3D Printer yet?

[Inverted18650]

Interesting test on Breakdown Voltages of thin PLA shims. The Video is VERY LONG but the basics of it show single layer 0.2mm (single layer) breakdown about 10kV. Maybe not something to use as a reference for commercial production but good for confidence on your own projects.

Is this you and your channel?

[beanflying]

No last name isn't Wong .

Kerry Wong, deserves way more followers than he has but the style can be a little hard for people to enjoy I guess. Plenty of good content on all sorts of Electronics.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC1TtnT24NS1v12Si2qstYZA

[Inverted18650]

No last name isn't Wong .

Kerry Wong, deserves way more followers than he has but the style can be a little hard for people to enjoy I guess. Plenty of good content on all sorts of Electronics.

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC1TtnT24NS1v12Si2qstYZA

I sub to Wong already, didnt click the link....DUHHHH

[mnementh]

I'm gonna copy this over from the TEA channel since it is relevant... and this thread deserves more activity. 

Currently printing up a couple of these; I acquired a much newer Sony BluRay for the LR, and it's a little bit thicker than my old one. These will go under the back feet of my DTS receiver to match the height so it can sit on top of the BluRay player. Old-school passive-cooled Pioneer from the "transition to DVD" period; too much heat from the top vents to have anything covering them.

I'll show y'all some pics of the finished application in the morning when they're done. 

mnem
 

               


All done. Parts popped off the tile ready to use this morning; zero cleanup required.    It's applications like this where I see FDM 3DP being a real, reasonable change to our everyday lives; simple widgety things where you need something that fits "just right" but would be more hassle than its worth to make by hand.

Literally 10 minutes in Fusion and Cura; 5 minutes prep on the printer (including cleaning and fresh coat of hairspray...  ) and 5-6 hours of the printer working by itself while I do other things. 

mnem
"widget... widget-widget..."

[beanflying]

This thread does need some more love. Content in TEA gets lost all to fast 

I heard this following video was coming up hopefully Stefan (highly recommended channel) will do a followup with some smaller sizes more commonly used in electronics. I use a bunch of them in my designs from M2-M6. From M5 or 6 and up I do a mix of inserts or modeled threads.

My recent double fan mount with M4's inserted works a treat.

https://youtu.be/iR6OBlSzp7I

[NiHaoMike]

One trick for the displacement type self tapping screws is to start tightening it until you feel resistance, then back out and in about 1/4 or a turn or so a few times and it would have heated up by friction to the point it softens the plastic, at which point the screw will go a little further then before. Repeat until the screw is all the way in, then wait for it to cool down. The result is well formed threads for that particular screw.

[mnementh]

I've been doing RC modeling for 4 decades; the Japanese and later Chinese/Tiawanese manufacturers of plastic aircraft, boats and vehicles all have done whole vehicles assembled with machine screws threaded directly into plastic, some as small as m2. Nylon and poly both lend themselves to this kind of assembly, as the self-threading process acts as a locking mechanism, as long as your threaded boss is sufficiently over-deep. ABS is tricky, as it will gall at low temperature, ripping the material off the walls of the hole.

There are tables for the more common nylon, poly and GF nylon that include raw hole size, RPM and feed rates and even ambient temperatures for best "machine screw self-threading" results in these materials. I can't find them right now, but Tamiya and Kyosho both have published this info at one time or another.

@beanflying - Smeesh! I've bolted down 120mm fans with a couple m2 screws because that was all the material I had to work with... m4 is a bit excessive even by my standards, at least when you consider that these fans are most commonly installed into plastic bosses with m2.5 or m3 self-tappers. 

Of course, this project is a great choice for getting practice at installing those brass inserts; they do require different techniques depending on the manufacturer and how they've knurled the outer surface. 

Cheers,

mnem
MAXIM 37: "There is no 'overkill.' There is only 'open fire' and 'I need to reload'."

[beanflying]

Fan holes were 4mm and I had the 4mm hardware on hand already. Weight is a non issue and cost differential $0.50 maybe?

Not shown is the length of silicone model aircraft fuel tube wedged between the two chambers for the single fan test push pull test. I no longer have need of Methanol and stinky planes so a good use for it

[mnementh]

Good thinking! We don't want that fan cavitating. 

I thought about trying to seal to the surface of those fins when I made my suggestion earlier, as the way you have those sinks assembled really does pretty well isolate things; but it seemed just cutting a bit of cardboard to slip in the right slot and done with it was a lot less ass-ache. 

mnem
*toddling off to ded*   

[beanflying]

The following might be of use to those with 300x300x400 CR-10's and their clones. In my case done for keeping the printer clean and also raising the ambient temperature around the prints.

CR-10 Enclosure 1 sheet 1220x2440x18 MDF. Old school 8'x4' size is needed for the plan attached and it could be squeezed on a metric 1200x2400 but it is already squeezy in height and width. The electronics will be mounted outside on the wall and the spool holder will sit inside on the left hand side. Length of the enclosure could be shortened slightly but leaving it long allows plenty of room for the bed heater wiring and the spool at the front.

Rather than have neat dowel or biscuit joints I opted for an easy solution using the accurate 90⁰ cut rear panel and 4 lengths of aluminium angle and screwed together with a bead of glue on the joints. I suspect this is as strong or stronger than dowels.

Front doors are overlapping 5mm acrylic to minimise heat loss and full length piano hinges for the same reason. Plenty of other ways to do it but this allows the printer to easily be installed or removed for any major reason. I haven't decided to fit upper and lower draught door seals yet but there is a phase two planned for maybe additional heating and fume extraction. If anyone wanted to save some money then using some more of the sheet with smaller acrylic windows makes sense. Acrylic cost as much as the sheet of timber in my case.

First two coats of oil based varnish and one more to go should do it. No plans to finish the inside with anything as it isn't needed.

[beanflying]

So it now has doors, draught stoppers and magnetic latches. 3D printed door hardware apart from the Piano hinge. It doesn't really need an upper magnetic latch but I think I will fit one regardless. All parts printed on the Ender Pro in PLA.

Magnets are 20x5x3 and are buried 2.5mm into the base and still plenty of power to hold the doors closed. Had to use salvaged screws as I generally keep only s/steel in stock 

The 'spare block' was actually a drill guide I made from the Fusion 360 sketches. I have been making these for some builds as the measurements are already there and as a one shot don't take long to print and make for a better and easier assembly job.

Time for the electrical fit out on the side and get it back into service. 

[mnementh]

Awww, man... all these renovations are gonna make my rent go through the roof! 

Surprised you didn't print up multiple sets of lift-off or spring-loaded ball snap-in hinges. 3 a side should do, even with flexy-plexi.

mnem
I still wanna move in tho. Is next Tuesday good? 

[beanflying]

I seriously looked at making hinges but decided the piano option gave me sufficient draught stopping I needed as well. Top door gap was set to under 1mm so I haven't worried about a seal along it at this stage.

If my current tenant throws a hissy fit and leaves I will let you know what the rent is 

[mnementh]

 

mnem
*unhinged*

[beanflying]

Random Clippy bit on a set of shack shears on Sunday Night. Original got dropped while open and broke off. 11 minute print drawn in the add breaks while watching a Movie sipping on a Scotch. Not cost effective if you factor time spent but satisfying.

Whoever said Males cant multitask was wrong 

[beanflying]

Random Clippy thing. My desoldering gun has had cable ties on it to hold the Vac line to the power line as all but two of the original clips had broken. Should suit 5.5-6mm Cables or hoses of various sorts for otyher things too.

STL in the Zip and if you need it don't be lazy and learn some CAD Basics and make your own

[mnementh]

I'm going to post this in here for those who don't frequent the TEA; it is 3DP brilliance:

https://youtu.be/xoxhDk-hwuo

Heh. 

mnem
3DP: It's what's for dinner.

[beanflying]

The inclusion of the Fart Bomb took it up another several hundred percent on the bastard scale

Random on my Youtube today was a young kid (Young to me but I am old) who made a small centrifugal separator. Needs a post filter on the outlet  but otherwise it might suit Electronics use under the bench for removing dust bunnies from gear without the need to roll out the Shop Vac. Think I will roll one to fit to my small 3020 Router rebuild/enclosure project.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3574173 Link to the STL's

https://youtu.be/RtGDuiBodaQ

[mnementh]

I know... the fart bomb was sheer genius, plus it actually has strategic as well as personal satisfaction value! 

I'm guessing that the last victim though... Mark totally (and probably unintentionally) nerd-sniped him; instead of throwing it away, I think he took it apart and actually got himself a bit of a prize. 4 phones to eBay, plus some custom parts to tinker with... if he were really ingenious, he could nuke/pave the phones and co-opt the whole damned thing; play the same prank on someone else!


Thanks... now you've got me thinking about ways to mod his design to fit a brushless motor and incorporate the dust box... Like I don't already have enough to think about. 

mnem
You just LIVE to poke dwagons with a stick, donchoo?!?

[beanflying]

And in case anyone wants to build the 3d Printed CNC shown he designed. Also covered in an Indestructable and a bunch of other videos on his channel. https://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-3D-Printed-Dremel-CNC/

Someone should hire this kid before he finishes School.

https://youtu.be/8LewIrPtyYs

[mnementh]

   

I'm back, baybee!


This all started when bitseeker finally decided to adopt my venerable old 454 and give it the attention it deserves but I could no longer provide. Once I had a taker on the old girl, I realized I would need to pack it so it got there in one piece; I literally spent half a day trying to think of a way I could pack it and reasonably expect it to make it all the way there without one or more delicate knobs getting effed up... in the end I realized there was no other way but to print up a front cover for it, as the real thing is pretty much rare as unicorn poop, and priced accordingly.

So I spent another afternoon designing it, and then I had some issues with my printer not liking the Gcode and randomly trying to print the damned thing at like 60% scale one time and then 100% the next... with the same exact file! I resliced it and STILL the same problem... so I powered through and eventually got a good start printing.

After a 40 hour print, it FINALLY printed successfully... and I put it on the floor and STOOD ON IT with all my 300 lbs.    And it HELD.  :   I'm pretty pleased, actually... all the fails manifested right at the beginning, and were relatively easy to resolve before finally setting my Tornado to print for a FULL WORK WEEK straight!

Trial-fitting was less than perfect; it was a "tight press-fit". I had to thump the cover on with the heel of my big ol' Shrek hamhands, but it would at least go on all the way. I found that the radius of the corners was NOT a perfect match to the outer bezel of the 454; this may have been an error on my part measuring the radius, or it may have been due to my having to rescale the entire model to 0.982 because of a measurement error I made when I was starting the project. 

   Once I touched up the inside corners with a heat gun I was able to get a moderate press-fit on the 454's outer bezel, I declared success and took a few victory pics, then it was time to pack up my old beast...    ...and now to the details of the print:

So... what settings?

0.2mm LH, 60/30mm speed, 30% GRID infill with "Connect Infill Lines" enabled at 10% overlap for strength. 1.2mm on all outer surfaces, 200°C printhead temp for PLA+, 75°C bed temp with 12x12 Lowes mirror tile print surface. Brim adhesion enabled, with supports everywhere at default angle.

The supports actually seemed to help; they only generated a few layers around the area between the brim and the front curved surface, but those compound curves turned out much more uniform with zero "straggler" strands of filament in the outer surface. 

And YES, I used hairspray... I was NOT going to give Murphy an excuse to eff things up halfway through such a long print!  And I got a near-mirror surface anyways, so win-win!

I've been having issues with pulling/premature release on the outer edges/corners of large prints correlating with measured uneven heating on the bed with the mirror tiles. I suspected this was due in part to heat loss caused by layers of ceramic-glass bed and glass tile with essentially an insulative layer of plastic (the clone Build-Tak surface) in between. In hopes of maintaining adhesion over such a long, large print... I cranked up the bed heat to 75°C to compensate. It worked here... but as many have warned it would do, the Tevo "Build-Tak" clone print surface has bubbled. I'm going to have to remove it.  But SUCCESS HERE ON THIS PRINT! 

You all have NO IDEA how hard it was for me NOT to plaster the thread with all these pics, as I checked in on the print over a day and a half:

   1) A good start...

   2) Good inner face and walls...

   3) Almost...

   4) Done! Now... to wait an hour for it to cool completely so I don't rip its face off trying to separate it...  EFF THAT!!! Turn the ceiling fan on high and crank the AC down to 67°F!!! 30 minutes of snap, crackle, pop later... it jumped off by itself right into my hot little hands! 

   5) I totally eyeball-measured the location of this slot for the latch-catch... I got it pretty close. But the depth I deliberately got just right so you COULD add spring-steel hooks to snap onto these catches, if you so desire. 

   6) However, I did NOT make allowances for the rubber feet that belong here. That didn't even dawn on me until it was halfway through the print.  I still don't care; I'm dead-chuffed with the results, because:

   7) MONEY SHOT!!! 

mnem
Thanks bean, for giving us a place to natter about our silly little projects!

[beanflying]

Guess the print's application. 5 printed parts on slotted holes on the main saddle and two small heatsinks. The lower flanges are a 4" clearance fit.

1/2 way there only 10 more hours to go barring mishaps 

Hows the Drawing tweakage coming along @mnementh?

[beanflying]

So today I had a Ender Pro Fail issue with a chunk coming out of the Magnetic Surface. It has been coming for a while now and I have had the Glass since before Christmas waiting for the Magnetic Bed to fail.

Several reasons to dump the magnetic one, operating temperature being one, the magnets limit it's use to PLA or careful PETG use. It also struggles at 0.1mm layer heights of which I do a fair bit of as it is soft and gives rather than holds level under the nozzle making it hard to get a good first layer. So Glass it is and I chose to give the Creality Borosilicate one a go eBay auction: #142880909672 Plenty of options to buy but I got mine from their local drop warehouse.

The old magnetic bottom layer peeled much easier than I expected with the adhesive staying bonded to it over the Aluminium. The Glass was still in range of Adjustment without changing the Z limit switch but I did move it up about 2mm to avoid squashing the springs to much.

Would I re buy another Magnetic plate over glass? NO for me but at well into 100-200 prints it isn't a deal breaker at $0.15-30/print and if you kept at 0.2mm layers most likely a lot more.

[aargee]

I think the extra Boro glass is a bit overrated compared to normal glass. I've been using glass mirror tiles in preference to my borosilicate sheet I have (initially because the boro sheet was sharp and not bevelled edges).
Mirror tiles are cheap, I bought 200x200mm as a pack of five, they are sold often for wedding table decorations, they are all primed with hairspray and can be swapped as needed. I've had absolutely no problems with heat or cracking up to 60C bed temps.
May be a little small for Enders but work fine on my Cocoon/Wanhao i3s.

[beanflying]

The Edges on the Creality/Ender Borosilicate are in line with the edges on my CR-10 so no issues on that front. Touch wood I am still on the first Glass on my CR-10 but mirror tiles seem like the cheap and good way to go.

Generally I use 55C on uber clean Glass for PLA without adhesive which seems to work for me but 70C for PETG. Now I have my printers in enclosures I want to have a bash with ABS and some of the other odd ones.