3D Printer yet?

[mnementh]

That said... there IS a qualitative difference; the piercing tone of the OEM 3010 fan on the hotend makes it much more annoying than any of the combinations with the PetsFang and 50mm centrifugal blowers.

The REAL PITA here is the firmware tho... unlike any other 3DP I've owned, THIS unit keep the hotend fan on ALL THE FUCKING TIME. Any time it's powered up that hotend fan is running, no matter what you're doing. I totally need to see where in the config files I have to go look to make that only run when the hotend is active.

mnem

OH. FUCK. ME. This damned controller isn't a faithful MKS Gen L/RAMPS 1.4 clone; the #2 & #3 fan sockets are fucking hotwired to main power. Jeebus; what idiocy. Forget everything nice I said about this controller's touch-screen UI; the designers are fucking morons.

mnem
 

[Monkeh]

That said... there IS a qualitative difference; the piercing tone of the OEM 3010 fan on the hotend makes it much more annoying than any of the combinations with the PetsFang and 50mm centrifugal blowers.

The REAL PITA here is the firmware tho... unlike any other 3DP I've owned, THIS unit keep the hotend fan on ALL THE FUCKING TIME. Any time it's powered up that hotend fan is running, no matter what you're doing. I totally need to see where in the config files I have to go look to make that only run when the hotend is active.

mnem

OH. FUCK. ME. This damned controller isn't a faithful MKS Gen L/RAMPS 1.4 clone; the #2 & #3 fan sockets are fucking hotwired to main power. Jeebus; what idiocy. Forget everything nice I said about this controller's touch-screen UI; the designers are fucking morons.

mnem
 

Well.. the MKS Gen L and the RAMPS are thoroughly different boards, and this board is very visibly different to both. Neither of them have 3 controlled fans anyway.. Doesn't look like the claimed 32-bit board, either..

Can't said I'd pattern anything off either of them, either.

[mnementh]

I believe MKS Gen L is supposed to be the same circuitry and pin designations as the RAMPS 1.4; just different physical layout. Both support transistor-switched outputs with PWM for at least two, if not 3 fans. I need to dig into the schematics, but I vaguely remember D7, 9 & 12 as fans, with D8 & D10 being hotbed & hotend...?

Anyways... the difference between the two is entirely layout. I knew at first glance they'd omitted stepper socket 5... guess I expected other cut corners as well. Just not ones THIS stupid. 

mnem
Everybody needs something to believe in. I believe I'm gonna eat a chicken pot pie.

[Monkeh]

I believe MKS Gen L is supposed to be the same circuitry and pin designations as the RAMPS 1.4; just different physical layout. Both support transistor-switched outputs with PWM for at least two, if not 3 fans. I need to dig into the schematics, but I vaguely remember D7, 9 & 12 as fans, with D8 & D10 being hotbed & hotend...?

Anyways... the difference between the two is entirely layout. I knew at first glance they'd omitted stepper sockets 5 & 6... guess I expected other cut corners as well. Just not ones THIS stupid. 

They copied some of the pin assignments out of sheer laziness, but otherwise they're pretty different.. RAMPS has three generic outputs, the MKS is organised as one fan and two hotend heaters, a bed heater, and an always-on fan port.

In either case, beyond sharing the Atmega (the 32-bit is a lie, no cake), there's no reason to assume the boards are equivalent.. Probably equivalently bad, though.

[mnementh]

I believe MKS Gen L is supposed to be the same circuitry and pin designations as the RAMPS 1.4; just different physical layout. Both support transistor-switched outputs with PWM for at least two, if not 3 fans. I need to dig into the schematics, but I vaguely remember D7, 9 & 12 as fans, with D8 & D10 being hotbed & hotend...?

Anyways... the difference between the two is entirely layout. I knew at first glance they'd omitted stepper sockets 5 & 6... guess I expected other cut corners as well. Just not ones THIS stupid. 

They copied some of the pin assignments out of sheer laziness, but otherwise they're pretty different.. RAMPS has three generic outputs, the MKS is organised as one fan and two hotend heaters, a bed heater, and an always-on fan port.

In either case, beyond sharing the Atmega (the 32-bit is a lie, no cake), there's no reason to assume the boards are equivalent.. Probably equivalently bad, though.

The "32-bit" part is lifted from the RAMPS Wiki, I'm sure. RAMPS (for those playing along at home) are all designed as a SHIELD; it's in the name.  RAMPS 1.2 & up, IIRC, are supposed to be compatible with both 8 & 32-bit processor host boards of the related Atmega families.

Funny thing; this 3DP has a *NIX compatible 64-bit DWIN T5 processor running the touch screen; same touchscreen board as Wanhao uses on the D9 Duplicator.

You're right on the output assignments; it was RAMPS 1.4.4 I was thinking of. Fuck a duck. Guess I'm going to either have to spend some real money on a more modern controller or get my hands dirty in the FW reassigning an aux pin for the hotend fan. Suppose while I'm in there I should knock together a STBY/SHUTDN circuit (MKS PWC) as well so it doesn't stay running all night...

It NEVER ends. 

mnem
 

[Zucca]

Dragon soon I will fire up my (used) new Ender 5 and I will join you.

(music) and you'll never walk alooooone (music)

[mnementh]

I look forward to seeing more fellow addicts in here. Ever since the med incident, I've been burying myself in the softwares on my printer. First poking around from the console in PrintRun, trying to see what I can learn about its current config (blessed little; not much enabled  ) and now I've D/Led the config files & FW for the printer and touchscreen from the Longer3D website.

Printer is a Longer LK4 Pro, which they relabeled and sell under the Diggro name, even though their company info is all over the nameplate; no idea why. They do have everything available to D/L, but zero documentation other than a very basic UM. I guess I should be happy they bothered to do that...

mnem
"FORE!!!"

[exe]

Hello, is this a 3d printer Anonymous? I have prusa i3 mk3 upgraded to mk3s. This is my second printer, and I don't have much trouble with it, or need to upgrade. It boringly works .

Before that I had cr-10, it was moderately modded (replaced hotend, fans, glass surface, stepper motor dumpers, and small tweaks here and there). I was never able to get any good print from it, but learned a lot. Two problems were the most common: adhesion (surface was very uneven, even after replacing the mirror), and random extrusion problem after a few hours of printing. It was beyond my skills to make it working, that's why I have prusa.

[mnementh]

Welcome to the nuthouse!

No idea why you couldn’t get decent prints from the CR10; that was the printer that got me back into 3DP after surviving a horror show with 2 Tevo Tarantulas. Perversely, I bought another Tevo after that; but only because everybody I asked told me it was a damned good clone of the CR10, and I had enough points on Bang’emgood to get it for $260. I was very pleasantly surprised; it was amazing out of the box and printing awesomely in less than a hour.

Cheers,

mnem
*currently trying to unscew the inscrutable conifig files of my Alpha-3*

[Monkeh]

*currently trying to unscew the inscrutable conifig files of my Alpha-3*

Marlin's bad enough before random people start messing with it, my sympathies.

My (for now) CR-10 is waiting on motivation to finish reassembling bits and trying to spew some goo. Really just needs a fan duct and some wiring cleaning..

[mnementh]

*currently trying to unscew the inscrutable conifig files of my Alpha-3*

Marlin's bad enough before random people start messing with it, my sympathies.

My (for now) CR-10 is waiting on motivation to finish reassembling bits and trying to spew some goo. Really just needs a fan duct and some wiring cleaning..

Yeah, and you don't hardly get any more random than me. 

I've been trying to wrap my head around just how the touchscreen works... nearest I can tell, it's really just a little tablet PC configured in "kiosk" mode with some scripting, which communicates with the mainboard via serial. The thing I don't get is why the mainboard isn't just spitting out rivers of data constantly whenever I console in while it's printing; it should be configured with debugging enabled to talk to the touchscreen.

mnem
 

[mnementh]

Currently arguing with myself over whether to go through the hassle of removing the whole board just to solder a jumper to bring PK7/A15 out to this unused socket so I can enable T2. The worse part is... the side that's winning is telling me to ALSO mod a SMD FET on one of the PWM pins for the Hotend fan. you know; to make it worth my time...

mnem

[mnementh]

Currently doing bizzackly that... only using a PN2222A added to some empty space on my existing 12V Regulator board, as that's what I have lying around.

mnem
pray for me...

[mnementh]

Hardware modding done. Trace to unused Y-Min port severed and connected to unpopulated pin PK7/A15; these ports all have the same capacitor/resistor circuit as on the existing Thermistor ports, so easiest way to get a working analog input. D7 brought up to 12V regulator board with PN2222A; at hfe250, should be able to drive .6-8A in theory. Max expected is 0.35A if I ever go back to 12V fan; right now expected is 0.15A with current 24V fan.

now all I have to do is program the fucking thing...

mnem
 

[Brumby]

I'll have a bucket ready for when your head explodes.

[beanflying]

I have been a bad Printer owner it has been over a week since I used any of them  This is a redrawn print from another prior job.

While this isn't an Electronics project the knobs can be used or tweaked to suit other projects. Due to the size of the Fusion CAD and STL files the Zip is on my Google Drive here https://drive.google.com/open?id=1pfMaFg_Mu7rPhNbDOKgeI_0YlHUuP1pk  ** The knurl nut is not shown in the design due to laziness 

It suits any length M6 Bolt as is with this or a similar dimension knurl nut (6x8 x 8.3 OD) as is or tweak the Fusion drawing to whatever you like. eBay auction: #153787133578 Make sure you have the brass nut nice and hot (200C+) before trying to insert it and the bolt as reheating will cause meltage of the knob. You can also skip adding the Bolt then you can use them on a stud or internal bolt as a hand nut.

A bit random but the Steel Weld Nuts shown work great inside the Aluminium Track available on evilbay or Ali Express https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000228085904.html?spm=a2g0s.12269583.0.0.2b8d7463CSXTab if you need to make a jig or fixture.

Gratuitous use of Laser cut Acrylic on this Router Template for the corners. 

Only 20 to go .....

[mnementh]

CREALITY HEADS-UP:

You might want to get in on the CR6-SE; the KickStarter is up and has already secured $550,000 of their $100,000 goal in like 6 hours. There are still approx 150 slots left for the $319 buy-in... there were 220 slots when I logged in for mine. 

https://creality.com/cr-6-se-3d-printer-crowdfunding-on-6th-may-p00296p1.html

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1001939425/creality-cr-6-se-leveling-free-diy-3d-printer-kit

If they deliver half of what is promised, it's going to revolutionize "hobbyist-grade" 3DP.

Cheers,

mnem
*3DP-ily*

[mnementh]

If you're serious, do NOT wait. I missed the $265 bracket by like 10 minutes; by the time I got all my shit updated so I could check out, the $299 bracket was gone and only 200 slots left in the $319 bracket.

Right now 70 slots left at $319; next single-unit bracket will be $339, and folks are already buying into that. Why?  Damifino.

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1001939425/creality-cr-6-se-leveling-free-diy-3d-printer-kit

mnem
Crack... getcher 3DP crack right heeah... only US$319...

[mnementh]

Oh, those hosers... they just added another 1000 1500 slots at the USD$319 bracket. Now approx 480 of 1500 2000 slots left in the bracket. They're now at $620,727 $796,255 pledged of $100,026 goal.

Still... glad I got in when I did.  

mnem

[mnementh]

Watching the video... noticed how she edited out the part where she almost ripped the wires out of the hotend connector. One frame she had the wires routed over the top extrusion (approx 6:10) and was about to start the Auto-Level process (which would bring the hotend down to the bed); next frame they were routed correctly UNDER the top extrusion. D'OH!!!

mnem
 

[beanflying]

Of course you were watching the 'wires' and your extrusion Naomi is a good chick but in this case I will be waiting until version II as Creality does have a little form for releasing Beta models 

[mnementh]

Naaahhh.... mine are almost as big as hers. And perkier than my wife's; she told me so.

In all honesty; I really don't mind being a beta tester on this one. This ticks a bunch of boxes for me, and the build (unlike the Diggro) appears to be exactly as easy as the Tevo Tornado was. It looks like they've gone up to a 40mm (maybe even 50mm) heat-break fan, so should be much quieter. The only thing I'm really concerned about is their "leveling-free" bed mechanism; but looking at it, pretty obvious it will not be a huge assache to mod with springs & thumbwheels to manually level the bed.

mnem
 

[mnementh]

   now all I have to do is program the fucking thing...

mnem
 

I'll have a bucket ready for when your head explodes.

As always, the Devil is in the details; The part I thought was going to be a tedious nightmare of testing & troubleshooting (the PN2222A AutoFan mod) worked perfectly right off the bat, and the part that I first thought would be easy (adding a 3rd thermistor on a board based on the MKS Gen L, which comes with 3 thermistor pins) has turned out to be the assache.

Most of it really wasn't that painful; I copied backups of the OE firmware & flash ROM using AVRDUde, then downloaded the FW as a packet of Arduino files from the Longer3D website. An afternoon watching snippets of vids and going back & forth on the Marlin website as I read and familiarized myself with the config.h & Config_adv.h files, and the PN2222A AutoFan mod worked perfectly first upload!

The real headache came with the 2nd temp sensor (on the transition region of the heat break); they built in too much safety and I couldn't enable it as an unused hotend thermistor like I planned.  Eventually I figured out how to enable and configure the A15 pin as a "Chamber Temp" pin and got it working, the temps all even show up automagically in the PrintRun dashboard!

But, I misinterpreted how the existing resistor circuit on port I "repurposed" on the MB works, so the values on the new thermistor are all out to lunch. Tomorrow I'll have to recreate a third iteration of the resistor divider from the RAMPS 1.4/MKS Gen L schematic, and then the values should be correct.

mnem
*toddling off to ded*

[tautech]

Naaahhh.... mine are almost as big as hers. And perkier than my wife's; she told me so.

In all honesty; I really don't mind being a beta tester on this one. This ticks a bunch of boxes for me, and the build (unlike the Diggro) appears to be exactly as easy as the Tevo Tornado was. It looks like they've gone up to a 40mm (maybe even 50mm) heat-break fan, so should be much quieter. The only thing I'm really concerned about is their "leveling-free" bed mechanism; but looking at it, pretty obvious it will not be a huge assache to mod with springs & thumbwheels to manually level the bed.

mnem
 

And what if the bed is no longer flat and true ?
Defpom added a leveller to his Ender 3 and it apparently fixed issues he was having.
https://youtu.be/l0kCD02BzzY

[mnementh]

It is NOT exactly "leveling-free", except that the user should never have to touch a leveling knob again. It is "Auto-Leveling" with a 16-point matrix built-in. That's more than enough to compensate for even the cheap-ass plastic-coated print surfaces the E3 base model comes with... but this one doesn't have THAT either; it comes with a quick-change clone UltraBase carborundum glass build plate too. And 235 x 235 x 250 build volume vs the usual 220 x 220 x 250. And 32-bit mainboard... and Trinamic drivers... and the list goes on...

If the printbed is wavy like scram gravy, the simple solution will be to just buy a better plate off Ultrabase.

mnem
THIS is what I was waiting for.