3D Printer yet?

[mnementh]

Never had a lick of trouble with it; just silicone grease and zinc oxide for Ifni's sake.

Even the cheap stuff is rated for 205-300°C, depending on the formula of the silicone grease. Even when I was having trouble with my Diggro because the new CR-10 hotend had a 12V heater and it was glowing red-hot, it still slipped right out afterwards. The compound was a bit dried-out & gummy is all. 

I have years of positive experience with it; I'm going to go with empirical evidence. 

mnem
 

[Zucca]

I will probably do it, for reference here the Matrix manual quote:

 

[mnementh]

Yeah, I use it there too. Cheap insurance, sez I.

mnem
*punt*

[mnementh]

On the Bench today: CR-6SE LED Mods

Just a quick pic dump; no time for my usual tech teardown. Time to get productive again. 

         

First, the Hotend COB LED. Driven at 50mA, approx 0.4Watts. These little COB LEDs used here and on the Diggro were all scavenged from a smashed driving light bulb found in a parking lot. Parts is parts, sez I. 


               

Overhead LED Bar is driven at ~700mA; approx 8 watts. 1Ω/1W metal film ballast so adjusting current is easy by measuring voltage drop across resistor. I know... lazy, lazy...  Wire kept in place inside channels with 11.1mm wide strips of blister-pack plastic.

   

I love it when a plan comes together. Excellent flood lighting, just like with my Diggro. Contact area with the extrusion is thin, but plenty to keep everything barely warm to the touch, even after running all afternoon in testing.

Winner, winner pork chop dinner!!! 

(CONTINUED)

[mnementh]

The money shot; all that work comes down to this. Being able to see exactly what the printer is doing: PRICELESS. 

mnem

[Zucca]

Nice LED mod! I do not feel the need to do it, I have my Ikea goose neck light on the side if I need to... one day maybe.

Anyway today I investigated my new cooling fan, the Sunon MF50152VX-1L02C-A99



According to the datasheet this fan is designed to operate in this voltage range 20.4V - 26.4V.

So I did a couple of measurement


(the fan is lighten up to make the rpm reading easier)

by controlling the fan with

Code: [Select]

M106 P0 S[pwm]
and indeed:



so I edited the Marlin like this:

Code: [Select]

/**
 * PWM Fan Scaling
 *
 * Define the min/max speeds for PWM fans (as set with M106).
 *
 * With these options the M106 0-255 value range is scaled to a subset
 * to ensure that the fan has enough power to spin, or to run lower
 * current fans with higher current. (e.g., 5V/12V fans with 12V/24V)
 * Value 0 always turns off the fan.
 *
 * Define one or both of these to override the default 0-255 range.
 */
#define FAN_MIN_PWM 216 // Zuk, new fan starting point
#define FAN_MAX_PWM 251 // Zuk, new fan max point
and then in the Slicer SW I changed the Min% from 35% to 1% to have the max range available:



this last step is not important, but meh it costs nothing.

Of course do not forget FAN_KICKSTART_TIME:

Code: [Select]

// When first starting the main fan, run it at full speed for the
// given number of milliseconds.  This gets the fan spinning reliably
// before setting a PWM value. (Does not work with software PWM for fan on Sanguinololu)
#define FAN_KICKSTART_TIME 100 // Zuk new Sunon Blower
So far the theory part I let you know if everythink works as expected.

Yes it could be the PWM frequency it not the right one for that fan, but meh... I do not want to make my like more complicated with FAST_PWM_FAN in Marlin ... BTW do we really need 255 different speeds for the cooling fan?

[mnementh]

It's binary steps, buddy. 8 bits resolution=0-255.

When you set up your printer, you figure out the minimum cooling RPM (enough to do any good for the filament chosen) and maximum RPM (slow enough that it doesn't blow the filament out of place in bridging mode and create flossy fuzz everywhere) for your fan and your layer cooling duct by trial & error. This means your actual usable range can be very small depending on the combination of the two. 8 bits of resolution is actually not much, considering that.

Thanks on the LED mod! Quite pleased with m'seff on it, especially since I've had a chance to use it.

I will suggest that even if you don't get all anal with one on the hotend like I do, that you really do want to install some cheap aluminum-backed COB strips in your printer chassis. The floodlighting effect is just so nice when you're working, and they are sooo cheap. Like 2/$8 on the strips, and you can even get a cheap CC/CV buck converter for like $12 to make it dead-easy. The only reason I bothered to build my little regulator/ballast PCB is because A) I needed those resistors & perfboard for other projects I have in mind and 2) I have literally a couple dozen of those 2A buck regulators to use up, and they fit so nicely in that space.

mnem
 

[Zucca]

it doesn't blow the filament out of place in bridging mode and create flossy fuzz everywhere)

like this? 



retraction tower calibration from 1mm to 6mm retraction distance. It does not change anything.

Oh well it could be humidity in my PLA filament.

[Zucca]

My cooler part fan sporadically does not work, it has nothing to do with the new fan installed.
I saw the problem also before.
When I am in the error state, the fan does not spin,
M106 P0 S255 respond with ok but the fan does not spin.

After I reset the board (5V power off and back on again), I am able to get the fan spinning again.

I do not know how to debug it, it is not a classic hardware issue.

Or better said, could it be that the µC is damaged and just that pin does not want to behave?

I am lost.

EDIT: I found the root cause, it is a communication idle timeout after M81



after that my part cooler fan is gone and I have to reset the board. 

[mnementh]

dood... I'm not gonna be any help on that one. I wanted to repurpose the LED lighting channel in my CR-6SE as a thermally-controlled hotend fan; that seemed to me like a much more sensible priority than stoopit bling lighting. 

So I installed and tried to figure out PlatformIO, as the CR6-SE uses Marlin 2.x 32-bit... and my fucking brain melted.

Good luck... you're our trailblazer on this one.

mnem
 

[mnementh]

In other news... AD is fuckerizing their product users again. Guess it just hurts them so much that everybody actually expects them to keep their promise that it would be free for non-profit use. 

So from now on, I'll be making multiple copies of every damned thing I design, in every conceivable permutation, just to be sure I can go back to it later when I want to.
Oh, what... does that waste precious server space, AD...? Then maybe you should make it less of a dicksore for me to archive my shit locally, dickwads.

Or maybe, just maybe, they should actually make a sanely-priced tier for personal use... instead of demanding commercial-product prices, period, end of discussion.

mnem
Adapt or die, motherfuckers.

[Kean]

EDIT: I found the root cause, it is a communication idle timeout after M81

https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M081.html

Turn off the high-voltage power supply. If the board is not powered from another source, this may also shut down the electronics.

[mnementh]

   

Boring Mundane Everyday Print #148: Fridge Door Thing

Our fridge has a huge butter thing in the door, but not big enough for a big margarine tub; so we usually store our sliced cheese there. Problem is that if we close the cover on it, the cheese grows fur prematurely because butter thing doing its job and keeping it warmer in there; if we leave the cover up our cheese falls out every time we open the door. So, making a couple of end-pieces to turn leftover clothes-hanger tubes from 189 Meter stand project into an openwork substitute.

It took several iterations of trial & error printing just the first 2mm of the shape to get the relationships right between the hinge pegs and the edges of the recess in the door; then I used the mirror function in Frustion360 to make a flipped copy of the final sketch. Then just doing the same extrusion, pulls & fillets on both pieces at the same time to make the completed shapes. 

Currently printing in BLACK PLA, 215°C/60°C, 0.28mm LH, infill manually set at 2mm grid pattern, 1.2mm walls, 0.84mm top/bottom w/concentric pattern, no adhesion, no supports. I'm bumping up print speed 10 ticks to 60mm/Sec; this and 0.28mm LH are why the bump to 215°C. Estimate is 3.75 hours both pieces with both printers running.

UPDATE: Actual print time 3 hours 29 min. 

mnem
 

[Bassman59]

A friend bought a little album stand to show what record is being played, and I figured, I can do that, too! So a few minutes with F360 and here ya go.

[Bassman59]

And with a record installed!

[Bassman59]

Buy this record.

[Bassman59]

Updated version, with an arch for rear support. To be printed tonight ...

[beanflying]

In other news... AD is fuckerizing their product users again. Guess it just hurts them so much that everybody actually expects them to keep their promise that it would be free for non-profit use. 

So from now on, I'll be making multiple copies of every damned thing I design, in every conceivable permutation, just to be sure I can go back to it later when I want to.
Oh, what... does that waste precious server space, AD...? Then maybe you should make it less of a dicksore for me to archive my shit locally, dickwads.

Or maybe, just maybe, they should actually make a sanely-priced tier for personal use... instead of demanding commercial-product prices, period, end of discussion.

mnem
Adapt or die, motherfuckers.

There you go fixed your sooking for the next three years on 'this topic' at least  https://www.eevblog.com/forum/eda/fusion-360-mechanical-design-tips-tweaks-and-discussion-(not-eagle)/msg3447212/#msg3447212

[mnementh]

Duly noted, inappropriate comments left as usual. 

In other news, I did update my cheesy-arse fridge-thing post above. Fit right the first time.    

mnem
*toddles off to ded*

[Zucca]

Turn off the high-voltage power supply. If the board is not powered from another source, this may also shut down the electronics.

Correct, but my board is powered from another source.

[beanflying]

This is sort of off topic or maybe even deserving of being its own topic in the Mech Eng section but here it is  

Making Vacuum Formed Plugs/Molds with a 3D printer. Plenty of other interesting videos on the same channel too  The entire fuselage of the Windex is also 3D printed.

[Zucca]

Upgrade to Matrix hotend done, I had just to design a custom fan cooler holder and a custom 3mm alu plate to hold everything on the X car



What a royal PITA, files here

[mnementh]

Yeeeowwwch. Looks like a lot of moving mass. 

mnem
 

[Zucca]

Yeeeowwwch. Looks like a lot of moving mass. 

I prefer to sacrifice speed and have better results. 




(I hope)

[mnementh]

Yeeeowwwch. Looks like a lot of moving mass. 

I prefer to sacrifice speed and have better results.     (I hope)

LOL... well, you've got the nice slickery railzz everywhere... but yeah, I get it. I've been experimenting with small increases in print speed at larger LH; my last few projects have been a fair amount of material so it does make a difference.

What seems to be the biggest deal appearance-wise does not seem to be speed, but rather thinking aboot the shape and choosing the outer wall start point rather than leaving it randomized. I've gotten to where I spend a lot more time looking at the preview layer by layer; it does not always seem to wind up where you think it should. 

I know... pretty elementary stuff to some... honestly, I'm usually much more concerned with functional over attractive, so just hadn't given it any thought.

mnem