3D Printer yet?

[Brumby]

That seems like a reasonable observation.  The ID of my original nozzles is about 2.0mm and the new acquisitions are about 4.0mm.

Just checked the listing - and there is no mention of filament size at all.


Will message the Seller.

[Brumby]

.... I wonder if this statement in the listing covers my issue:

"The measurement allowed error is +/- 1-3cm."   

[xrunner]

.... I wonder if this statement in the listing covers my issue:

"The measurement allowed error is +/- 1-3cm."   

Good thing it wasn't +/- 1-3 m or you wouldn't have a claim LOL.

[Brumby]

Makes you wonder what you might get with a "nominal" 0.4mm orifice.

[janoc]

That seems like a reasonable observation.  The ID of my original nozzles is about 2.0mm and the new acquisitions are about 4.0mm.

Just checked the listing - and there is no mention of filament size at all.


Will message the Seller.

Which is totally normal (assuming you meant 0.2mm and 0.4mm - 4mm nozzle would be insane). Filament diameter has nothing to do with nozzle diameter. You can use 1.75mm filament with 0.4mm nozzle the same as you can use 3mm filament. The same with 0.2mm or any other nozzle. Most printers actually come with 0.4mm nozzles, regardless of filament they use. It is a good all around size for most prints. Even 0.4mm nozzle can print 0.1mm layers, you don't need smaller nozzle for that.

Nozzle diameter affects the layer thickness you can achieve and how fast (or slow) you can print (bigger nozzle = can do faster print with thicker layers but worse details). It is up to the extruder and hotend to supply the nozzle with sufficient amount of molten plastic to keep it going. Whether that plastic was originally a 1.75mm or 3mm diameter string is totally irrelevant as long as your extruder is designed for it and your machine settings are correct (the machine has to extrude more of a 1.75mm filament than 3mm one for the same amount of plastic).

In fact, using too small nozzles (like 0.1-0.2mm) is counterproductive because you can't print thicker layers or print fast when needed (the extruder is unable to push enough plastic through the small hole in time). Not everything needs to be printed in 0.1mm layer height (and take ages). 0.2-0.3mm layers, using 0.4mm nozzle are totally common.

[janoc]

You appear to have picked up nozzles for 3mm filament.

Nope, see above. There are no "3mm filament nozzles". Filament diameter has nothing to do with nozzle size.

[xrunner]

You appear to have picked up nozzles for 3mm filament.

Nope, see above. There are no "3mm filament nozzles". Filament diameter has nothing to do with nozzle size.

He's talking about the I.D. of the nozzle where the unmelted filament is feeding into - it's too big. Look at the diagram if you don't understand -

[Monkeh]

You appear to have picked up nozzles for 3mm filament.

Nope, see above. There are no "3mm filament nozzles". Filament diameter has nothing to do with nozzle size.

https://e3d-online.com/brass-nozzles-v6
https://store.micro-swiss.com/products/reprap-m6-thread-e3d-olsson-block-j-head
https://store.micro-swiss.com/products/reprap-m6-thread-e3d-olsson-block-j-head-3mm-filament
https://e3d-online.dozuki.com/Document/SMgf2USbusbvTpKT/V6-NOZZLE-ALL-%28Edition-8.1%29.pdf

Thank you, please come again.

[Brumby]

It took a couple of rounds of communication, but they finally understood.  I think this diagram helped:



I've been offered a partial refund, which is reasonably commensurate with the fact that there were some cleaning tools included - which are usable.



So, I've increased my knowledge of 3D printing just that little bit more.

[beanflying]

Oops Converted some calculations and hand drawn sketches I did a while back into Fusion 360 today. It based on a Bill Pentz style Cyclone for my CNC router mainly but also general use.

Split as shown the top section is well over 1 roll of Filament and 3+Days to print and maxxed out fairly much on the CR-10S  Back to the drawing board for a manufacturing method. Laser cut bits with some pipe sections and 'some 3D printing maybe.  Sleeping on it

[beanflying]

Some time later and after taking an electronic hacksaw to the model. The top section is back to just on two days to print and under a roll of filament. All the bits will also now fit on the bed of an Ender 3 (or Prusa without checking dimensions) so I can use a couple of my printers to make it.

A commercial option for a Cyclone of this size in Oz starts out at about $400 AUpesos (about $270USD) so plenty of $ for filament and some power.

[Nominal Animal]

I'm pretty sure you are well aware of these, but in case someone finds it interesting, a lot of woodworkers have built various size cyclone-type separators (often with post-filtering), as table saws and sanders generate a lot of dust.

The one I found most interesting was a Thien baffle style with a good post-filter, out of a couple of buckets, and such stuff; plus a custom impeller, by Matthias Wandel,


You might wish to watch a video where he explains the reasons behind that design, based on experience with his previous dust collector:


The build video of the two-bucket cyclone is here:

[beanflying]

For a shop vac mod the baffle is a good thing I am thinking of doing a mobile cart for my vac with something like it or a baby evilbay cyclone.

I really need something a bit more serious given the layout and size of the CNC. Ducting will be 100 or 125mm and 500+CFM of fan.

[Nominal Animal]

Bigger?







with a description on how he did the cyclone itself (from 0.6mm Alu sheet) here.

That said, I'd prefer to use ABS or nylon for the impeller blades, maybe buy a dozen of suitable plastic cutting boards, then reform them on wooden forms with a heatgun.

[beanflying]

Way to much time on their hands  In oz the 'smaller' commercial fans are not to expensive so buying one works out a lot better than getting a motor and adding the bits on the front.

At least as far as I have found there is no cheaper larger cyclones out of China and the pricing of the western commercial offerings gives some room for DIY. Plenty of builds on youtube to pick from including all sorts of materials. The idea of kicking the 3D printer in the bum while I sleep eat and drink beer to get a result needing minimal extra work appeals 

I got a deal on one of the baby ones today eBay auction: #223460931127 $29 AUD ($20 USD) for the shop vac. For this sort of money there is little to no point to DIY IMO.

[beanflying]

Just a warning if anyone is looking at the Tronxy D01 in particular. The then tried to have the video taken down for someone having a near miss while reviewing it Check your printers regardless of brand.

Angus politely said F Off  https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCxQbYGpbdrh-b2ND-AfIybg/community?lb=UgyN7CwpC4sEj_i6wzp4AaABCQ



And after being hauled over the coals in public.

Maker's Muse
28 minutes ago
Hey all, I have some GOOD news regarding my recent video on the Tronxy D01.

After hammering home just how serious the issue was, they have been very quick to roll out new firmware for the D01 and I am told other machines as well. They also informed me that machines still in the factory will be updated, I hope this is indeed the case.

While this does not excuse the shipping of machines without Thermal Runaway Protection to users, I am happy that they are now taking this seriously. The machine updates via micro SD and the whole process is completed without user intervention in under a minute. I will be putting a video together to discuss this further, show you how to update your machines and invite all owners of Tronxy 3D Printers to seek out updated firmware as I don't believe TRP was ever implemented.

It was a stressful process and I wish a video like that wasn't the only way to make this actually happen, but overall I'd call that a win.

Happy printing!

Angus

[Brumby]

It seems to me Tronxy have but one course of action to take - own up to the problem and deal with it.  Then they could approach Angus who I am sure would add a postscript.

Trying to hide an issue in this day and age, is just silly.

[beanflying]

Early version but interesting to see a lowish cost multi CNC toy. Worth seeing how it iterates and fix the flex in the CNC Router shaft

[CatalinaWOW]

Just adding this here as well as it getting lost in the TEA thread.

Lisence Agreement - Use it hack it is all good but sell it for $ and I will hunt you down and do nasty things to you with a bit of filament 

STL is in the zip file.

Slots are 7mm wide so it should take most cables. 203mm wide so it will fit on the smaller beds and more screw holes than needed.

Thanks again for this.  Had some bed adhesion problems on first attempt with PETG and then various family matters got in the way but now have it resolved and printed and it looks and works wonderfully.  Had to place diagonal on bed of Ender3 to print comfortably, but other than that no issues.  Good design.

[beanflying]

No worries 

PETG can be a bit special for the first few goes. Initially I had to do some playing with adhesives for the glass bed on my CR-10S. The Uhu Glue stick I had been using simply didn't work with PETG, several experiments later (including thinned PVA and hairspray) Bostik glue stick is about the pick of them.

[CatalinaWOW]

In the end I got good results with glass bed, no adhesive 80 deg bed temp.

[MyHeadHz]

I added a fan on mine a while back.  My only good fan is DC, but the printer only has a PWM output.  It works fine at 255 (max) all the time, but it is a bit too strong.  Would using a linear voltage regulator and a pot be ok, or would it be much better to get a 555 timer (and learn how to use it)?

Also, I can't seem to find the acceleration/jerk settings.  Are they not available in Linux (appimage)?  All the references show screens that I can't find.

[beanflying]

Which fan? Which Printer and which control board?

The 0-255 is PWM to two wire fans on all of mine unlike the PC version if that is what you are trying to compare it to?

Depending of which slicer you are using maybe try and see if there is an Advanced TAB or way to select Advanced mode?

Screen shot of the current version of Prusa Slicer below for reference.

[xrunner]

Got one of these coming for my Ender 3. Y-Axis linear rail made by 3D Fused replaces the original and does away with the plastic wheels. Will post more pics after installed.

https://3dfused.com/product/ender-3-ender-3-pro-y-axis-linear-rail-kit/

[xrunner]

After some holiday shipping fiascos (I'll spare you at this time ...  ) I finally got the 3D Fused linear Y axis. The installation went OK. There were some issues with the spacing of the stepper pulley as it was on the original Ender Y axis, but solved it by tapping the pulley down about 50 mm. Also had to re-adjust the length of the belt as it came from the factory by removing the part they designed that holds the belt under the bed mounting plate, and pulling some length back so the belt would tighten enough. I added washers in some places because I thought they were needed due to the fitment of the screws to the hole diameter. I also chose to re-print some of their parts in red, just for looks (which I did before I tore down my printer).

It does look like it improves the general finish of the printed parts a bit, but it's hard to take a good picture of the effect. I don't think the original Ender Y axis is bad at all, but if you want to add that little bit of extra precision it does work - not an order of magnitude better but a bit. I think after the holiday shipping craziness dies off I'll go ahead and get the 3D Fused X & Z axis retrofit.

Here's the company website -

https://3dfused.com/