Author Topic: 3D Printer yet? (Read 325020 times)

CatalinaWOW · « **Reply #1200 on:** July 21, 2020, 11:08:34 pm »

I've tried various hot air guns and my hot air soldering station with no remarkable success. Best results have come from the soldering station because the limit area of the nozzle and relatively low air volume allows more precise control of the heat at the plastic surface. But those best results weren't good enough to make it worth doing on anything I actually want to build.

The hot air guns included a high power (1 kW) industrial gun, lower power guns designed to shrink Monokote covering for model airplanes, hair dryers and a couple of random guns out of the toolbox. I am a tool junkie and cannot pass a yard sale or swap meet without seeing what needs to be adopted.

mnementh · « **Reply #1201 on:** July 22, 2020, 03:21:21 am »

Tool dwagon is the same way. I just adopted another battery-deficient cordless drill...

I was talking about for nuking threads, tho; not heat-polishing. I still believe that is a just a colossal circle-jerk.

mnem

Brumby · « **Reply #1202 on:** July 22, 2020, 03:32:12 am »

We call them Garage Sales here in Oz .... and, well, I ain't confessin' nuttin!

mnementh · « **Reply #1203 on:** July 22, 2020, 03:47:11 am »

No, this one was a curb-score. As was the lawnmower and gas BBQ now cluttering up the garage...

I figured worst-case, I'll use the drill to make a e-bike.

mnem

HobGoblyn · « **Reply #1204 on:** July 22, 2020, 08:02:50 am »

Strange lines

The first (long) line is extra filament rather than a groove (last picture).

The second line is a groove, I first tried printing this in PETG, that came away from the bed and I reprinted it in PLA. As you can see from the pics, both had this groove in exactly the same place (the face the groove appears on was facing the bed)

Have also included a pic showing the position on the bed it was printed on.

This is the item I was trying to print https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3459269

GeorgeOfTheJungle · « **Reply #1205 on:** July 22, 2020, 09:19:25 am »

There's nothing weird in the .stl, must be the slicer:

HobGoblyn · « **Reply #1206 on:** July 22, 2020, 11:27:01 am »

Weird, it looks OK to me (not that I really know how to use it properly yet)

Attached is a pic after slicing of the bottom layer (looking at it from underneath, hence the finished face)

Also attached the Cura .3mf file (if anyone that has Cura wants to take a look), need to change file name from .doc to .3mf

GeorgeOfTheJungle · « **Reply #1207 on:** July 22, 2020, 01:18:47 pm »

There's nothing weird in the slicer, must be something else :-)

There's a bit of underextrusion here:

Maybe try printing a bit slower? (or dial down the acceleration, because the problems are near the ends/extremes of the spaguettis).

HobGoblyn · « **Reply #1208 on:** July 22, 2020, 06:04:12 pm »

I just printed a flat square over the same area I printed the lcd mount, it printed flawlessly

mnementh · « **Reply #1209 on:** July 22, 2020, 06:53:02 pm »

Maybe something to do with your Cura coasting settings?

Personally, I think you just wanted a excuse to "innocently" post dickballs in thread:

mnem

GeorgeOfTheJungle · « **Reply #1210 on:** July 23, 2020, 11:36:38 am »

Ender 3 on sale 157 euros today (use code VIP9):

https://www.creality3dshop.eu/products/creality-ender-3-3d-printer-economic-ender-diy-kits-with-resume-printing-function-v-slot-prusa-i3-220x220x250mm

mnementh · « **Reply #1211 on:** July 23, 2020, 12:31:06 pm »

Now "€166,00 Sale"... Oh, wait I see. They're actually letting you use that discount code on top of the sale price. Hey... better in your pocket than theirs.

That's halfway to a roll of filament.

mnem
Think I'm gonna hold out for my CR6.

GeorgeOfTheJungle · « **Reply #1212 on:** July 23, 2020, 12:45:18 pm »

I don't like the Ender 3, all my crealitys are CR10s.

mnementh · « **Reply #1213 on:** July 23, 2020, 01:04:53 pm »

Well after seeing the misery HobGoblyn suffered with his, not sure I do either.

But at least ordering from there you KNOW you're not getting some 3rd-party franchisee manufactured unit.

mnem

HobGoblyn · « **Reply #1214 on:** July 23, 2020, 06:29:37 pm »

Been playing around with my TFT35 E3 V3 touch screen and my CR10 V2

Using original Creality board, connecting EXP1 on the Creality to EXP 3 on the TFT works fine in Marlin mode.

But the original Creality screen had both EXP1 and EXP2 connected, I'm trying to work out what EXP2 was used for (can't seem to find much info on the CR10 V2 motherboard).

HobGoblyn · « **Reply #1215 on:** July 23, 2020, 06:32:27 pm »

Quote from: mnementh on July 23, 2020, 01:04:53 pm

Well after seeing the misery HobGoblyn suffered with his, not sure I do either. But at least ordering from there you KNOW you're not getting some 3rd-party franchisee manufactured unit.

mnem

In all fairness, most people seem more than happy with them. Mine was from a company called Comgrow who also sell their own make stuff, so it's possible it was made under license. Mind you, CR10 came from same company

mnementh · « **Reply #1216 on:** July 23, 2020, 10:28:22 pm »

Well, no... my complaint with that arrangement is that you the buyer don't know what you're getting; it's bad enough when you buy directly from CReality. They ARE a China-direct manufacturer/vendor after all; so of course there's "larger variations than most Westerners would like" in their QC as well. Just that when you add "franchisee" to the mix, it becomes a colossal fustercluck of finger-pointing and blame-shifting; or at least this was the case with the horror stories I was reading back when I bought my Tevo Tornado.

That was in fact a major point that led me to purchase the Tornado; I figured if you couldn't even be sure of getting "CReality Quality" when you buy a CR-10, why the hell shouldn't I get the clone I can buy for half the price with my BG affiliate points?

mnem

HobGoblyn · « **Reply #1217 on:** July 24, 2020, 06:32:00 pm »

I love how Creality has wired the CR10 V2 up.

Was looking at changing my main board and wondered what the X+ and Z+ was for.

I traced them to the pins in the plug and then to the connectors on the CR10 V2

The positive of both X+ and Z+ are the same, likewise the grounds of them are the same.

That being the case, the sensible thing to do would be wire up the 24pin socket so that Z+ goes to the BLTouch and X+ to the filament runnout.

But that would be too easy, instead they send the signal from the Z+ to the BLTouch along with the positive and ground from the Y+
Likewise they send the signal; from the Y+ to the filament runout along with the positive and ground from the X+

Meaning if either one are unplugged from the main board, neither work (excuse my not to scale drawings)

GeorgeOfTheJungle · « **Reply #1218 on:** July 24, 2020, 09:18:22 pm »

If that's a full size SDCard, next thing you must buy is a Toshiba FlashAir, and install this: https://github.com/luc-github/Flashair-FM

mnementh · « **Reply #1219 on:** July 26, 2020, 06:14:33 pm »

From the Too Much Free Time Dept:

mnem

ANTALIFE · « **Reply #1220 on:** July 27, 2020, 01:00:17 am »

Here is some useful info for Prusa i3 MK3S + MMU2S users, or others who do multi-material prints on a single hotend system
https://www.antalife.com/2020/07/project-just-how-multi-material-is.html

After doing heaps of PLA/PETG test on my MMU2S my conclusion is that the "Multi-Material Upgrade" should really be called the "Multi-Colour Upgrade", as printing with different materials requires crazy amounts of purging (>2500mm³) between swaps
Hence, if you want true multi-material capability then you need a printer with at least two separate hotends, otherwise if you are printing in single material then the MMU2S is perfect

HobGoblyn · « **Reply #1221 on:** July 27, 2020, 06:34:15 am »

https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/releases/tag/2.0.6

mnementh · « **Reply #1222 on:** July 27, 2020, 02:10:48 pm »

Oh great... new & improved Misery2.x.x firmware for end-users to debug.

mnem

HobGoblyn · « **Reply #1223 on:** July 27, 2020, 08:59:18 pm »

I have to say, when I spent 50 odd days with my ender 3 pro, I was getting a little disillusioned, thinking I was on a road to nowhere.

Since returning it and getting the CR10 v2, it has never needed levelling past the first time. Even when I tilted it, placed it on it's side etc to trace the wiring, when I put it back upright and did a level test, nothing needed adjusting it was all perfectly in place.

I read facebook posts of people having problem after problem, others say they've never had problems, I''m convinced there's simply some badly made printers out there.

I've had my first failure on my CR10 v2 today, a print taking up all 300mm of the bed, the corners lifted. Bed was only 50 degrees, I suspect the heat doesn't get to the edges so hopefully increasing bed temp will fix it.

mnementh · « **Reply #1224 on:** July 28, 2020, 03:20:44 am »

Quote from: HobGoblyn on July 27, 2020, 08:59:18 pm

I have to say, when I spent 50 odd days with my ender 3 pro, I was getting a little disillusioned, thinking I was on a road to nowhere.

Since returning it and getting the CR10 v2, it has never needed levelling past the first time. Even when I tilted it, placed it on it's side etc to trace the wiring, when I put it back upright and did a level test, nothing needed adjusting it was all perfectly in place.

I read facebook posts of people having problem after problem, others say they've never had problems, I''m convinced there's simply some badly made printers out there.

I've had my first failure on my CR10 v2 today, a print taking up all 300mm of the bed, the corners lifted. Bed was only 50 degrees, I suspect the heat doesn't get to the edges so hopefully increasing bed temp will fix it.

Had similar problems with the Tornado; waiting an extra 15 minutes after bed came up to temp for it to equalize across the entire surface (confirmed it took this long with infra-thermometer) and added ~2-3mm brim around the print fixed it. You can also set it so the brim stops just before the print; just set it one line's worth. With the squish, this makes it hair thin so it still holds, but peels off the part easier.

Don't preheat your hotend; let the gcode handle that.

I also have no compunctions about using hairspray if a large print fails and tries to fuck with my head; IMO, if it works, it's not a crutch.

mnem
*toddles off to ded*


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Author Topic: 3D Printer yet? (Read 325020 times)

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