3D Printer yet?

[mnementh]

Watching now. Looks like all the info I spent a morning finding for myself before pledging pulled together into a single video.

mnem
 

[mnementh]

So far the only surprise is that the thing still has a 3010 on the hotend; looks like still plenty of room to go 4010 with a little spacer. I wonder why they KEEP using those noisy little 30mm fans...? Maybe they need the air velocity from that little screamer? Or maybe keeping weight down so they can try and get head velocity up...?

Might be a bit crowded if one wants to go with a larger layer fan; will probably need to lose the metal cover altogether for any variant of 'Fang.

I have no problem with the "Bowden tube directly against the nozzle" hotend design; I know how to make that seal properly and am still not interested in ABS/Nylon. Pretty sure Cap tubing will make PTFE a relatively easy adventure with the stock hotend, and if I want to go ABS/Nylon at a later date, I'd probably mod a Volcano on there anyways.

Maybe I could design a quick-change so it's easy to swap between the two hotends if I have problems with the all-metal Volcano and PLA. The integral auto-leveling would make swaps dead-simple.

mnem
*toddles off to ded*

[mnementh]

*pokes thread with a stick*

Anybody alive in here...?

mnem

[tom66]

Has anyone printed a filter for room dust with a 3D printer yet?  I have no end of dust in my "lab/office" and despite regular vacuuming it continues to gather on PCBs and projects.  I would think a small HEPA filter with a fan to draw air through it could work reasonably well but I've no idea of the power required or if it would make so much noise as to be a horrible distraction. 

[mnementh]

More dust. But fun. 

mnem
 

[CatalinaWOW]

Has anyone printed a filter for room dust with a 3D printer yet?  I have no end of dust in my "lab/office" and despite regular vacuuming it continues to gather on PCBs and projects.  I would think a small HEPA filter with a fan to draw air through it could work reasonably well but I've no idea of the power required or if it would make so much noise as to be a horrible distraction.

This is one of those things that seem better to buy than build.  They are readily available (or at least were before COVID) and not expensive.

Unless the fun of doing airflow design is what you are after.

[tom66]

No, that's a fair point, it just might be a fun project.  I have no experience with airflow design though so yes, it might just end up being yet another unfinished project.  Too many of those!

[Jeroen3]

I have seen some pictures of re-used car filters for standard axial fans. But to get any silent running with some pressure you'd need radial fans. Those go expensive quickly.
3D printing filters is difficult, my room air filters are hepa, good luck with that.

There are some people who 3D printed large dust particle filters for pc cases though, basically they only use infill and perimeters.

[HobGoblyn]

Still struggling with firmware.

Upgraded SKR mini using the latest Bigtree firmware and that's working fine.

Still having problems with the tft firmware, to copy what I  posted a couple of hours ago in the "Ender3 Modding - HARDWARE - FIRMWARE - SOFTWARE" facebook group,

Hi all, completely new to this so please bare with me.

Have put the Bigtreetech SKR Mini E3 v1.2 and TFT35 E3 V3.0 touch screen on my new Ender Pro.

I upgraded the firmware on the SKR mini fine.

I'm trying to update the firmware on the TFT35 E3

It comes up with:

0;TFT35/bmp/HOME_MOVE.bmp
Error: BMP file not found

It does this for the following

HOME_MOVE.bmp
HEAT_FAN.bmp
MANUAL_LEVEL.bmp
COOLDOWN.bmp
STATUSNOZZLE.bmp
STATUSBED.bmp
STATUSFAN.bmp
MAINMENU.bmp
STATUS_SPEED.bmp
STATUS_FLOW.bmp
GLOBAL_NOZZLE.bmp
GLOBAL_BED.bmp
PRINTING_NOZZLE.bmp
PRINTING_BED.bmp
PRINTING_FAN.bmp
PRINTING_TIMER.bmp
PRINTING_ZLAYER.bmp
PRINTING_SPEED.bmp
PRINTING_FLOW.bmp
Infobox.bmp

on github, someone else mentions this problem and the response is

"This isn't a bug. There are differences and new icons in the development branch (master) and you will need to take note of those, or use the icons provided in the development branch."

I've tried the Master branch  here  and get the same problem.

Someone else said on github

"You can get release versions (including source code and all icons) from Releases page: here     "

and I've tried downloading Vx.x.26 from there and the same thing is happening.

Any suggestions please?

Many thanks

[xrunner]

I just got the firmware here -

https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-TouchScreenFirmware

I updated using the unified menu material theme and it worked OK but for the following issue.

This time and the last time I did it these .bmp in the  /TFT/bmp dir did not update -

Status_Fan
Status_Bed
Status_Nozzle

I believe I re-named them last time to this format like the other files, and they loaded -

status_fan
status_bed
status_nozzle

However I did not do it this time because the images look OK, even though it complained about them again. 

Poor quality control on their side.

[Domagoj T]

Has anyone printed a filter for room dust with a 3D printer yet?  I have no end of dust in my "lab/office" and despite regular vacuuming it continues to gather on PCBs and projects.  I would think a small HEPA filter with a fan to draw air through it could work reasonably well but I've no idea of the power required or if it would make so much noise as to be a horrible distraction.

Check this:

[mnementh]

Most of the really effective solutions I've seen revolve around a cube with cheap fiberglas filters on 5 sides and a large diameter fan in updraft mode; usually ducted such that exhaust drives air back towards the cube. If HEPA filtration is needed, it is usually a pleated cartridge filter between the cube & the fan, so that the cheap 'glas filters collect most of the particulate to extend the life of the HEPA filter.

There are also plastic mesh filters that supposedly collect dust via air-electrostatic action like the 'glas ones do; supposedly they are also safer.

mnem
 

[mnementh]

   

Feeling ERFFy? Or maybe MRRFy...?

mnem
*BLRRFy*

[mnementh]

      

Ooooh... new stretch goals met. I knew about the 32-Bit board; now they're including TMC2209s and a spare nozzle/PTFE kit. I would still prefer Cap tubing, but hey...

Secondarily... BASTARDS. Got me for another $40 with their ADDONS promotion; bought a spare UltraBase cuz it'll never be cheaper than $10, and also added a hotend and piezo transducer base so I can work on mods without having to strip the printer.

Terrible, TERRIBLE thing they've done to us poor 3DP meatheads.

mnem
 

[mnementh]

Looks like Chuck likes it too, for the same reason as I do: all the stuff that comes already built-in. He gave it a "Good deal at $349" (same price as the E3 Pro on Amazon) even with the 8-bit board on his advance copy.

Don't know where he got his estimate of the retail price tho; checking every bracket on the KS the retail price adds up to ~US$400.

mnem
Just waiting for the CR10-E3 Effect (inevitable price-hikes once the first wave is in people's hands and only a few 3rd-party vendors still have them in stock) to strike the CR6...

[HobGoblyn]

I just got the firmware here -

https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-TouchScreenFirmware

I updated using the unified menu material theme and it worked OK but for the following issue.

This time and the last time I did it these .bmp in the  /TFT/bmp dir did not update -

Status_Fan
Status_Bed
Status_Nozzle

I believe I re-named them last time to this format like the other files, and they loaded -

status_fan
status_bed
status_nozzle

However I did not do it this time because the images look OK, even though it complained about them again. 

Poor quality control on their side.

Thanks, worked perfectly

[mnementh]

Awesome!

Where are you at on the MB swap, HG? Ready to start printing upgrades yet...?

mnem
 

[HobGoblyn]

The MB upgrade is complete.

Almost ready to start printing. Just need to sort out my over extrusion which I shall do tomorrow afternoon.

[beanflying]

For better or worse I started a Fusion 360 Thread  https://www.eevblog.com/forum/eda/fusion-360-mechanical-design-tips-tweaks-and-discussion-(not-eagle)/msg3084200/#msg3084200

[tom66]

Had an interesting near disaster last night

Filament got tangled on the roll.  Printer extruder motor ended up pulling the filament reel off the hanger completely and dumping it on the bed.  Then it continued to print.  I heard it from the other room, and went it to see the chaos.

Somehow, the print itself was undisturbed because it all worked out in the end but if I had been asleep it is likely at the least I would have spaghetti and worst case the extruder element may have set fire to the large reel of filament if it got jammed in place somehow.

This was AmazonBasics PETG and it obviously came kinked because I have not unwound it before.

[mnementh]

So... it seems like it would be wise to do a visual inspection of the top layers of the roll, looking for crossed winds before starting a print I guess...?

PLA will generally self-correct even if it crosses over itself as it tends to be a pretty hard & dry surface that slides against itself. But I understand PETG tends to have a pretty high "stiction" factor, being almost sticky when laid against itself, correct?

mnem
*taking notes for future experiments with PETG*

[beanflying]

Based on years of spooling and unspooling 400m runs of 1-1.5 mm Molofiliment issues such as knots NEVER HAPPEN by magic they are the result of a human dropping an end under a loose coil then using it. Doesn't matter if it happened at the factory or end users but it can happen it NEVER HAPPENS on the machine during the wind that is IMPOSSIBLE.

$ spend and any correlation to this is 

Don't buy the 10$/kg bin and problems are gone.
If you like gambling build the printer in a way it can handle 1.75+-0.25mm and fast/easy maintenance of the hotend. Also, rewind every spool to check for thicker than 2.00 mm sections and other problems.


snip....

I am yet to see a spool vary by 0.25mm  1.71 is the smallest I have come across and generally evilbay generic filament PETG or PLA runs within +-0.02mm and I do check.

[HobGoblyn]

Hmm.  I use Marlin to level the bed, do it about 10 times, get it near perfect.

I then try the touch screen levelling. The home has a very very very slight catch of the paper, the other 3 corners the papers not touching the nozzle. So I spend a while levelling it with the touch screen bed leveller, get it near perfect, I then go back to Marlin and the paper is wedged solid under the levelling points.

Am I to presume if I intend to print with Marlin, I level with Marlin, and if I intend to print with the touch screen, I level with the touch screen?

Just want to check something weird isn't going on.

Thanks

[HobGoblyn]

And now things are going backwards.

The motors have gone back to being noisy, tried in Marlin and touch screen.

I just reloaded the firmware that came with the BIGTREE  SKR mini and the motors are still noisy AAARRRRGGGGGHHHHHHHHH

[mnementh]

Hmm.  I use Marlin to level the bed, do it about 10 times, get it near perfect. I then try the touch screen levelling. The home has a very very very slight catch of the paper, the other 3 corners the papers not touching the nozzle. So I spend a while levelling it with the touch screen bed leveller, get it near perfect, I then go back to Marlin and the paper is wedged solid under the levelling points.

Am I to presume if I intend to print with Marlin, I level with Marlin, and if I intend to print with the touch screen, I level with the touch screen? Just want to check something weird isn't going on.   Thanks

And now things are going backwards.

The motors have gone back to being noisy, tried in Marlin and touch screen. I just reloaded the firmware that came with the BIGTREE  SKR mini and the motors are still noisy AAARRRRGGGGGHHHHHHHHH

Sounds to me like your default Z offset is different between the two firmwares; or at least different for this material type. Aside from hunting that down, I have no idea how to fix your problem.

Have you adjusted the stepper driver current on the MB yet? That tends to make a profound difference in stepper noise; as do the default travel speeds and jerk/accel in the firmware. My DIGGRO had the driver current set uniformly about 20% lower than recommendations found online; when I set them to recommendations I noticed better surface on my prints, but the steppers were definitely louder.

No idea where you'll find  the default travel speeds and jerk/accel in your FW... these are things I've noted by playing with settings in the slicer, not the FW, so may be completely wrong for your case.  Just offering suggestions as to what I'd start looking for.

Also, of course, before you get TOO hung up on these things, you should make sure the noise isn't from something you've changed mechanically.

mnem