3D Printer yet?

[HobGoblyn]

Been using original firmware since getting CR10 v2, today I decided to update.

All went well except for one thing.

My Esteps were set to the default 93 after updating.  I did the usual test, marked 120mm  and extruded 100mm.  That left 46mm rather than 20mm.

OK, so I changed the Esteps to 125.7, stored it, powered down and up the printer to check it still has the new Esteps, it has.

Repeated the test, it's still extruding exactly the same amount as when the Esteps was set at 93, still leaving me with exactly 46mm.

Weird.

When I got the printer, I calibrated Esteps using the printer (as couldn't get it to connect to octoprint).  The Esteps I ended up with were 97.89 and when I rechecked it was perfect, leaving exactly 20mm spare.

After upgrading firmware to V2, I can now connect to octoprint  (I've also found another cable so that could be it).  I've just retried tests using Octoprint,  I reset it to 93, fed trough 100 mm and it left 25mm which works out to 97.89.

I enter my new figure via Octoprint and save it, I then rerun the test via Octoprint and sure enough spot on, exactly 20mm left.


So I go to the printer, repeat the test on there telling it to move axis extruder 100mm, this time it leaves 60mm.

Am I missing something here, it appears that sending Gcode feeds correctly but using the move axis doesn't, yet this is how I calibrated Esteps when I originally got the printer?

[JackJones]

I'd guess the manual move is extruding faster than the one sent via USB. That doesn't give the filament as much time to melt so it's harder to push through, thus giving more under extrusion. That's why all the calibration guides tell you to extrude slowly, it's closer to real printing conditions than a faster manual move.

I looked at the configuration_adv.h for Marlin, and for me the MANUAL_FEEDRATE parameter is set at 120.

I'm guessing that's 120mm/min, when the usual calibration command G1 E100 F100 is 100mm/m. Not sure if that's enough of a difference to explain it, but something to look out for.

[MarkF]

If you look in version 1.1.9.1, the MANUAL_FEEDRATE is 60.
In version 2.0.6, they doubled the rate to 120.

A recompile back to 60 might be worth a try??

[mnementh]

Oh FFS... CReality hasn't even shipped half the KS CR6SE orders, and now they announce they're offering it on "other platforms". 

Oh... and all of us who ordered "extras"... that they claimed we had to wait because of those extra bits... well our "extras" will be shipped later.  Who knows how much later.  So no reason they couldn't have shipped our 3DP with all the other units.   

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1001939425/creality-cr-6-se-leveling-free-diy-3d-printer-kit/posts/2935061

mnem

I feel for you

Thanks.   

Yeah... it's a good thing I didn't sell off my Diggro to help fund this thing... I'd be chewing the carpets by the time it gets to me. 

I'm seeing people in the KS update posting that they ordered retail off AliEx a couple days ago, and DHL has given them tracking which is now showing picked up and progress through the system already, not just "Shipping ticket created" or WTFEever.

mnem
 

[HobGoblyn]

Last couple of days I’ve had some of my best quality prints ever, none needed supports.

The one I need to print now, needs supports. Simple support, a rectangle coming from build plate and about 3cm high.

But (as is usual with me) something weird is going on.

It prints the skirt fine, then it goes to print the first layer for the support and seems  to get into an infinite first layer loop, going around and around the support, adding more filament until it obviously can’t cope with all the squish on the one layer and it goes all stringy, I can pull off this stringy lump and it happily keeps going. Never starts the actual print.

Using cura, I’ve tried default settings as well as my own. Tried different support types, tried tree supports all doing the same thing, getting stuck in some sort of loop.

Any ideas please?  Skirts are fine, actual prints without supports are fine, first time around with supports is fine, but it just keeps on going around and around, never stopping the first support layer.

[mnementh]

You may have a broken body in the STL that is causing the gcode to go haywire. What do you see when you preview the gcode in Cura? Is it just this model, or will other models slice successfully? What happens if you turn off skirt/brim?

mnem
 

[xrunner]

But (as is usual with me) something weird is going on.

Naw it happens to all of us.

It prints the skirt fine, then it goes to print the first layer for the support and seems  to get into an infinite first layer loop, going around and around the support, adding more filament until it obviously can’t cope with all the squish on the one layer and it goes all stringy, I can pull off this stringy lump and it happily keeps going. Never starts the actual print.

That's a new on me tho. Can't suggest anything myself but please post the solution if found.

[CatalinaWOW]

I have had something like this happen when there is a hidden construction aid in the original model.  It can do weird things to the .STL export.  Mine was in modeling a screw thread and the artifact was a helix used in construction of the thread.

[HobGoblyn]

Hmm, well it seems like I'm going mad 

Was obviously way way too tired to try and slice the STL at 11pm last night.

Maybe, just maybe if I didn't have most of the support options set to 0 (eg support density),   it might have printed properly.

I watched the Cura preview vid print the first layer and sure enough, it was going over the same line time and time again.  I then realised my support settings were weirdly screwed, I altered them to sensible settings, also slowed initial speed down to 15 mm/s, tried the preview again (using tree supports which is what I initially wanted) and this time I could see what it was meant to do.

Attached two first layer pics, one before I changed the support settings, one after, quite a bit of difference  

[HobGoblyn]

Oh FFS... CReality hasn't even shipped half the KS CR6SE orders, and now they announce they're offering it on "other platforms". 

Oh... and all of us who ordered "extras"... that they claimed we had to wait because of those extra bits... well our "extras" will be shipped later.  Who knows how much later.  So no reason they couldn't have shipped our 3DP with all the other units.   

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1001939425/creality-cr-6-se-leveling-free-diy-3d-printer-kit/posts/2935061

mnem

I feel for you

Thanks.   

Yeah... it's a good thing I didn't sell off my Diggro to help fund this thing... I'd be chewing the carpets by the time it gets to me. 

I'm seeing people in the KS update posting that they ordered retail off AliEx a couple days ago, and DHL has given them tracking which is now showing picked up and progress through the system already, not just "Shipping ticket created" or WTFEever.

mnem
 

You may find being last isn’t a bad thing on this occasion

[Monkeh]

Said fault appears to be that they try and catch fire. Smoke coming from the power switch, welded closed switches, smoke pouring out of the electronics enclosure..

No comment.

[xrunner]

Updated to Marlin 2.0.6.1 this morning. No issues at all.

It knew it would be beat into submission anyway so it gave no push-back. 

[Zucca]

[...]
I know this sounds like a lot of assache, but most of the assache is in the reading; once you get used to doing it, takes no time at all.

mnem
 

I got it out thanks mnem!

Now next problem, I am upgrading the extrusion mechanism with a red alu one:
[ Specified attachment is not available ]

here is my problem...
[ Specified attachment is not available ]

Why there is no brass thread in the red one?

Moreover I have also to upgrade the pipe to teflon capricorn... FYI

EDIT: I can't get the image to work tonight, sorry I give up. Stupid simple machine.

[Zucca]

Bad news,

I dropped the Extruder motor in the process, now if I go to prepare and try to move the extruder manually it does nothing.
Interesting if I try to move the x axes the extruder motor start to buzz

[Zucca]

I dropped the Extruder motor in the process, now if I go to prepare and try to move the extruder manually it does nothing.
Interesting if I try to move the x axes the extruder motor start to buzz

Most printers will disable the stepper for the filament unless the hot end is up to temperature. I know mine does this. Was your heated up to temp when you tried this?

Solved the Extruder movement.

BTW is it normal that when the extruder works I see a little jerk in the x axis.
Basically when the extruder stepper works the x one buzz and viceversa.

[Zucca]

Why there is no brass thread in the red one?

A possible explanation:

[xrunner]

Man Zucca - that design sucks! That black plastic insert is gonna move back and forth every time the thing retracts and extrudes. I'd try to glue it in if they did away with the threaded brass. Cheap bastards.

 

[Zucca]

No longer needed:

UPGRADE: For the Creality upgraded version, small pneumatic connector is no longer needed. Recommended to cut the teflon tube before install it. Perfect replacement for Creality 3D Printers Ender 3 / Ender 3 Pro / Ender 5 / CR-10 / CR-10S.

I bought it from creality itself....
The new ball bearing has more friction than the old one. 

Cheap ass bastards.

EDIT:

[mnementh]

Man Zucca - that design sucks! That black plastic insert is gonna move back and forth every time the thing retracts and extrudes. I'd try to glue it in if they did away with the threaded brass. Cheap bastards.

 

No, that's why the blue clippity; to lock the thing. However, on my pneu fitting, I found I had to use 2 to lock it because they were thin. Fortunately, I ordered extras when I got my CR10 hotend/trolley plate.

Personally, I still prefer the old method of loosening the pneu fitting, push the tube in all the way til it bottoms out, tighten the pneu fitting to jam it tight.

Yet another reason to avoid the red ones and seek out the silver CReality-branded one.

@ HobGoblyn/Monkeh : Yeah, actually I was aware; I just came in here to post about that development. Been a little busy moving.

I plan to replace with a decent name-brand switch; I have oodles in my parts drawer. Somewhere in a box. Somewhere in my storage unit.

mnem
...somewhere in the Great White North. 

[Zucca]

Yet another reason to avoid the red ones and seek out the silver CReality-branded one.

This irritates me even more because I did my homework, noticed how many cheap ass clone are on the www and decided to go straight to mothership CReality 

Anyway thanks Dwagon and xrun,
Only time will tell how bad the new design without the pneu fitting is, I keep you posted.

In the next episode:
I installed the new capricorn pipe, but it is about 11cm longer than the original one, should I cut it?
I ask because I am confused by:

Recommended to cut the teflon tube before install it.

Does it mean cut just the end so it will fit properly with a clean cut at the end OR to cut to size placing the nozzle to max X and max Y?

Thanks guys...

PS: Next shows in this circus, Silent Board and Glass Bed upgrade

[xrunner]

No, that's why the blue clippity; to lock the thing. However, on my pneu fitting, I found I had to use 2 to lock it because they were thin. Fortunately, I ordered extras when I got my CR10 hotend/trolley plate.

Uh ... do you not think I know what the blue "clippity" is for? 

I'm talking about the black part it's clipped to. The whole assembly is going to move in and out I would bet money on it.

[Zucca]

xrun, I bet also one of my balls it will move. The real question is how much and if it will degrade the 3D printing process.

[xrunner]

xrun, I bet also one of my balls it will move. The real question is how much and if it will degrade the 3D printing process.

Try it and observe. I just think a plastic part holding with just clips (the BLACK part) isn't going to stand up over thousands of retracts. It isn't going to be as good as a metal threaded insert. I just won't be. However, if and when it starts to loosen, you can try gluing it in (the BLACK clip).

It is what it is, unless you return it, you will have to improve it yourself.

[Zucca]

Try it and observe.
It is what it is, unless you return it, you will have to improve it yourself.

You bet my friend, so far a very DIY experience this ender 5. Maybe the pneu fit was just overkill, I let you know in one year or before.

[mnementh]

xrun, I bet also one of my balls it will move. The real question is how much and if it will degrade the 3D printing process.

Try it and observe. I just think a plastic part holding with just clips (the BLACK part) isn't going to stand up over thousands of retracts. It isn't going to be as good as a metal threaded insert. I just won't be. However, if and when it starts to loosen, you can try gluing it in (the BLACK clip).

It is what it is, unless you return it, you will have to improve it yourself.

I cannae deny any of whatcher sayin'; Sorry, I didn't mean to sound condescending. 

I'm not sure if I mentioned that stupid integrated collet clip in my diatribe aboot the red ones, and no time to search for it right now, but I DID see that when I bought mine and deliberately avoided it like the plague.

I'm not sure if the intent was to make it cheaper, or if it was to eliminate the common gripe aboot the pneu fitting locking onto the tubing and not letting go when you do the "loosen the pneu fitting, push the tube in all the way til it bottoms out, tighten the pneu fitting to jam it tight" thang. Pretty sure the plastic clip won't do that like the sharp metal fingers in the pneu fitting do.

My point with the blue clippity is that if you put enough of them in there or print one the right thickness to jam the collet clip up tight, it should force the fingers to dig into the tubing adequately to lock it down against normal extrusion head pressure. Not saying I'd expect it to hold up to increased head pressure from a clogged nozzle tho... that would be foolish. How well it holds up, I think, will be directly related to the quality of molding and the material used... I'd probably be willing to give it the benefit of the doubt if it were made of nylon and had some teeth in the inner surface of those fingers.

My current 3DP misery is just trying to get my shipping address updated. I've tried 2 different contact points with KS/PledgeBox (useless as tits on a boar ) and 2 others at CReality... one no response, and one the same exact response I got on my "optical sensor upgrade" eMail, so now I know THAT "confirmation" response was an auto-reply as well.

But I STILL have not successfully changed my shipping address with these lunatics.

Z, I can't believe you just said that "It's a few inches too long..." 

I'd say if it is only that much, don't trim it unless you have problems where it binds up somewhere or have extrusion issues you can't point to any other cause.

That way if you have problems with fittings jamming up, or the end against the nozzle getting old and hard and causing clogs, etc... then you have a little extra to trim on that Cap tubing and don't wind up needing to replace it because it's too short.

mnem
*toddles off to move my ass*