changes perhaps?

Thanks for any help....

KB

[Electro Detective]

Hey guys, in case it hasn't been covered, does this clamp (not modded) give true RMS readings in the AC milliamp range,
or only applicable to the volts input?

How well does it work from 0 to 100 ma AC? solid readings or 'all over the shop' ? 

I want to pull the trigger on a cheap small clamp to hunt down electrical earth/ground leakage issues that trip RCD/GFCIs etc.
My other leakage clamp works great but it's a monster to lug around and use when travelling light on small jobs.

I suppose asking if  UT210E does min/max is pushing the expectations for such a low price? 

and hey, it's a Uni-T, so I gotta ask if it's a goodie, or borderline sledge worthy   

 

[Circlotron]

I did some earth leakage tests with mine. Seemed stable enough to see what was going on. I made a short extension cord with the earth wire long enough to pass through the clamp centre 10 times for X10 sensitivity.

[Electro Detective]

I did some earth leakage tests with mine. Seemed stable enough to see what was going on. I made a short extension cord with the earth wire long enough to pass through the clamp centre 10 times for X10 sensitivity.

yeah, I got that in my bag of tricks too 

My other clamp leaker reads any AC waveform straight up from 0.300 ma to 30 amps rock solid

But I'd be cool with anything small that does 5 ma to 100 ma AC,  without digit walkabout...

[IanB]

Hey guys, in case it hasn't been covered, does this clamp (not modded) give true RMS readings in the AC milliamp range,
or only applicable to the volts input?

How well does it work from 0 to 100 ma AC? solid readings or 'all over the shop' ? 

I want to pull the trigger on a cheap small clamp to hunt down electrical earth/ground leakage issues that trip RCD/GFCIs etc.
My other leakage clamp works great but it's a monster to lug around and use when travelling light on small jobs.

I suppose asking if  UT210E does min/max is pushing the expectations for such a low price? 

and hey, it's a Uni-T, so I gotta ask if it's a goodie, or borderline sledge worthy   

yeah, I got that in my bag of tricks too 

My other clamp leaker reads any AC waveform straight up from 0.300 ma to 30 amps rock solid

But I'd be cool with anything small that does 5 ma to 100 ma AC,  without digit walkabout...

I just tested mine. It gave stable readings down to 1 mA with stable loads (transformers), with just a +/- 1 digit flicker on the last digit as with any meter. When using a x10 probe it was able to detect the < 0.1 mA standby current of my iPhone charger.

However, with SMPS like Apple chargers under load the display does jump around, but I am sure this is because the charger itself is far from having a constant current draw.

The display shows "TRMS AC A" when measuring, so one could take that at face value and say yes, it is measuring true RMS mA.

[flywheelz]

Anyone willing to test two new eeprom mods?  It gives two new functions in 2A mode.  Its reported on the Russian site that these functions still have the full count even after zeroing out (i.e. doesn't go back to 2000).  The LCD does not show a "." in the read out.

Update:  Tested the DCA 0000 function in 2A and it truly works even after zeroing out. 

Code: [Select]

       old      new
 A7: 00 1C - DCA 0000 in 2A mode / SELECT slot 3
 B7: 00 1D - ACA 0000 in 2A mode / SELECT slot 4

Hi , I finally picked a 210E , having read this thread a while back and thanks to FlyWheelz's pic of the Hookup and his .ino file , I now have a Modded 210E . 

However I noticed the post above has different hex codes for A7 and B7 than the .ino so I am wonder if the INO was ever updated so it's correct or I need to make these changes too ? though looking at the INO or the post on page 8 these addresses seem to be for the ALARMS , not for adding modes to 2A mode ? 

Earlier in the thread on Page 4 I also notice some of Macboys' changes are different than Flywheelz too...or was that just personal preference?

Did I perhaps miss something on the thread ? or was there a finalized list of recommended Changes perhaps?

Thanks for any help....

KB

The post above one you quoted, the one with .ino, is more recent.  I made the 2A dotless modes be in SELECT slot 1 and 2 and the original modes shifted to slot 3 and 4.  The other differences could be with alarms snd timeouts, these are personal preferences.

[Kbird]

Anyone willing to test two new eeprom mods?  It gives two new functions in 2A mode.  Its reported on the Russian site that these functions still have the full count even after zeroing out (i.e. doesn't go back to 2000).  The LCD does not show a "." in the read out.

Update:  Tested the DCA 0000 function in 2A and it truly works even after zeroing out. 

Code: [Select]

       old      new
 A7: 00 1C - DCA 0000 in 2A mode / SELECT slot 3
 B7: 00 1D - ACA 0000 in 2A mode / SELECT slot 4

Hi , I finally picked a 210E , having read this thread a while back and thanks to FlyWheelz's pic of the Hookup and his .ino file , I now have a Modded 210E . 

However I noticed the post above has different hex codes for A7 and B7 than the .ino so I am wonder if the INO was ever updated so it's correct or I need to make these changes too ? though looking at the INO or the post on page 8 these addresses seem to be for the ALARMS , not for adding modes to 2A mode ? 

Earlier in the thread on Page 4 I also notice some of Macboys' changes are different than Flywheelz too...or was that just personal preference?

Did I perhaps miss something on the thread ? or was there a finalized list of recommended Changes perhaps?

Thanks for any help....

KB

The post above one you quoted, the one with .ino, is more recent.  I made the 2A dotless modes be in SELECT slot 1 and 2 and the original modes shifted to slot 3 and 4.  The other differences could be with alarms snd timeouts, these are personal preferences.

Thanks Flywheelz , I was hoping you'd see my Post and could clarify things, as there is alot of info on this thread , but it sounds as though I am good to go , so thanks ofr your posting.....

Did you ever try using Pin 8 for WP like Kerry Wong did in his sketch ? it worked fine when I modded my Uni-T 139C,
after my initial wiring error admittedly as I had WP to GND at 1st and was getting the beeping.

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/uni-t-ut139c-lcd-biasing-(schematics-avail)/msg1165035/#msg1165035

[flywheelz]

Did you ever try using Pin 8 for WP like Kerry Wong did in his sketch ? it worked fine when I modded my Uni-T 139C,
after my initial wiring error admittedly as I had WP to GND at 1st and was getting the beeping.

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/uni-t-ut139c-lcd-biasing-(schematics-avail)/msg1165035/#msg1165035

Yes, I tried Pin 8 to ground but that alone was not enough for my UT210E to be able to Write eeprom (maybe read too, can't remember  ).  After few rewirings, I realized the MCU was waking up and screwing things up, so grounding its reset pin 55 did the trick    On 139C there is a nice Reset pad.

[Kbird]

Did you ever try using Pin 8 for WP like Kerry Wong did in his sketch ? it worked fine when I modded my Uni-T 139C,
after my initial wiring error admittedly as I had WP to GND at 1st and was getting the beeping.

https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/uni-t-ut139c-lcd-biasing-(schematics-avail)/msg1165035/#msg1165035

Yes, I tried Pin 8 to ground but that alone was not enough for my UT210E to be able to Write eeprom (maybe read too, can't remember  ).  After few rewirings, I realized the MCU was waking up and screwing things up, so grounding its reset pin 55 did the trick    On 139C there is a nice Reset pad.

Thanks again.  I was not aware of the reset pad on the 139C , not sure I have seen that info anywhere else actually, good to know , though I did not mod it as heavily as the 210E, I  just did the backlight time out and brightness(voltage) bump and the auto time out function on it.

KB.

[Chalcogenide]

I just wanted to share the rechargeable battery mod that I did on my UT-210E, but that can also potentially be adapted to pretty much any 2xAAA based multimeter or even other things. It's pretty much reversible and no real modification has to be done to the meter. The downside is that the only way to charge the battery is to remove it from the meter itself, but the upside is that no metal part is exposed and thus potentially causing safety issues when measuring "high" voltages.
Sorry for posting it so late after my first mention of it, but I pretty much forgot about it until I decided to charge the meter up.

Please excuse the crustiness of the hack, but since it works perfectly fine I didn't bother to tidy it up.
The required parts are:
- 1x 602040 ( 40mm long, 20mm wide, 6mm thick is the largest that can fit into the compartment) or smaller li-ion battery (mine is 3.7V 450 mAh)
- 1x TP4056 based charging module - only the ones with microUSB plug fit into the battery compartment - but since microUSB is also the most common plug to have lying around, I think it's also the best choice
- 1x low quiescent 3.3V LDO - I used a Torex XC6206P332MR for its low quiescent, low dropout and wide availability for cheap
- 2x decoupling capacitors for the LDO (I think I used 4.7uF 0805 X5R since the XC6206 is designed to be compatible with ceramic caps)
- 2x pin headers
- a square inch or so of protoboard
- 1x 0603 (but 0805 also fit )3.9k or 4.7k resistor to reduce the charging current of the TP4056 module.

Expected cost: less than 5 USD in parts.

How to:
1) replace the resistor connected to pin 2 of the TP4056 module in order to set a 200mA-ish charging current as not to damage the Li-ion battery.
2) solder the LDO circuit - make it such that the output + and - are available on the very edge of the protoboard, so that it's possible to solder two pin headers at a slight outwards angle (see pic). I used the protoboard "upside down" as I used only SMD components - it's very crude, but since we only have a couple of components it's faster than etching a PCB.
3) solder the two circuits together. I placed them such that the USB plug sits at the very edge of the battery, the LDO PCB was cut to size to have the same width, and their inputs are soldered straight to the B+ and B- terminals of the TP4056 module, together with the battery wires. My battery already has a protection PCB in it so no other protection has to be added.
4) Use kapton tape to wrap everything together and prevent shorts.
5) Now you should have two pin headers bent outwards, and the circuit should just barely not fit into the battery ccompartment. Just use pliers and delicately bend the headers to make contact with the meter's battery terminals with a bit of pressure when inserting the battery module into the 2xAAA compartment.
6) The only modification you have to do to the meter itself is just slightly scrape a bit of the plastic of the battery cover in correspondence to the microUSB plug, as it barely prevents the battery cover from fitting correctly. It's a pretty tight fit so once the lid is screwed back on, the battery won't move at all and does not lose connection even if banged around.

[agaelema]

Chalcogenide, this is very interesting. I think I will try to do the same mod.

I won one UT210E and will try every hack/mod. The first will be add the analog output as joeqsmith did. My problem is to find out the SMA conector in my city.

[bitseeker]

That is very slick, Chalcogenide. Thanks for remembering to post the results.