3D Printer yet?

[Mr.B]

Is this an appropriate thread to throw out SLA 3D Printer questions, or should I start a new thread – SLA 3D Printer yet?

I have had about 3 years experience with FDM now, followed this thread since its inception, now wanting to print models with much more precision – although FDM will still have a place in my workshop.

I am very close to pulling the trigger on an ANYCUBIC Photon Mono X 3D Printer 4K 8.9 Inch LCD UV Resin Printer 192*120*250mm.

Thanks in advance.

[Zucca]

Is this an appropriate thread to throw out SLA 3D Printer questions, or should I start a new thread – SLA 3D Printer yet?

I have had about 3 years experience with FDM now, followed this thread since its inception, now wanting to print models with much more precision – although FDM will still have a place in my workshop.

I am very close to pulling the trigger on an ANYCUBIC Photon Mono X 3D Printer 4K 8.9 Inch LCD UV Resin Printer 192*120*250mm.

Thanks in advance.

Don't know I am not a SLA expert. Maybe a new thread with "SLA" in the title could attract the SLA experts in the evvblog.

[mnementh]

   

I see you've never stuck your hand awkwardly in the cutlery basket of a dishwasher and had a fork tine stuck deep under a fingernail.   I will never, ever store my tools pointy bits up or towards myself; my coordination means it only becomes a miniature impalement device.   The scalpels in particular make my old wounds ache.

I got tired of stabbing myself rummaging around in a drawer; this is my preferred solution. Besides, a little bloodletting is a good thing; lets you know you're alive.

mnem
A machine isn't truly yours until it has tasted your blood.

[SilverSolder]

   

I see you've never stuck your hand awkwardly in the cutlery basket of a dishwasher and had a fork tine stuck deep under a fingernail.   I will never, ever store my tools pointy bits up or towards myself; my coordination means it only becomes a miniature impalement device.   The scalpels in particular make my old wounds ache.

I got tired of stabbing myself rummaging around in a drawer; this is my preferred solution. Besides, a little bloodletting is a good thing; lets you know you're alive.

mnem
A machine isn't truly yours until it has tasted your blood.

If you try hard enough, you can hurt yourself with any storage solution! 

Taking up as little space as possible is a worthy goal on a busy desktop.

[Mr. Scram]

Is this an appropriate thread to throw out SLA 3D Printer questions, or should I start a new thread – SLA 3D Printer yet?

I have had about 3 years experience with FDM now, followed this thread since its inception, now wanting to print models with much more precision – although FDM will still have a place in my workshop.

I am very close to pulling the trigger on an ANYCUBIC Photon Mono X 3D Printer 4K 8.9 Inch LCD UV Resin Printer 192*120*250mm.

Thanks in advance.

I'm eyeing the Elegoo Saturn, but would like a suitably sized washing and curing station to be available. It's still a dicky process with one, but somewhat less so. If you ask me FDM and SLA printers functionally barely overlap. Both are rather different tools with different applications, strengths and weaknesses.

[Mr.B]

...If you ask me FDM and SLA printers functionally barely overlap. Both are rather different tools with different applications, strengths and weaknesses.

Agreed.
I will start a new thread to solicit more detail and not pollute this one.

[Zucca]

FUUU I couldn't resist

New X motor, here

New Y motor, here

and .... installed!

doubled the steps for X and Y!

I also adjusted the reference voltage. An the silent creality board I found 1V for the small steppers (X-Z), and 1.2 V for the bigger one (Ex, Y).
With the new X stepper I set 1.4V, it's running a little more louder than the stock, warm but not hot to touch. I'm unsure If I leave it there, for now I call it done.
The new Y it's a beast, 1,6A so I cranked the Vref to 2,3V. It's running cold with no noise...

The ebay connectors pissed me off:



I had to switch direction in the Marlin.

BTW I installed rails Hiwin on the X, Y. Before I tensioned the belt they were moving smooth like a hot knife in butter, after still a joy but the friction increased.
Would a belt tensioner like this improve the situation here?
Do you guys use them?

[mnementh]

You could have swapped the pin pairs around pretty easily. Is it friction or the normal cogging of the stepper motor?

mnem
 

[Zucca]

You could have swapped the pin pairs around pretty easily

But the flat cable would be become a cross cable and not so flat anymore. I tripled check everything and assumed the connectors color will stay the same...
Anyway not a big deal, it was just a single bit change in the FW.

Is it friction or the normal cogging of the stepper motor?

I think it is friction, see with the Hiwin the XY cars are sitting about 2-3 mm higher than before so this increase the belt tension a bit and make everything a little more stiky.

[mnementh]

No... I meant to swap all 4 at once; in other words, reverse the order on one end of the cable so the connector flips over. This is usually the cause of this kind of issue. I usually prefer to fix the hardware so it matches the default config; that way when upgrading FW, I don't have a hundred little changes to remember/figure out. I have a horrible memory.


You mean there's excessive offset in the anchor points for the belts? If so, then you need to design/print new anchors that bring the anchor points inline/parallel with the transit of the belt off the roller.



mnem
 

[Zucca]

No... I meant to swap all 4 at once; in other words, reverse the order on one end of the cable so the connector flips over. This is usually the cause of this kind of issue. I usually prefer to fix the hardware so it matches the default config; that way when upgrading FW, I don't have a hundred little changes to remember/figure out. I have a horrible memory.

Not so easy, the pins are asymmetric. It would not work. Regarding FW, I keep my config.h in the upgrade process, so no worries.

You mean there's excessive offset in the anchor points for the belts? If so, then you need to design/print new anchors that bring the anchor points inline/parallel with the transit of the belt off the roller.

mnem
 

Bingo mnem, spot on. Exactly what I was thinking. These could help, I hope.

[mnementh]

No... I meant to swap all 4 at once; in other words, reverse the order on one end of the cable so the connector flips over. This is usually the cause of this kind of issue. I usually prefer to fix the hardware so it matches the default config; that way when upgrading FW, I don't have a hundred little changes to remember/figure out. I have a horrible memory.

Not so easy, the pins are asymmetric. It would not work. Regarding FW, I keep my config.h in the upgrade process, so no worries.

You mean there's excessive offset in the anchor points for the belts? If so, then you need to design/print new anchors that bring the anchor points inline/parallel with the transit of the belt off the roller.

mnem
 

Bingo mnem, spot on. Exactly what I was thinking. These could help, I hope.

Looks like the E5 is a box-frame Cartesian, not CoreXY... what did they do; use a stepper with 2 shafts on the Y-axis? Pretty much all of the printers with v-slot/roller actuation have built-in belt parallax issues. Because of the necessary gear ratio for direct-drive off of cheap NEMA-17 steppers, you can't use a cog big enough to bring the belt transit clear of the extrusion; and adding an idler cog to make it run flat is pretty much at odds with the fundamental intent of this type of design: low production cost prioritized over absolute precision.

Fixing that is easy. You disassemble all 4 pins from the housing; fix the little retainer clips if you crushed them getting the pins out. Then, hold the flat of the cable in one hand and twist the individual wire/pin one at a time so that the retaining clip faces 180° from original orientation. Now, reassemble with connector flipped over. ONLY do one end; you are fixing the fact that one end of the cable was flipped during assembly.

I get that you prefer to just fix it in the FW; I just wanted to make sure that you and those playing along at home know it is easy to fix either in hardware or software.

mnem
 

[mnementh]

It finally arrived; only 4 months late.     I'm afraid to open the fucking box.

mnem
No, still no word on when all my add-on accessories, which were supposedly the reason this printer was held back another 2 months, will ever ship.
Shockingly, after months and months of reading people asking where their add-ons were and when they would ship, my package came with them all inside. 

[xrunner]

Oh great - another horror story to follow! 

[Brumby]

Tell me when he's about to open the box so I can get the popcorn ready.

[mnementh]

While it wasn't the the "zipless fuck" experience of my first hands on with the Diggro, I did have it up & printing in less than a hour, including time spent fondling the included tools and extra bits. 

I completed the assembly without issue and without once having to crack the manual or look at a vid. Worst problems were: Wrong IEC cable for North America (and consequently, PSU set to 230V), Defective 4mm Allen wrench, X-Axis loose as a goose on the beam, extruder jumper unplugged.

Shockingly, after months and months of reading people asking where their add-ons were and when they would ship, my package came with them all inside. 

Today has been a long day; I'm up to my armpits in building one of those Arrow sheetmetal garden shed kits.



CR-6SE is printing a little dragon/dinosaur gewgaw off the card. I'll post more pics of it and the tools and my extras sometime soon.

mnem
 

[mnementh]

Heh. Slinki-T-Rex is actually quite appealing. Just flopping him back & forth & the clikkity sound he makes is viscerally pleasing.

EDIT : And now he is no longer mine. The boi saw him and just HAD to have him... and now I have orders requests from all the fam for one of their own. 

mnem
 

[Zucca]

FUUUUUUUUU

with the raspi:

Code: [Select]

2020-10-04 12:28:56,671 - octoprint.util.comm - ERROR - Unexpected error while reading from serial port
Traceback (most recent call last):
  File "/home/pi/oprint/local/lib/python2.7/site-packages/octoprint/util/comm.py", line 2916, in _readline
    ret = self._serial.readline()
  File "/home/pi/oprint/local/lib/python2.7/site-packages/octoprint/util/comm.py", line 5069, in readline
    c = self.read(1)
  File "/home/pi/oprint/local/lib/python2.7/site-packages/serial/serialposix.py", line 501, in read
    'device reports readiness to read but returned no data '
SerialException: device reports readiness to read but returned no data (device disconnected or multiple access on port?)
with FreeBSD

Code: [Select]

2020-11-07 13:06:19,975 - octoprint.util.comm - ERROR - Unexpected error while reading from serial port
Traceback (most recent call last):
  File "/usr/home/octoprint/OctoPrint/venv/lib/python3.7/site-packages/serial/serialposix.py", line 501, in read
    'device reports readiness to read but returned no data '
serial.serialutil.SerialException: device reports readiness to read but returned no data (device disconnected or multiple access on port?)

During handling of the above exception, another exception occurred:

Traceback (most recent call last):
  File "/usr/home/octoprint/OctoPrint/venv/lib/python3.7/site-packages/octoprint/util/comm.py", line 2916, in _readline
    ret = self._serial.readline()
  File "/usr/home/octoprint/OctoPrint/venv/lib/python3.7/site-packages/octoprint/util/comm.py", line 5069, in readline
    c = self.read(1)
  File "/usr/home/octoprint/OctoPrint/venv/lib/python3.7/site-packages/serial/serialposix.py", line 509, in read
    raise SerialException('read failed: {}'.format(e))
serial.serialutil.SerialException: read failed: device reports readiness to read but returned no data (device disconnected or multiple access on port?)
FUUUU Silent Melzi shit board....

in the market for a new board now.

EDIT: wasted about 10m of PLA now starting over, I also went down with the serial baud rate 57600. Let's see if helps.

[mnementh]

Not understanding the problem. Is the USB-serial toast, or are you trying to flash and it has no bootloader?

There is usually another serial port you can use to flash a bootloader via FTDI or USBasp. I've read that on some boards this is also the only reliable serial connection available.

Reading aboot these kinds of headaches over and over and over again is why I still SneakerNet my files and use the BabyCam for monitoring... it just works.

mnem
"There's enough misery to go around without grabbing for more." ~me

[Zucca]

Sorry, I should have wrote:

"Gentlemen I am loosing serial connection with the printer sporadically, so the printer stops moving and everything melts around the nozzles if I am printing. Because I am printing through FreeBSD using the serial USB connection"

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32980090169.html

any 32 bit suggestions?

[mnementh]

   

CR-6SE Add-Ons & included Tool Kit.

I bought a spare build plate cuz only $10, complete hotend, a couple of the  auto-leveling load cells as they were only $7 and incorporate the hotend mount, and an extruder which to my surprise included the stepper for only US$5.20.    Essentially, everything that handles filament.

I wanted to get the interface board that the load cell connects to, but it wasn't available. I may work on figuring out how to adapt the load cell to a generic build; that idea was kicking around the back of my mind as well way back when I ordered.

The extra bit of PTFE Bowden tube, 10 0.40mm nozzles, and the optical sensor were all freebies. I thought the optical sensor was supposed to be for the X-axis; but it's identical to the one already on the Z-axis, and they did not include any bit to break the lightbeam so... 

The tool kit came packed in fitted foam-rubber bits; those immediately went in the "stow it with the carton in the shed" baggie. With the exception of the defective (a die-cut mishap that deformed the end so it wouldn't fit in the bolt) 4mm Allen wrench, I used the included tools to assemble and test.

The 6mm socket wrench and real 6mm x 8mm open-end wrench, while still cheapies, are a welcome improvement over the usual stamped-sheetmetal utter garbunge that usually comes with these printer kits.

The little baggie came with 2 spare nozzles and 2 each of the plastic Bowden clips and locks; I added the 10pcs of freebie nozzles after taking that pic.

The spatula... it's just.... naah. While heavy enough to use for prying a part up, the edges are pretty thick with a heavy burr. I don't want it anywhere near my coated buildplate. Prolly perfectly okay if I were to flip it over on the plain glass side, tho.

The little nippy flush cutters are totes adorbs; they lock closed and were obviously chosen to fit in the drawer with the spatula.

No, your eyes aren't playing tricks on you; that really is a acupuncture needle they included as a nozzle cleaner. It measures right at 0.40mm, but when I ran it through one of the spare nozzles it required a fair bit of force, and the end result was a visibly larger diameter orifice than an untouched nozzle. 

The drawer itself has two 12mm neodymium magnets incorporated; they pull the drawer shut with a satisfying clunk and hold it closed pretty well. I'm still undecided whether or not it's more assache than it's worth due to tools randomly sticking to them. 

mnem
 

[Zucca]

that really is a acupuncture needle

The more you dig in the more this 3DP circus looks like sadomaso activities. I just got bitten by the wobbling wobbling wobbling wobbling ender 5 single Z bed. After 2 hours printing I was hearing rat rat rat rat rat rat rat rat rat rat rat rat rat rat rat rat rat rat: it was the nozzle hitting the infill.

Today I learned that the wobbling bed is a positive feedback system. The more it jetks the more it will jerk down the road.

with this scrap printing we are a 22 meter wasted PLA and about 8 hours printing just today. 

[mnementh]

LOL... my first big project on the Tornado failed 3 times at aboot 14-16 hours of a 22 hour print due to corners lifting up on a really broad piece.

Unfortunately, this IS part of the territory; these machines are hobby grade, not additive manufacturing. You can either pay megabucks for commercial-grade to have near-zero failed prints, or you can allow budget for wasted filament.   

I'd probably have paused the print and tried to snug up the rollers as soon as I heard the noise, m'self. Of course, highly unlikely there wouldn't be some layer shift afterwards, but hey... at least try. 

As far as your serial connectivity problem... I would definitely scour the documentation for your Melzi board and see if you can locate that alternate serial connection for your OctoPrint. Especially if it is already 32-bit.

mnem
All sacrifices upon the altar of IoT... 

[Zucca]

As far as your serial connectivity problem... I would definitely scour the documentation for your Melzi board and see if you can locate that alternate serial connection for your OctoPrint. Especially if it is already 32-bit.

I'll tell you, I lowered the baudrate. Right now 14 hours into this print, no issue so far. 2 hours left. Will see.
My spider senses are telling me that the USB repair I did don't like high baudrate.

32bit? I have an Atmega 1284P on the freaking board. It's 1990 8 bit Atari game console.



Let's buy a time machine and go back:

1) never have bought the second Zaxis motor (reused the old X motor)
2) never have bought the silent crap board, went straight to 32 bit
3) never have bought the red alu extruder without the pneu fitting

How much more money I have to sacrifice on the IoT altar before I get it right?

[Zucca]

and done.... 





as mnem said, "My balls still ache".

PS: Yes the corner are lifted up, cardboard box ghetto style?