3D Printer yet?

[xrunner]

And now things are going backwards.

The motors have gone back to being noisy, tried in Marlin and touch screen.

I just reloaded the firmware that came with the BIGTREE  SKR mini and the motors are still noisy AAARRRRGGGGGHHHHHHHHH

Please find attched my configuration files (Marlin 2.0.5.3). I have the same board, steppers, and display as you do and my system is working great. Check the settings for various accelerations and tmc driver currents in the files as needed.

[xrunner]

One note: I have Mesh bed leveling activated, which is superior to simple manual leveling -

Mesh Bed Leveling (MBL) allows interactively measuring a Z height mesh without a bed probe. The only tool required is a piece of paper or a feeler gauge. MBL uses the mesh to compensate for variations in height across the bed.

https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/G029-mbl.html

In my Configuration.h you will find -

/**
 * Add a bed leveling sub-menu for ABL or MBL.
 * Include a guided procedure if manual probing is enabled.
 */
#define LCD_BED_LEVELING

and

#define MESH_BED_LEVELING

and

#define MESH_INSET 30          // Set Mesh bounds as an inset region of the bed
#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X 4    // Don't use more than 7 points per axis, implementation limited.
#define GRID_MAX_POINTS_Y GRID_MAX_POINTS_X

The above will guide you through a 4 x 4 array of points on the bed one at a time, and the inset will be 30 mm from the edges (but you can change that and also the number of points to your preference. I changed mine to 4 points from the original 3 points. As you can see it sets the Y points to equal the X points. You can only run this from a menu in the Marlin LCD display mode because it does not exist as an option in the touch screen display (not mesh leveling anyway). At each point you use the knob to move the Z axis up or down until you get the point calibrated, and it moves to the next point one-by-one each time you push the knob to save the setting.

Motion - Leveling - Level Bed

But when you are done you can go back to the touch screen display until the next time you need to do a mesh bed leveling. Trust me it's way better than simple manual bed leveling you should try it. 

[HobGoblyn]

Watching a video on mesh bed levelling, the guy also recommends

#define RESTORE_LEVELING_AFTER_G 28

He says this makes sure the mesh bed levelling is used every time a new print starts, he says that otherwise we need to add

M420 S1 to the printers list of G code in the slicer software.

EDIT: I see you already have this enabled

[HobGoblyn]

Hmm, not sure whats going on, spent hours on this, not giving up.

I've made sure Configuration.h and configuration_adv.h are almost identical to those Xrunner posted. Only differences are either comments, or things where my version has things called slightly different, for example

XR: #if HAS_TRINAMIC
ME: #if HAS_TRINAMIC_CONFIG

or

XR:   #ifdef PROBE_TEMP_COMPENSATION
ME:   #if ENABLED(PROBE_TEMP_COMPENSATION)

or

XR: #if HAS_GRAPHICAL_LCD && HAS_PRINT_PROGRESS
ME: #if HAS_CHARACTER_LCD && EITHER(SDSUPPORT, LCD_SET_PROGRESS_MANUALLY)



First I'm having trouble flashing, keeps coming up with Eprom error  (have tried initialising eprom first, original firmware still loads fine)




But looking through menu, things seem to be working




However, motors very very noisy.

Things get odd.


I re-flashed the original firmware supplied with the SKR board, motors still noisy.  (sorry no vid)


Due to the original firmware aslo being noisy, I went back to square 1, I remove the SKR board and temporarily replace the original board and screen.

The motors are quieter than with the SKR:  Original board and firmware

I refitted the SKR and screen, still getting eprom error when flashing,
and as you can see, motor is noisier than the original board on both Marlin and TFT.


SKR Marlin with my firmware

SKR Touch screen with my firmware


So, I re-flashed the original SKR firmware, and this time (unlike earlier) it's as quiet as a mouse

Original SKR firmware now quiet unlike earlier

It's also the same on the TFT screen.

Weird how earlier this didn't happen and they remained loud.

Anyway, I'm now trying to sort out why I keep getting this Eprom index error, then hopefully can put the newer firmware on and try mesh leveling.

I've been at this all day, now 17:00 and still stuck lol.  It's not going to beat me

[mnementh]

         

I think I've had enough joy for one day. 

mnem
*toddling off to ded*

[beanflying]

Progress sort of then

Just looking at your sketch why have you dimensioned the top and bottom nodes of what will become the front and back rails? This will give them a small taper? But it is GOOD to see all black lines fully constrained lines 

[mnementh]

Yes; doing it that way allowed me to make the inner walls a uniform 15mm thick instead of front/back tapering to like 9mm & 21mm due to the angle of incidence.

I made bottom/back 90deg, defined bottom & top plane lines at 310mm length, then dragged the floating end of the top plane line til it intersected the 45mm vertical quadrille. The front plane was the last line; it just closed the perimeter at the balance of the angles.

After that I set front & back plane lines as fixed, then measured from them along top + bottom plane lines to 15mm to make those walls uniform. 

Spent some time figuring out multiple holes on a sketch for screw holes, and using constraints to locate the points uniformly as well.    Yes, I’m gonna be lazy and screw directly into the plastic; the box is designed such that the entire bottom can be removed just by pulling the hinge pin if needed for tinkery. That’s why 5 screws on the hinge panel.

The only real fail I had was trying to make the curve for the back hinge by doing concentric circles about the hinge axis; to save my life I just couldn’t get the create line/create arc function to play nice. Eventually I gave up and just made it a fillet from the separation line with radius chosen to err on the “slightly too large gap” side of caution.

I’ve saved a copy of it as another project so I can remix the back hinge panel as needed; at this point I believe I’m
ready to start doing fillets. Then it’ll be a matter of sectioning the box into quarters for printing and done.

mnem
*knocks on wood*

[Canis Dirus Leidy]

Some messing with FreeCAD (enclosure for XJW01):

I also wanted to add a handle "a-la Gainta" for carrying and adjusting the tilt, but, on the one hand, I am not a mechanical engineer (I did not understand how to make the handle rotate by hand, but at the same time it did not turn under the weight of the device) , and on the other, with such PCB layout, the BNC connectors at bottom will strike against the table.

[xrunner]

Hmm, not sure whats going on, spent hours on this, not giving up.

I've made sure Configuration.h and configuration_adv.h are almost identical to those Xrunner posted. Only differences are either comments, or things where my version has things called slightly different ...

Hmm. Maybe I didn't glean this from your post, but if you have the SKR board and the touchscreen installed, your printer (as far as the electrical components) is the same as mine (steppers, end-stops switches, fans, ...). Why don't you just use my configs as-is, and compile Marlin 2.0.5.3 and install that? If it doesn't run well and quietly, I should think you have some mechanical issues of some sort.

Sorry if you actually did that, I wasn't sure.

[HobGoblyn]

Hmm, not sure whats going on, spent hours on this, not giving up.

I've made sure Configuration.h and configuration_adv.h are almost identical to those Xrunner posted. Only differences are either comments, or things where my version has things called slightly different ...

Hmm. Maybe I didn't glean this from your post, but if you have the SKR board and the touchscreen installed, your printer (as far as the electrical components) is the same as mine (steppers, end-stops switches, fans, ...). Why don't you just use my configs as-is, and compile Marlin 2.0.5.3 and install that? If it doesn't run well and quietly, I should think you have some mechanical issues of some sort.

Sorry if you actually did that, I wasn't sure.

I wanted to see where I was going wrong.  I painstakingly went through comparing your files to mine, but I obviously screwed up.  For a start mine takes about 10 mins to compile (i7 32GB PC).

I've just replaced my configuration.h and configaration_adv.h with yours, compiled and it took around 2 mins (if that)

Loaded it onto the printer, printer came up with EEPROM Index error, tried moving motors, still noisy.  Turned printer off and back on, this time no EEPROM error, it correctly comes up with "Build 11apr20 Ready."

Motors are now WHISPER quiet on both Marlin and TFT.  Many many many thanks, I should have done this when you sent them to me, but I like to try and work out why I'm going wrong

My Creality aluminium extruder thingy has just been posted through the letterbox.  Think I'll fix that on, mesh level the bed, then try a test print

[mnementh]

I get it... Instead of just using the prepackaged solution given to him by another... he wanted to know, ya know...? 

mnem
Grok in fullness, my friend.

[mnementh]

   Some messing with FreeCAD (enclosure for XJW01):   
I also wanted to add a handle "a-la Gainta" for carrying and adjusting the tilt, but, on the one hand, I am not a mechanical engineer (I did not understand how to make the handle rotate by hand, but at the same time it did not turn under the weight of the device) , and on the other, with such PCB layout, the BNC connectors at bottom will strike against the table.

Typically such handle joints are made with what is called a ratcheting pivot or a ratcheting swivel.

This one uses a notched plane against a proud rounded tab to achieve the ratcheting action: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2930131

This one uses a notched drum which faces holes with springs and ball bearings: https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/e0/20/9c/58/57/ed68a36b20de765deb18508e0453e11b_preview_card.jpg

I generally prefer the latter design; it has a more positive detent action and stays smooth a lot longer under normal use, plus joint detent strength is easily adjusted by putting spacers under the springs.

As for those problem BNCs... it really wouldn't take much to add a chin surface to the back plane or the bottom plate protruding out an a angle for the tool to rest on which would protect them.

Alternately, substitute 180° BNCs as seen on this version:      

mnem

[xrunner]

I've just replaced my configuration.h and configaration_adv.h with yours, compiled and it took around 2 mins (if that)

Loaded it onto the printer, printer came up with EEPROM Index error, tried moving motors, still noisy.  Turned printer off and back on, this time no EEPROM error, it correctly comes up with "Build 11apr20 Ready."

Motors are now WHISPER quiet on both Marlin and TFT.  Many many many thanks, I should have done this when you sent them to me, but I like to try and work out why I'm going wrong

Great! 

I get it... Instead of just using the prepackaged solution given to him by another... he wanted to know, ya know...? 

Yes I realize that. Just for a test he could try mine to eliminate issues, and of course go back and learn where the differences were.

[HobGoblyn]

I get it... Instead of just using the prepackaged solution given to him by another... he wanted to know, ya know...? 

Yes I realize that. Just for a test he could try mine to eliminate issues, and of course go back and learn where the differences were.

That presumes I have some common sense

[mnementh]

Touche'.   

mnem
 

[xrunner]

That presumes I have some common sense

Oh I guarantee you have more common sense than 95% of the occupants of this Rock.

[mnementh]

Hey... I resemble that remark!   

mnem
*currently doing some sketches on... *gasp*... PAPER...*

[HobGoblyn]

I love the mesh levelling.

I presume once it's done that's it, it remembers it?  Reason I ask is that I forgot to heat the bed first, and when I ran the levelling again, it started at 0.00

Thinking about it, that makes kind of sense, I expected it to give me the numbers I previously dialled in.

[xrunner]

I love the mesh levelling.

I presume once it's done that's it, it remembers it?  Reason I ask is that I forgot to heat the bed first, and when I ran the levelling again, it started at 0.00

Thinking about it, that makes kind of sense, I expected it to give me the numbers I previously dialled in.

Yes it stores the offsets in EEPROM. They will only disappear if you load new firmware. I haven't leveled my bed in a month - it just works so much better. If you communicate with the printer issue a M503 command and you can see many parameters as well as the mesh offsets if you want to check on them. Here's mine -

Recv: echo:; Mesh Bed Leveling:
Recv: echo:  M420 S1 Z0.00
Recv: echo:  G29 S3 I0 J0 Z-0.15000
Recv: echo:  G29 S3 I1 J0 Z-0.25000
Recv: echo:  G29 S3 I2 J0 Z-0.30000
Recv: echo:  G29 S3 I3 J0 Z-0.40000
Recv: echo:  G29 S3 I0 J1 Z-0.30000
Recv: echo:  G29 S3 I1 J1 Z-0.25000
Recv: echo:  G29 S3 I2 J1 Z-0.25000
Recv: echo:  G29 S3 I3 J1 Z-0.25000
Recv: echo:  G29 S3 I0 J2 Z-0.30000
Recv: echo:  G29 S3 I1 J2 Z-0.15000
Recv: echo:  G29 S3 I2 J2 Z-0.30000
Recv: echo:  G29 S3 I3 J2 Z-0.45000
Recv: echo:  G29 S3 I0 J3 Z-0.30000
Recv: echo:  G29 S3 I1 J3 Z-0.20000
Recv: echo:  G29 S3 I2 J3 Z-0.10000
Recv: echo:  G29 S3 I3 J3 Z-0.40000

[HobGoblyn]

I noticed when doing mine that sometimes when turning the knob it went up/down in increments of 0.25, other times it was 0.50.

[xrunner]

I noticed when doing mine that sometimes when turning the knob it went up/down in increments of 0.25, other times it was 0.50.

You might have meant .025 or .05? The default was .025 but I found it was just a little too fine for me. I changed it to .05 step for each detent. The encoder sometimes doesn't step very accurately so it gives two steps instead of one. You can play with the steps as you see fit it as shown below (but that won't fix the double-steps of the encoder) - change it to any value you want to - well within reason of course. 

/**
 * Add a bed leveling sub-menu for ABL or MBL.
 * Include a guided procedure if manual probing is enabled.
 */
#define LCD_BED_LEVELING

#if ENABLED(LCD_BED_LEVELING)
  #define MESH_EDIT_Z_STEP  0.05 // (mm) Step size while manually probing Z axis. Default 0.025
  #define LCD_PROBE_Z_RANGE 4     // (mm) Z Range centered on Z_MIN_POS for LCD Z adjustment
  //#define MESH_EDIT_MENU        // Add a menu to edit mesh points
#endif

[mnementh]

Urrgh. Finally got to the point of one segment of the box done; exported as STL and sliced. Now finding my printer doesn't like making parts right at 220 x 220; even tho it SUPPOSEDLY has a 235 x 235 build area. It cuts the print short ~12mm from the right edge of the bed; volume settings in Cura agree with the advertised build volume.

I've had enough joy for one day.

Good luck HobGoblyn; hope today is better for you than it has been for me!

mnem
*crawls off into a delightfully cool, dank cave*

[HobGoblyn]

Going further backwards.

I'm convinced my SKR mini E3 must be faulty.  This is exactly the same problem I had the other day when my motors went noisy again. They were perfectly quiet, I hadn't changed anything and they went noisy.  Then I posted about it here and xrunnner kindly sent me his config files. Yesterday I compiled using xrunner's files and all whisper quiet.  Today back to being noisy again as vid below shows.

Noisy Again

Last thing I did was last night was go through mesh levelling, whisper quiet as I did so.


On top of that, I have fitted Creality aluminium extrude, and it's slipping/jolting. If I feed 10mm at a time, first one always goes fine, then sometimes it's OK for next 2 or 3, then it starts constantly slipping.  See below vid.

Extruder slipping


I've tried loosening the circled screw to see if that helps, but no difference




I think I will return the SKR mini and get another one. 

[xrunner]

I think I will return the SKR mini and get another one.

Yep. Sounds like it's about that time.

[HobGoblyn]

I also posted an edited version of the above post on Creality official Ender 3 facebook page.

Someones responded,  Even if that works, it makes me wonder why I need to swap the jumper when others don't.