3D Printer yet?

[tautech]

Real nice 3DP multipurpose breakout enclosure for a PSU and the 16ch scanner card in a SDM3065X.



Further info and pics here:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/siglent-new-bench-dmm-sdm3055/msg3070270/#msg3070270

[mnementh]

That is actually a little bit frightening. 



[RANDOM MODE]



[/RANDOM MODE]

mnem
Can you say BOOM! boys and girls...?

[Mr. Scram]

Real nice 3DP multipurpose breakout enclosure for a PSU and the 16ch scanner card in a SDM3065X.



Further info and pics here:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/siglent-new-bench-dmm-sdm3055/msg3070270/#msg3070270

I'm not sure I'd use printing for that but a scan card breakout is a good idea.

[Nuno_pt]

Real nice 3DP multipurpose breakout enclosure for a PSU and the 16ch scanner card in a SDM3065X.



Further info and pics here:
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/siglent-new-bench-dmm-sdm3055/msg3070270/#msg3070270

  good job, very nice

[HobGoblyn]

Will order the following  in about 3 hours unless someone tells me I shouldn't

£14 Vibration Damper 

£40  SKR Mini E3

Cheapest Pro I've found on Amazon is £270 Here

Total cost £324.  Plus the cost of a fan which I will get once it's arrived and I've looked into it more.

Advice on good filament so I can order some at the same time much appreciated.

Thanks  (will also look at other UK stockists to see if they have printer cheaper)

      These "vibration dampers" are NOT intended for that purpose; they are CNC manufacturing hardware that the 3DP community has completely misunderstood the purpose of. It was invented to provide self-alignment functionality on stepper motors with 1-piece integral leadscrew. If used with a flex coupler, it allows the entire assembly to deflect under load, causing lost precision & repeatability and the ringing Jeroen3 referred to. Plus, they really make very little difference in noise factor on a properly set up linear actuator.

There's a reason CReality uses a solid coupler with just a slot to allow a few microns of flex; that is all that is needed, and it keeps the layer accuracy/repeatability very high. Adding those rubber mounts will only serve to defeat that design, while also adding offset that you'll have to adjust for.

The Trinamic drivers (and correctly setting the drive current) are really all that is needed to quiet the steppers to a very family-friendly level; where you're going to have noise issues is with the fans. They are NOT family-friendly, especially the 30mm hotend fan.

If you're going to spend the money on a new controller, get the touchscreen too; it'll never be cheaper than in the bundle. For everyday use, it is just SO much more civilized.

That one should have a 64x128 emulation mode, so you CAN still have the old familiar UI if you need to add display items in the firmware.

Cheers,

mnem
 

It was youtube vid that originally made me think the dampers were a good idea

[mnementh]

"Lipstick on a pig", IMHO.  Trinamic drivers adjusted to correct current FTW. 

mnem
 

[beanflying]

Hey @mnementh you want a sleeving project  @Brumby could box it up and send it to you for a few sheckles  eBay auction: #323516128642 I reckon offers of over $1 should be considered generous.....

[Brumby]

"Everything is assembled. Assembling is the most difficult part. It cost me more than 20 hours due to insufficient instructions on the manual. You won't able to built it without watching YouTube. The most tricky part is the base wobbling and incorrectly install power cable. I have done these for you."

Somehow I'm not getting a good vibe here ... especially when there is no indication it has ever printed anything.  I would not expect any sane person would even try printing with it in such a state.

The good part is that it's right in Dave's local neighbourhood.  That also means it's not all that far from me geographically, but not financially.  The asking price is somewhat hopeful.

[Brumby]

Hey @mnementh you want a sleeving project  @Brumby could box it up and send it to you for a few sheckles  eBay auction: #323516128642

Yep.  Happy to oblige.   

[mnementh]

No.... seriously; I'd give $20 (Canadian ) for the dual-Z parts. The rest... scrap. Knockoff Titan (Okay, maybe $10 there ), OEM controller, still acrylic everything... and 1st gen Tarantula, so still just regular 8040 extrusion, not proper OpenBuilds-type V-slot. 

I mean, you could use the extrusion to start building something with linear slides... but you'd need 2 kits worth of extrusion AND the drilling jigs/taps for 90° end-joints. A LOT easier to start with something that has proper geometry to begin with.

mnem

[Brumby]

I still can't get over the state in which it has been presented.  Seriously, if you want to sell something for $800, you should at least make an attempt at looking like it's a functional printer that is worth something.

Using that seller's logic, I could offer a box of various 3 year old items tossed in and ask retail.


Not gonna happen.

[mnementh]

Well, there is the possibility that he actually is high on crack...

mnem
 

[beanflying]

The more likely case is just NFI. I paid less than the BIN price landed for my CR-10S in mid 2018 so clearly zero thought into what is available now and what a now technically dated abomination looks like to a potential buyer. Based on what else has been around recently in Oz maybe at a real stretch $2-300 maybe but $800 is 

[mnementh]

It’s literally worth the value of the bed plate, stepper motors and extruder.

The controller is a prehistoric RAMPS clone with soldered A4988s. The hotend is a horrible Mk6 clone everybody immediately printed a bracket to replace with a cheap V6 clone. The rollers were cheap, and they didn’t last long on the non-V-slot extrusion. Oh, wait. There ARE a couple 40mm fans worth what... $2 each...?

Seriously. I half suspect the listing is a gag, or to torment someone.

mnem
 

[Brumby]

The more likely case is just NFI.

Agreed.

Seriously. I half suspect the listing is a gag, or to torment someone.

Not impossible - but I'm with Bean on the probability.

[tom66]

My Anet A8 Plus was a "bit" of a pain to wire together, but overall, I would say not that hard, and it looked pretty comparable to that Tarantula when I started and now looks a bit like the user manual.  There were no guides for how to neaten the wiring but they provide some cable organisers and cable ties, I'm pretty sure even a trained monkey could manage to make it look a little neater.  I, too, sense NFI.

[mnementh]

That POS Tarantula has enjoyed entirely too much free rent in my head. Time for something to take our minds off it. 

mnem
*building bicycles*

[beanflying]

$129 USD worth of Cuteness? 75x75x75 volume unheated bed.

[tom66]

Latest 3D print.  Inspired by @tautech (though certainly not on the same level!) I 3D printed a stand for my GW PSP-603 power supply so I could put my hot air and soldering iron station below it. It's printed in blue AmazonBasics PETG, and supporting about 10kg of equipment.



This was a good experiment in using Fusion 360 to create a honeycomb mesh to improve the tensile strength of the upper table.  I preferred this to filling with a solid plane as the print time and filament usage would be extraordinary otherwise. It used about 200g of filament so cost around GBP£4.

The solid parts are printed with 30% infill and the legs are hollowed out. The stiffness is impressive, though the legs are just friction fit in.

I plan to modify this further to add clips for the hotair pieces which are presently stuck on the top of the station.  And no I'm not worried about the heat as I let the wand cool down before it gets near anything plastic.

[beanflying]

No good here most of my Front Bench toys are too heavy 

Today's Fusion work in progress is a modified Laser Final mirror and Lens holder for my current little 40W one. The stock one has some known geometry issues and a lack of Lens options so this is a hybrid to use bigger Lenses and fix the geometry.

Two 3D printed parts and an Aluminium plate for the Belt and Cable Drag Train. Printing it will be the easy bit 

[Jay_Diddy_B]

No good here most of my Front Bench toys are too heavy 

Today's Fusion work in progress is a modified Laser Final mirror and Lens holder for my current little 40W one. The stock one has some known geometry issues and a lack of Lens options so this is a hybrid to use bigger Lenses and fix the geometry.

Two 3D printed parts and an Aluminium plate for the Belt and Cable Drag Train. Printing it will be the easy bit 

Interesting project.

How do you print the 'optical cube' to ensure that this angle is 45^o?



Or does it matter?

I would be interested to see which orientation you print the part.

Thanks!!

Jay_Diddy_B

[Zucca]

      

Thanks, bean! 

mnem
squeeee!

http://www.yqcomputer.com/213_1146_3.htm#p41

[beanflying]

No good here most of my Front Bench toys are too heavy 

Today's Fusion work in progress is a modified Laser Final mirror and Lens holder for my current little 40W one. The stock one has some known geometry issues and a lack of Lens options so this is a hybrid to use bigger Lenses and fix the geometry.

Two 3D printed parts and an Aluminium plate for the Belt and Cable Drag Train. Printing it will be the easy bit 

Interesting project.

How do you print the 'optical cube' to ensure that this angle is 45^o?

(Attachment Link)

Or does it matter?

I would be interested to see which orientation you print the part.

Thanks!!

Jay_Diddy_B

The main block will print as shown base down without supports and doesn't need them as all the angles are under 45 degrees and the tops of the holes will bridge fine based on other similar structures (most likely go with 0.1mm layers to help).

What isn't shown that well and I haven't added them yet is the three knurlnuts that the three mirror adjustment screws go into (EDIT found a better shot of my Laser). The 45 only needs to be in the ballpark due to the adjustment available. So I will be reusing the Aluminium Mirror holder, partly to dump the small amount of heat the mirror losses will cause and also 'it exists' 

[Jay_Diddy_B]

What isn't shown that well and I haven't added them yet is the three knurlnuts that the three mirror adjustment screws go into (EDIT found a better shot of my Laser). The 45 only needs to be in the ballpark due to the adjustment available.

So I will be reusing the Aluminium Mirror holder, partly to dump the small amount of heat the mirror losses will cause and also 'it exists' 

Thanks for the explanation. I thought you would need a screwup adjusting mechanism 

Jay_Diddy_B

[HobGoblyn]

Yay, it's fully assembled.

First two attempts at bed levelling  didn't go so good.  But on my third it was almost perfect (in my eyes) see attached pic.

Bottom left (where the home position is) isn't perfect, , but the bed adjuster there feels very loose when the bed is level.   I think I'll look into stronger springs.

Now for a few tests