3D Printer yet?

[Jeroen3]

OctoPrint exists, works great-ish, you can even link it to an Spaghetti Detecting AI.

[HobGoblyn]

What I was looking for was software to run on my pi where I can use the gui on the pi it's self rather than remotely logging in from my PC. 

[HobGoblyn]

After a ton of tests I  worked out that mine is the opposite, a positive Bed Z causes the print head to be further away from the bed, a negative one causes it to be closer.

Yes that's right, my bad, sorry. So BED Z is the Z at which the bed rests after a level corners. Should be (minus) the paper thickness= -0.1mm.

Try this gcode to test your saved mesh. It 1)heats the bed (to 60˚C) and nozzle (to 200˚C), 2)Does a home, 3)turns on ABL and then 4)moves the nozzle from X 40..200 Y 40..200 in a grid 40 mm apart to Z=0.1 so that you can feel the height with a paper. Click to move from a point to the next.

SNIP...

Hmm, tried it, code worked as you described but bared no resemblance to my meshleveling. Some points were OK, but most were either (usually) much too loose (in that the paper doesn't rub at all)  or so tight the paper couldn't   move.

After running this, I rerun my first layer test (without changing anything) and it came out perfectly.

Thanks for your help, I think I will leave this for now, it appears to be working on my test prints, so I will forget about it until something goes wrong

[GeorgeOfTheJungle]

Thanks for your help, I think I will leave this for now, it appears to be working on my test prints, so I will forget about it until something goes wrong

 

'If it ain't broke, don't fix it'

[xrunner]

Thanks for your help, I think I will leave this for now, it appears to be working on my test prints, so I will forget about it until something goes wrong

OK, come back   if    when it breaks again. 

[mnementh]

What I was looking for was software to run on my pi where I can use the gui on the pi it's self rather than remotely logging in from my PC.

Similar need here... I want a local app, connected by bluetooth. I do NOT want everything I own connected to the intardnet. If somebody hacks my printer via bluetooth, I know I only have to walk stalk for a few hundred yards with shotgun in hand...

mnem
 

[GeorgeOfTheJungle]

Similar need here... I want a local app, connected by bluetooth. I do NOT want everything I own connected to the intardnet. If somebody hacks my printer via bluetooth, I know I only have to walk stalk for a few hundred yards with shotgun in hand...

LOL

You can do ~ that with ESP3D: Set it up as an access point and dial down TX power => no interwebs connection and always within shotgun range.

[mnementh]

I guess I just don't understand why everybody hates BT now.    So much wasted BW setting up a web server on a single device and direct RF conflicts with existing WiFi infrastructure, when for the most part BT just WORKS. Not so much with rando implementations of a web server... 

mnem
*total rando*

[GeorgeOfTheJungle]

[...] Similar need here... I want a local app, connected by bluetooth [...]

I guess I just don't understand why everybody hates BT now.    So much wasted BW setting up a web server on a single device and direct RF conflicts with existing WiFi infrastructure, when for the most part BT just WORKS. Not so much with rando implementations of a web server... 

Here's an advantage: you only need the browser, instead of a zillion different apps, one for each device. BTW who hates BT?

direct RF conflicts with existing WiFi infrastructure

Doesn't BT run on the same GHz band as WiFi?

[HobGoblyn]

While I'm sure I'll find out soon enough, if I buy 4 different colours of the same brand, do I only need to tweak settings for one of them?

Thinking along the lines of different chemicals/things being used to make the different colours, hence possibly make each colour slightly different.

[Monkeh]

While I'm sure I'll find out soon enough, if I buy 4 different colours of the same brand, do I only need to tweak settings for one of them?

Usually.

[mnementh]

[...] Similar need here... I want a local app, connected by bluetooth [...]

I guess I just don't understand why everybody hates BT now.    So much wasted BW setting up a web server on a single device and direct RF conflicts with existing WiFi infrastructure, when for the most part BT just WORKS. Not so much with rando implementations of a web server... 

Here's an advantage: you only need one browser, instead of a zillion different apps, one for each device. BTW who hates BT?

direct RF conflicts with existing WiFi infrastructure

Doesn't BT run on the same GHz band as WiFi?

Android & iOS are both *NIX derivatives; tho the assache of App Store validation is a genuine gripe I cannot deny. Windoze... *sigh* But really, by now the whole world has come to grips with the idea of writing apps with all 3 major platforms in mind; just like writing html with all the major browsers and desktop/mobile rendering in mind.

With the advent of fApple releasing sanely-priced iPads a few years ago, all-platform households are an everyday thing. I get that serving ALL platforms is a PITA that most hobbyists are not gonna wanna tackle; they're gonna concentrate on whichever platform is their personal favorite, which often means PC/*NIX, the one that MOST normal people find daunting to work with.  I'm a pretty nerdy sort, and have dabbled in *NIX... and I STILL find it daunting.  Of the remaining platforms, I wouldn't care WHICH the app came on...

BT uses the same band but different frequency allocations within that band. Part of the reason the BT mouse on your laptop works seamlessly even with a WiFi connection at 100x the power in the same 400mm² footprint.

mnem
 

[GeorgeOfTheJungle]

If you set the esp32 in AP mode and leave the WiFi channel empty, it automatically chooses a channel that's free (if there's one).

[HobGoblyn]

Thought I'd try blue. A quick layer test while I make a coffee               

[mnementh]

"I shall call my new masterpiece... 'Ode to all the Blue-Hairs!' "

mnem
 

[xrunner]

Thought I'd try blue. A quick layer test while I make a coffee               

What did you leave for ... a day? 

[Jeroen3]

Look at my top x-axis rod on prusa mk3s. Isn't it a beauty.

I also found the culprit. I guess the lesson is to always lube your rod before use?

[Monkeh]

Yeah, afaik they still don't have you lube the bearings during assembly. The shipping oil is not designed for running with.

[Jeroen3]

My package didn't even include any lube. I did buy it though, since the Y-axis had jammed. Tested some igus bearings (dry linear sliders) but those won't mount right.

I have read that today they do ship them with lube. But it's not in the instructions yet I think.

[Monkeh]

There's really no way to mount an Igus bushing without a block, and even then they're very, very sensitive about alignment.

[GeorgeOfTheJungle]

The worst and most troublesome part of a 3d printer is always the extruder/hot end if you ask me, the X, Y and Z usually work quite well. Even with plastic wheels as in the crealitys.

[GeorgeOfTheJungle]

Thought I'd try blue. A quick layer test while I make a coffee               

"back to the drawing board" ...   

A suggestion: check you printer's Z for repeatabilty. Delete all but the first point in the gcode I sent you, and run it a few times in a row. Maybe the end stop or something is loose?

[Jeroen3]

There's really no way to mount an Igus bushing without a block, and even then they're very, very sensitive about alignment.

I used the full plastic ones, since they were obtainable. I think I need these metal lined ones.
https://www.igus.nl/product/1195
But those are unobtainium.

Meanwhile I did order a new rods and bearing package from misumi, those seem the be the brand. But $$$. However I really liked the silence of the igus....

[mnementh]

Currently very annoyed with what appears to be 2 areas of my new CReality clone Ultrabase that are way out of true; as in 0.15mm or more of wavy from high to low across 30-40mm or so. I need to do some more diag to eliminate possible inconsistencies in the tracks tho.

I don't fancy going back to mirror tiles & hairspray; that's why I spent the bux on this stuff, dangit. But I will if this really is the state of the art right now...   

mnem
 

[HobGoblyn]

Thought I'd try blue. A quick layer test while I make a coffee               

"back to the drawing board" ...   

A suggestion: check you printer's Z for repeatabilty. Delete all but the first point in the gcode I sent you, and run it a few times in a row. Maybe the end stop or something is loose?

What  I've done is reflash firmware (to triple check all saved adjustments have gone).

I then ran CHEP_Ender_3_bed_level.gcode.  It does 9 points.  First time everything was way out.

I ran it again and point 1 was very loose, points 2 - 8 were fine. However when it was point 9 (same pos as point 1) now it was very tight.



I ran it about 10 times in a row, the first 7 all had the same result, the last 3 it was totally fine.  Then I tried about an hour later, first time perfect, 2nd time back to point one being loose and point 9 being tight ..  then after a few tries it fixed it's self and was perfect no matter how many times more I tired that session.

I then ran your test with just the first point  (same as position 1/9 in previous test). It was so tight it ripped the paper.  I then retried about another 10 times (nothing adjusted) and the remaining 9 times it was perfect.

(note, no filament in for any of these tests and no heated bed/nozzle)

So something is going astray somewhere, it could be a dodgy z axis switch, however I moved the z axis up 100mm and back down, as it was coming down, I pressed the z switch numerous times and it ignored it,  making me think it's only being used with the home command.

I'm going to strip it down and completely rebuild it as I noticed another problem (that I checked before when I built it, and it seemed fine)  It doesn't appear 100% square anymore. The very far right two rollers on the x, when the z is at or near the bottom, I can easily turn these (they don't spin, but they are not tight) yet when I move the z axis near the top, they are both tight.  Although I would have thought if this was causing my problems, the two right corners would constantly be out rather than just the bottom left.

Z stop is solid.