3D Printer yet?

[xrunner]

Has to do with this -

Note：
1.Settings about Spread: Low=StealthChop, High=SpreadCycle；
The hardware selection terminal SPREAD is reserved on the motherboard, and users can set it directly in the firmware (there is no need to insert any short-circuit cap on the motherboard).

It doesn't sound like it matters because -

there is no need to insert any short-circuit cap on the motherboard


I never set or changed the jumper on mine.

In Configuration_adv.h it's selected as shown -

/**
   * TMC2130, TMC2160, TMC2208, TMC2209, TMC5130 and TMC5160 only
   * Use Trinamic's ultra quiet stepping mode.
   * When disabled, Marlin will use spreadCycle stepping mode.
   */
  #define STEALTHCHOP_XY
  #define STEALTHCHOP_Z
  #define STEALTHCHOP_E

[HobGoblyn]

Has to do with this -

Note：
1.Settings about Spread: Low=StealthChop, High=SpreadCycle；
The hardware selection terminal SPREAD is reserved on the motherboard, and users can set it directly in the firmware (there is no need to insert any short-circuit cap on the motherboard).

It doesn't sound like it matters because -

there is no need to insert any short-circuit cap on the motherboard


I never set or changed the jumper on mine.

In Configuration_adv.h it's selected as shown -

/**
   * TMC2130, TMC2160, TMC2208, TMC2209, TMC5130 and TMC5160 only
   * Use Trinamic's ultra quiet stepping mode.
   * When disabled, Marlin will use spreadCycle stepping mode.
   */
  #define STEALTHCHOP_XY
  #define STEALTHCHOP_Z
  #define STEALTHCHOP_E

While I totally agree with your logic, and mine being your config files, is also set the same, I wasn't expecting moving the jumper to make any difference. 

But it has cured the problem, motors back to being whisper quiet.

Why it worked fine after flashing the firmware yesterday , and why it didn't work(before moving jumper)  flashing the same firmware today is anyone's guess. 
The only thing constant with going from quiet to loud was it always happened the following day after there had been no mains power to the printer for a good 6hrs plus. 

I asked on facebook why I need to move my jumpers when others don't, the response was that sometimes the boards get sent out with the jumpers in the wrong place.

My concern now is that is moving the jumper, simply masking a hardware problem, will it for instance forget my mesh settings overnight etc (not connected to PC so cant  find out, although my wife did buy me a Raspberry 4 kit for my birthday last month, haven't had time to play with it yet).

Would be interesting to know the position of the jumper in other peoples machines (I obviously don't expect people to find out, it's a lot of hassle), mine was in the top two of the three pins looking at the pic I posted earlier, it is now in the bottom two.

[HobGoblyn]

So I've sorted all my problems. Guys on facebook suggested removing the spring infill and use the original spring to fix aluminium extrude juddering.

This worked and I am now ready to print.

I cleaned the bed with IPA

I go through the mesh levelling again  (as reloaded firmware earlier) and did a simple first layer test. 

In Cura, I set the following.

Initial layer height 0.24mm
Printing temperature 200
Build plate temperature 60
Initial layer speed 15 mm/s
Initial fan speed 0% (climbing to normal fan speed at layer 5)

It printed the outside square fine. I then returned a few mins later to find this



Think I'll call it a day for now   Might have to get the whiskey out

EDIT: I tried a gcode of the test that I originally tried to print on it's side, that is a gcode I know works. First layer not sticking at all.  Maybe I need to redo the mesh levelling and go one bit tighter on every point. Will have to wait until tomorrow now.

[mnementh]

HobGoblyn, ya summitch! Ya infected MY 3DP bliss with yer "basic hardware problems" disease.

Turns out there's some pretty fundamental flaws in the geometry of the Diggro; I'm looking into the causes right now, but first guess is probably due to me changing the OEM extruder backplate for the CReality one.  Biggest one is the BS marketing: The bed SIZE is 235mm²; so obviously you're NOT going to have 235mm² build area. 

But there's more; that annoyance only means that one has to get the tolerances mighty close to even get 225-230mm²print area, but one SHOULD be able to and honestly, that SHOULD have been done by the MFR. grr.

Both X and Y axis mechanical limits (NOT the limit switches; the point where things collide) are offset such that on one end of travel it stops ~10-12mm short of the bed edge, while at the other end of travel it can travel ~10-12mm past the bed.

The weird part is that when watching it print, it does not appear to actually bottom out in any direction, even when it is truncating the print in the X-axis. I fear that may be some firmware skullduggery limiting the travel in software.

mnem
*back to the misery pit*

[HobGoblyn]

Yep, 3D printing isn't for the faint hearted lol.

Reminds me of my old Satellite box, was a German linux affair, took me days to get it set up, and rarely did two months pass until I had to dive in and change something (different transponder for channel etc)

My wife said that there's no way she can work out what to do when it goes wrong, and  the day I die, she's throwing it away and getting a Sky box

Her wish has partly came true in that Sky offered me a black Friday deal I couldn't refuse.

While Sky Q is really nice, being able to customise everything on my Linux box, there are certain things I miss. 

Arranging the channels exactly as I want them. 

Setting skip speeds to whatever I want by  pressing 1/3, 4/6, 7/9.  I had it so pressing 3 skipped a minute, 6 four mins and 9 ten secs.   That meant when watching something I've recorded, if an ad break comes on, pressing 6 normally skips right to the end of the adds instantly etc.  I could also record at least 8 channels at once.  Good fun but not at all plug and play.

I can see my 3D printing is going to be very similar 

Luckily I enjoy a challenge

[xrunner]

Think I'll call it a day for now   Might have to get the whiskey out

Yea have drink and take a break - we've all had fucked-up issues like that.

Return with a hammer and beat it into submission. 

[mnementh]

Yep, 3D printing isn't for the faint hearted lol.

Reminds me of my old Satellite box, was a German linux affair, took me days to get it set up, and rarely did two months pass until I had to dive in and change something (different transponder for channel etc)

My wife said that there's no way she can work out what to do when it goes wrong, and  the day I die, she's throwing it away and getting a Sky box

Her wish has partly came true in that Sky offered me a black Friday deal I couldn't refuse.

While Sky Q is really nice, being able to customise everything on my Linux box, there are certain things I miss. 

Arranging the channels exactly as I want them. 

Setting skip speeds to whatever I want by  pressing 1/3, 4/6, 7/9.  I had it so pressing 3 skipped a minute, 6 four mins and 9 ten secs.   That meant when watching something I've recorded, if an ad break comes on, pressing 6 normally skips right to the end of the adds instantly etc.  I could also record at least 8 channels at once.  Good fun but not at all plug and play.

I can see my 3D printing is going to be very similar 

Luckily I enjoy a challenge

Yeah, I remember similar fun back in the day using ReplayTV on C & KU-bands; I had dual 1TB drives in mine and there were configuration scripts to customize the firmware with all that schizz and make the ReplayTV control most of the popular set-top IRDs.

I still have my complete collection of Kung-Fu ripped from that setup in my archives...

mnem
 

[mnementh]

Think I'll call it a day for now   Might have to get the whiskey out

Yea have drink and take a break - we've all had fucked-up issues like that.

Return with a hammer and beat it into submission. 

I don't think he went for a drink... I think he came up North to haunt my 3DP. 

By dint of adding spacers, lengthening belts and a little grinding/filing, I got the mechanicals sorted so both axes can physically travel ~3mm past the bed in both directions. Relocated the limit switches, went to test, and it homed X-Y susccessfully, so I tested X-travel.  It counted up to 220mm and then went plumb loco; first it froze up then it (or the touchscreen) started bootlooping. Powered down and waited a couple minutes; it booted then refused to do anything. Power cycled again and bootloop.

At that point I decided to turn the effing thing off and eat dinner.

mnem
Yup... just the sort of deviltry a HobGoblyn would get up to. 

[mnementh]

So I went back over every limit switch & stepper with my meter, looking for a short in something I'd handled; nothing. Put it all back together, and just like that... back to my normal state of abnormal.

Everything tested OK, got my limit switches trimmed out  so that home is right on the tippy-tip point of the LF corner of the bed, and since it was working correctly, I was able to see that the firmware stops at 220mm from home in both axes.    I think I scared it with the ol' FLUKE. 

Now I need to figure out how to set my X-Y offset, and then adjust the outer limits of travel for both axes; something I've never had to do before as all my previous 3DP either came with or I was able to DL preconfigured FW that was pretty much dead-on out of the box as long as I set my limits correctly.

But THAT is a story for another day.

mnem
"You'd better play nice... I have an oscilloscope, and the probes are CO-O-OLD..."

[Monkeh]

The spread jumper on the SKR wants to be on the bottom two pins. I think. It's XOR'd with the register, so depending on how Marlin handles it, behaviour may be less than intuitive. It's not going to forget any settings any more than it's going to erase its own firmware. They are, after all, stored in the same place.

The bed is trying to tell you it's concave. Such is the nature of alu beds mounted with four screws and springs..

[mnementh]

That’s why glass (or Ultrabase) is your friend. If you need to cheat, a little extra-hold hairspray works a treat. 

I’ve made many a large print on $10/dozen Homeowner Hell mirror tiles that way back when with my Tornado...

mnem
 

[Monkeh]

Give me some spring steel and a probe over a piece of glass any day.

[yippy]

Haven't used my printer in over a year and when I finally had something to print the extruder stepper driver decided to die on the melzi board. Bought a ramps 1.4 kit and in the process of converting it. Hopefully setting up the firmware isn't too much of a hassle.

[HobGoblyn]

The spread jumper on the SKR wants to be on the bottom two pins. I think. It's XOR'd with the register, so depending on how Marlin handles it, behaviour may be less than intuitive. It's not going to forget any settings any more than it's going to erase its own firmware. They are, after all, stored in the same place.

The bed is trying to tell you it's concave. Such is the nature of alu beds mounted with four screws and springs..

Thanks, nice to know jumper is in correct position.  Was a bit confused about odd things happening before I moved jumper, but the guy that told me to move it, experienced the same random things before he moved his,

I used mesh levelling using 16 points to level the bed with bed temp at 60 and nozzle temp at 200 with no filament in it, the same temps I’m printing at, hence I expected it to compensate. I will retry the mesh levelling in a while and see what happens.

[xrunner]

I used mesh levelling using 16 points to level the bed with bed temp at 60 and nozzle temp at 200 with no filament in it, the same temps I’m printing at, hence I expected it to compensate. I will retry the mesh levelling in a while and see what happens.

Oh, did you store the data after the mesh leveling was finished? I know this sounds like a stupid question, but I've forgotten to do it when I was in a hurry. Just because it finishes doesn't meant mean the data is stored. You have to scroll down a couple of lines on that same menu to "store" and push the button.

Sounds simple but you might not have done that.

[beanflying]

Blatantly stolen from elsewhere in the WWW. Programming header with POGO pins for programming Sonoff S26 GPO modules  Uber specialized and niche but thats part of what is good about 3D printing. Credit to @CableTie on discord.

[Monkeh]

I used mesh levelling using 16 points to level the bed with bed temp at 60 and nozzle temp at 200 with no filament in it, the same temps I’m printing at, hence I expected it to compensate. I will retry the mesh levelling in a while and see what happens.

If you're doing that using paper or the like you actually want to do it cold, so thermal expansion fills the gap the paper leaves.

[HobGoblyn]

I used mesh levelling using 16 points to level the bed with bed temp at 60 and nozzle temp at 200 with no filament in it, the same temps I’m printing at, hence I expected it to compensate. I will retry the mesh levelling in a while and see what happens.

Oh, did you store the data after the mesh leveling was finished? I know this sounds like a stupid question, but I've forgotten to do it when I was in a hurry. Just because it finishes doesn't meant mean the data is stored. You have to scroll down a couple of lines on that same menu to "store" and push the button.

Sounds simple but you might not have done that.

I did on one of my many attempts over past few days, but I wrongly misunderstood post 869 to mean all I had to do was bed levelling and nothing else.

[mnementh]

Give me some spring steel and a probe over a piece of glass any day.

Yeah; that's coming. 

Never was that impressed with the steel plates tho; don't care for the idea of adding warpy pre-stressed metal to the equation.    But then, I never had that much problem getting parts off.  Take the glass off, set it in the corner, put a new glass on and go about my business.  A few minutes later, parts jump off the glass by themselves. What's wrong with that...?

mnem

[mnementh]

Haven't used my printer in over a year and when I finally had something to print the extruder stepper driver decided to die on the melzi board. Bought a ramps 1.4 kit and in the process of converting it. Hopefully setting up the firmware isn't too much of a hassle.

Good luck.  I've never had to set up a printer FW completely from scratch; I find the prospect daunting to say the least, especially after the headaches I've run into with my little cheapie.

I mean, yeah... if I wanted to just use it the way it came out of the box, there would've been ZERO headaches, I'm sure. But who EVER does that with a 3DP...?

mnem
moo...?

[mnementh]

Blatantly stolen from elsewhere in the WWW. Programming header with POGO pins for programming Sonoff S26 GPO modules  Uber specialized and niche but thats part of what is good about 3D printing. Credit to @CableTie on discord.

Yeah... I looked into the ESPeasy thing back when; wasn't sure I like the idea of turning all my kitchen appliances into a potential botnet with the ability to start fires. 

mnem
*casts a prayer to Ifni for bean's sanity*

[beanflying]

Blatantly stolen from elsewhere in the WWW. Programming header with POGO pins for programming Sonoff S26 GPO modules  Uber specialized and niche but thats part of what is good about 3D printing. Credit to @CableTie on discord.

Yeah... I looked into the ESPeasy thing back when; wasn't sure I like the idea of turning all my kitchen appliances into a potential botnet with the ability to start fires. 

mnem
*casts a prayer to Ifni for bean's sanity*

I have a handful of Sonoff POW's running my fridges and another for starting the Espresso Machine from Bed in the mornings 

[mnementh]

Yeah... I like the idea of a simple timer better... tho it does mean I'd have the pot running in standby keep-warm mode until I get to it if I decide to sleep in.

Still potential to start a fire, I know. But at least I don't have to worry about my coffee-pot joining the robot rebellion. 

mnem

[mnementh]

Okay... so I need to define X and Y bed size to match the build area, and X & Y min & max so moving parts of the printer can't collide with stuffs.

Does X & Y min specify where the actual build area begins on the FL corner, or is that something else...?

mnem
 

[HobGoblyn]

Right. I've done the mesh levelling properly.

Did a quick first layer test (that I sliced), I did it twice, once from Marlin and once from TFT (wanting to put my mind at rest that TFT was doing mesh levelling) 

Both came out exactly the same,  both looked perfect while on the bed



But both of them, when I removed the squares from the bed, the left hand edge on the largest two squares separated



They were printed with bed at 60 and nozzle at 200


I tried printing the level test I printed when I first built my printer (downloaded gcode, no slicing by me) , this printed at  195 and the bed was 45, this printed 100% fine on both Marlin and TFT and when I removed it, zero separation



So I'm happy everything is working, and I just need to learn how to use Cura properly

As a final test, I printed a dog that I didn't have to slice.







Very happy with the result. Still need to calibrate extruder, that's my next job

Many thanks for all your help, I'm sure something else will screw up pretty soon