3D Printer yet?

[Zucca]

I like the BMG direct-drive extruder; it uses standard parts... except the cloners have produced a nice CNC version for 1/2 the price. And it's not very 'fang-friendly due to tension lever placement.



https://www.aliexpress.com/wholesale?catId=0&initiative_id=SB_20201011072619&SearchText=Titan+direct

Then of course there's the clone Titan direct-drive extruder, which can be had for ~$50 plus you figure out the mounting. I've toyed with that one for a while myself, but it is only single-side drive on the filament and... *head explodes*

mnem

Well now I want to go direct drive hot end... I was waiting until Xmas to pull the trigger, now it is about time in my crazy life.
The links above are expired and I need some advise I can't find what I need on aliex...

Here are my choices so far:

1) Trianglelab Matrix Extruder 86.60 USD



I like it. very good review here.

2) Trianglelab titan extruder full kit Titan Aero Volcano 67.95 USD



this is less sexy for me...

3) trianglelab AL-BMG-MQ Extruder Mosquito HOTEND 56.90 USD



but no hotend included... bah...

I also want to buy a cooler fang thing, like this one but I donno know if it is better to print something.... I would prefer metal but ... meeehhhh... I could survive without.
My point is since I buy a new hotend I would like to have something which can play well with a good coolind fan system... and here I get lost in the www...

Can you help me to waste my money properly?

Thanks

[mnementh]

LOL... the PetsFang works well, you just have to align it so it just clears the work so it mostly doesn't blow on the nozzle. Also, a hotend with a silicone sock that covers most of the nozzle really is a necessity, not an option; but I think that's true with any 'fang. 

When I say close, I'm talking like clearing the work by 1mm or so. The drawback to that is that if you have a print-fail that curls up, it'll do this. OTOH, that kind of fail is much less frequent with the 'fang because it will freeze the extrusion in midair... so then the choice becomes a matter of tuning.

I'm rocking the stock parts cooler right now on the Diggro; I never got around to putting the 'fang back on after I figured out that the SS nozzle was what was fucking with my head.

I liked that BMG-Mosquito clone I linked to a few pages back; I prefer the BMG extruder to the Titan in general, especially since I started using the CR-6, which stock extruder is similar geometry only pinion-idler instead of dual-pinion drive.

Definitely don't care for the Hemera clone; if you're going to clone a thing and make it weigh a ton... least you can do is get rid of the fucking modded stepper motor.   

Non-standard stepper motor is a big non-starter for me. 

My best educated guess would be that the first thing to figure out is what you're looking to get out of DD... more precision/cleaner prints vs higher flow/faster prints vs working with more demanding filaments...?

mnem
 

[Zucca]

Just to say thanks to you dwagon, you never let me down. Now I have to process what you wrote.

[mnementh]

Here's attempt #2. Changes were:

Rotate 180° to present work better towards cooling fan.

Enable Bridging mode.

Flip so opening of whistle allows support on end of piston.

This prevents it from moving and falling off (Those loose bits in the above FAIL photo), giving the bridging filaments a solid base to be "thrown" from. In case you didn't know; the first cable or lattice crossing over any span to start the build is called "throwing the bridge" for this very reason. It is always the most hazardous part of the build.

Meanwhile, I simply cannot get the vertical one to complete at ALL. It keeps printing voids in the walls and breaking in half.

EDIT:

Ahhh... I think I've figured it out. The profile for the CR6-SE has wall thickness at 1.2mm or 3 lines thick. After carefully following the preview in Cura, I can see several layers where this results in only one or two lines rendered in the GCODE because the walls of the model are only 2mm thick. After trying several different wall thickness settings and not being able to fix it, I blew up the model to 150% so the walls were thicker; this makes a 2 hour print now 5 hours... we'll see how it turns out.

mnem

[raptor1956]

Picked up an Anycubic Mono X resin printer as well as the Wash and Cure 2.0 and some resin and accessories.  Made the test print (cube) using the black Anycubic resin but when I went to use the Wash and Cure 2.0 I had a problem.  Put the print into the basket and the basket into the tub with a couple liters of IPA 99.9%, set the unit to 2 minute wash, pressed the button and ... nothing.  The display was on and counting down but the impeller didn't spin.  So I manually agitated the print then dried it then set the unit up for cure with the little turn-table and reflector. 

Set the cure to 2 minutes, pressed the button, the UV LED's came on but the turn-table did not spin.  I then manually rotated 90 degrees four time at 30 seconds each and the print appears just fine.

So I unplug the unit, remove the four top screws and peak inside and discover that the motor is not connected -- there is no cable and the cable isn't lying at the bottom of the box -- it was never installed.  Interestingly, I did receive a QC card indicating the unit had been tested and passed the tests!

I'd order from Amazon and have started the return process with replacement of the defective unit, should take a couple days to get so lets hope this one works.

I should add that my interest is in making engineering/prototype scales models and have little interest in the action figures that seem to dominate the 3D printer world for application -- I just don't get the whole idea of 40 year old guys playing with D&D figures.


Brian

[Mr.B]

My Anycubic Mono X resin printer and Wash and Cure machine arrived a couple of weeks ago.
I have not had a chance to even get them out of the boxes yet.
Been too busy building a new workbench and well lit fume cupboard for them.
I will post further in the *SLA 3D Printer yet?* thread when I get closer to testing.
Hope mine works...

[mnementh]

Now I have "successful prints" in 100% & 150% scale. "Successful" in that they printed as they should and I was able to separate the supports, and the slides work...

But neither one whistles worth a shit, and for sure they don't slide-whistle. 

After several attempts at filing a sharp edge on the lip, I was able to get them to whistle with the plunger all the way down if I was careful and got the embouchure and breathing just right. Move it even slightly and nada.

I have to wonder if the designer ever actually tried the damn thing... 

mnem
*Toddling off to ded*

[CatalinaWOW]

Did a web search to find the whistle you are printing and found the comment by the designer "I never designed whistles before".  The design seems somewhat off of the classics that have been around for centuries, made from willow sticks.  The "notch" seems both steep and deep.  While looking for that design I found several that seem more likely to work, though those also have comments on tuning to make them work better.

[mnementh]

Yeah... Thingiverse was sucking out loud yesterday morning. I couldn't get search to work at all; zero results on any query. That was the first "likely suspect" I found on MyMiniFactory.

mnem

[mnementh]

From the JUST BECAUSE YOU ASKED Dept...



Wife (Looking at filament loaded on my Diggro): "I see you have my favorite color blue... why don't you make me something?"

"Okay... look on Thingiverse.com and find something you like."

"Thingy-verse... with a 'y'...?"

"No... t-h-i-n-g-i-v-e-r-s-e-dot-com..."

*we continue our Monopoly game while she looks on her smartPwn; a few minutes later she shows me a TARDIS model*

"Didn't I just give you one of those that levitates...?"

"That's on my desk at school. This is perfect for that color; I want a ornament for the tree."

"Of course my love... I'll get it started right away."

I scale and slice the model between turns; it is printing before the game is over. The next morning, I come down to see it finished; I'm not exactly best pleased. I do cleanup and solder-melt a hanging eye into it anyways, figuring I can try again with TARDIS2.0.

"I'm sorry baby... the POLICE BOX lettering didn't turn out that well due to having to scale it down to ornament size."

"Oh honey... it's perfect." *smoooooch*
Sometimes, it's just the doing what she asked that's the important part.

mnem

[CatalinaWOW]

Yeah, I have problems with thingiverse too.  I often get results I like better with an image search (search engine of your choice) for 3D models of xxxx.   Then browse the images for things that look promising.  Which is how I found what you used.

[mnementh]

     https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:225714

     https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1183522

Currently printing these two overnight. 

mnem
*knocks self unconscious with a leadscrew mallet*

[mnementh]

     https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:225714

This one actually works, but it took a half-hour of sanding to get the slider to fit and to get a decent sharp edge on the ramp. 



Tone is fair decent, as per demo vid posted with the Thing.

mnem
 

[mnementh]

   

Boring mundane household object print number 138: Feets for the borked-up legs on my bedframe.

Non-default Settings: 0.28mm LH, no adhesion aids, bottom layer 5mm with Zig-Zag pattern for strength against the thin edge of the tube, 1.2mm wall thickness, Infill manually set to 1mm spacing and grid pattern for rigid sidewalls.

mnem
*yawwnnnn*

[mnementh]

Just to see if it'll work. 

mnem


               Yup.

[mnementh]

Currently printing this to go under my 54645A; idea is to make the space occupied by my new UTG962E arb a little more user-friendly. Well, printing the first half of it. Even at 0.28 LH and 20% infill, still 11 hours worth.

At least that's what Cura sez; It's been printing for 2 hours and only at 8%. 

mnem
*toddling off to ded*

[mnementh]

      

Left side finished. Looking good, fits the 54645A like it was made for it. Which it was. Now printing right side.

mnem
*wanders off in search of caffeine*

[Canis Dirus Leidy]

Don't throw away your VHS tapes! You can always make a filament for a 3D printer out of it:

[mnementh]

Now I'm waiting for Part II and Part III; where he makes filament out of the ABS shells and the Nylon spindles & rollers.

Poor bastard... I guess it's true what they say aboot people being desperate for everything over there.  What's his address? I'll mail him a roll of real filament. 

mnem
 

[mnementh]

      Left side finished. Looking good, fits the 54645A like it was made for it. Which it was. Now printing right side.

mnem
*wanders off in search of caffeine*

7.5 hours; 40% done. Fortunately, printing a wedge does progress exponentially.

mnem
*goes back to hoeing out his drawers in anticipation of the new cart setup*

[Simon]

why don't you stop posting like this is your personal blog? No one gives a toss what you are printing, sod off!

[tautech]

why don't you stop posting like this is your personal blog? No one gives a toss what you are printing, sod off!

Bit harsh. 
Acting on a complaint are you ?

Others may well be interested in what 3d printers can do as I am.

[Canis Dirus Leidy]

Now I'm waiting for Part II and Part III; where he makes filament out of the ABS shells and the Nylon spindles & rollers.

(grinning by all 42 teeth)


P.S. Well, there is a rational grain here, if you look at the prices of conductive filaments.  And then the idea of making a filament from an old magnetic tape does not seem so barbaric anymore.

[mnementh]

why don't you stop posting like this is your personal blog? No one gives a toss what you are printing, sod off!

What the actual fuck...?

Seriously? Who gives half a damn if I post that...? At least I put something here from time to time. Sure, we can let the thread dry up and blow away; just that much less content for Dave.

Because you know, there's so much aboot 3DP on here already...

Aside from that, like most of my posts I include actual details of what I'm doing, the settings I use, and why. This is the sort of thing people into 3DP do care aboot.

mnem
*back out into hell*

[mnementh]

Now I'm waiting for Part II and Part III; where he makes filament out of the ABS shells and the Nylon spindles & rollers.

(grinning by all 42 teeth)   https://youtu.be/XRwdie6QDPY

P.S. Well, there is a rational grain here, if you look at the prices of conductive filaments.  And then the idea of making a filament from an old magnetic tape does not seem so barbaric anymore.

Oklay... interesting from a novelty standpoint, yeah; I'm not sure this guy intends to actually try and make it something viable. The process control required to make that highly resisitive filament something refined and predictable enough value to actually be useful is probably beyond this guy's amateur lab; and then there's the simple assache of acquiring sufficient raw materials to produce any real volume. His testing shows resistance of ~1MΩ/inch; it is pretty much useless for anything at voltages low enough to use it safely. And then there's the fact of being a resistor composed of thermoplastic... it's like making a potholder out of butter. 

As for the filament from face masks project... I'm not in the least bit convinced the end product is safe to expose other people to; just too many vectors for contamination in his process.  I'm literally cringing here just looking at that.

mnem