What did you buy today? Post your latest purchase!

[capt bullshot]

I got myself a laser "pointer": A 270W 915+980 nm diode laser for a price that was probably below scrap metal value

Me wants one too    Already got the required power supply 

[Microcheap]

Another "lunchbox". A VC3165 frequency counter to stack on top of my VC8145.

[jogri]

Here are some more pictures/comments about my laser:

-it doesn't have a driver board, they simply use two pairs of massive copper(?) bars, the eigth individual diode bars (per wavelength) are wired in series. Switching is done via a transistor (blue arrow) on the positive side, other than this, a cap against ripple and a hall effect sensor to measure the current there's nothing directly connected to the input terminals

-it claims to be able to tolerate 250 mA ripple current (well, even the ripple current could power a nice laser), it looks like they just connected the input terminals to a big capacitor (the blue thing zip-tied to a diode bar)

-it can provide you three different wavelengths: one >1 mW 635 nm alignment laser (orange arrow) and two 915 and 980 nm diode arrays with 135 W each (i guess, it just states 270 W total). The entire setup you see on the pictures is duplicated on the bottom level, probably the array for the other wavelength

-each one of the four blocks contains two diode arrays, the beams get combined, pass a semi-transparent mirror with a power meter behind it (top left corner), pass a tilted lens(top middle, the large brass plate), go through a few dichroics and get combined with the other wavelength beam. They probably use another dichroic to get the 635 nm beam into the main beam

-nothing quite says "serious laser" like a watercooled(!!) fibre... Yes, those two blue hoses are there to cool the optical fibre. Why do i get the feeling that such a fibre assembly will probably cost more than my entire home lab?

-i still don't know the exact specs of this beasts as manuals are just non-existent. Judging from the model number (Optotools 270-30) and other lasers from the same company it seems like it's a 270 W, 30 mm mrad laser

-they "might" have overdone the thermal mass: Even though it is just 40x40x20 cm small it weighs 40kg... Well, at least it won't get toppled over accidentally

-i found this link to a evilbay offer for a similar laser from the same company: It just has one level so you can see the individual components more clearly:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/OPTOTOOLS-nlight-high-power-diode-laser-OTF-200-20-IP-DSO/174302584669

[Kjelt]

Me wants one too    Already got the required power supply 

Ah that looks familiar, I also have one of those.
Is this one fully working as per front so 0-45V and 0-70A on 400V three phase power?
I ask since mine is one of many coming from a dutch company and seeing the 12NC dutch company sticker on the front I suspect the same.
Delta modified them in a special way so it does not act as the original design.
Mine is more like 0-60V and 0-45A strange behaviour in a fixed power configuration.
Via via I have gotten the reverse modification instructions so if interested contact me. I have still to do the modifications myself 

[capt bullshot]

Me wants one too    Already got the required power supply 

Ah that looks familiar, I also have one of those.
Is this one fully working as per front so 0-45V and 0-70A on 400V three phase power?
I ask since mine is one of many coming from a dutch company and seeing the 12NC dutch company sticker on the front I suspect the same.
Delta modified them in a special way so it does not act as the original design.
Mine is more like 0-60V and 0-45A strange behaviour in a fixed power configuration.
Via via I have gotten the reverse modification instructions so if interested contact me. I have still to do the modifications myself 

Yes, its of the same kind. Voltage can be brought up to 90V, short circuit current limit is somewhat above 70A, and above 50V it acts strangely. As you said like limited power. From what I've observed, it isn't fixed max. power, but rather appears to be limited by the max. duty cycle of the converter.

Some time ago, I had a talk to the German reseller at a trade fair, he said these were "lamp supplies", used for high pressure xenon arc lamps. These
run off a constant current at some 20...30V, but need up to 70...80V for a short period after triggering for a quick and reliable start. Triggering them requires some 10kV, obviously this trigger circuit isn't integrated.

Interestingly, this thing also works off 230V single phase, but then this behaviour kicks in at lower levels of current and voltage.
I've got some manuals with schematics, in case you're interested:  http://wunderkis.de/delta-elektronika/doc/ and some teardown photos:  http://wunderkis.de/delta-elektronika/gallery/

I'd be interested in your reverse mod instructions, just for curiosity. PM'ed you for that.

[Kjelt]

Yes it is for some laserpowersource from ASML.
I will email you the modifications see pm.
BTW it is a 3kW PSU but on single phase it is limited to about half.

[ChristofferB]

Technically a freebie but I'm still pretty stoked!

Found this Systron Donner 3101 Gaussmeter in the dumpster behind my university. Sought out the guy I (correctly) assumed had tossed it and got the Hall effect probe for it!

Look at that hideous 1970's mustard thing! How can you NOT love it?

Unfortunately the probe has a different connector than the unit, and the unit is heavily modified (more veroboard in it than pcb!) so getting it running, well... we'll see.

Worst case: groovy enclosure for something else!

[Nominal Animal]

Three pairs of KFL08 8mm flanged ball bearings from fleabay.  Two pairs were very nice, but the third (in the same package) pair was dirtier and sloppier than ★ ★★★★★★ ★★★.

[ChristofferB]

My Nuclear Enterprises RM5/1 ratemeter just arrived!

Seriously guys, if you like geiger counters, pick one up! They're basically given away on ebay! I got mine for like 25$.

They work with both geiger-müller tubes and scintillation probes, and have a voltage range from 300-1400V.

[maginnovision]

Agilent U1253B from giosif. A single alkaline battery lasted 15.8 hours so not nearly as bad as the 8 they said even if that was probably for the rechargeables. On high brightness, DCV, with about 6 hours using the bluetooth IR accessory. The rechargeable that was in it lasted significantly less time but my new 9V(8.4V) lithium rechargeable haven't arrived yet(the ones I have are all in my smoke alarms). Also for the last 20 minutes or so of battery life the readings were not very stable.

[Ed.Kloonk]

My Nuclear Enterprises RM5/1 ratemeter just arrived!

Seriously guys, if you like geiger counters, pick one up! They're basically given away on ebay! I got mine for like 25$.

They work with both geiger-müller tubes and scintillation probes, and have a voltage range from 300-1400V.

Quick question. Would a device like that register the average consumer smoke sensor?

[ChristofferB]

Well it depends on the detector probe you put on it, but I'd say definitely, yes.

This guy is using it with a scintillation probe, and he gets a reading well above background:

https://youtu.be/tim1jmywOf8?t=203

[cdev]

My Nuclear Enterprises RM5/1 ratemeter just arrived!

Seriously guys, if you like geiger counters, pick one up! They're basically given away on ebay! I got mine for like 25$.

They work with both geiger-müller tubes and scintillation probes, and have a voltage range from 300-1400V.

Ive wanted to get a geiger counter or similar for a long time. That one looks pretty old. Youre saying you can upgrade it with other kinds of tubes, to make it more useful?  I'd like one that was able to check out food. My friend got one after the Fukushima disaster and she said that some of the food appeared to be mildly radioactive. (also puddles after rainstorms) This was in California in I think it was 2011.  I dont know if it is still a problem. She has a pretty good one. It cost several hundred dollars. It can also pick up beta and even alpha radiation.

I live in a havily populated area that has several aging nuclear power plants. The idea of a nuclear accident at any of them is terrifying. I dont trust TPTB to tell people if something like that happened. What would be a good all around device for detecting nuclear radiation thats not too expensive. I'd be willing to build it myself - would a meter like this be a good starting point? (more flexible than the ones that come as kits?)

[_Wim_]

I'd be willing to build it myself - would a meter like this be a good starting point? (more flexible than the ones that come as kits?)

This is a fun project to do (counting AND identification of the radiation source)
https://www.theremino.com/en/blog/gamma-spectrometry

They have a simple geiger counter as well:
https://www.theremino.com/en/technical/schematics#geigeradapterdiy

The complete collection of radiation sensors:
https://www.theremino.com/en/hardware/inputs/radioactivity-sensors

[ChristofferB]

would a meter like this be a good starting point? (more flexible than the ones that come as kits?)

Keep in mind I've only had the thing for like 5 days, but this meter is litterally just an adjustable high voltage psu, an AC coupled amp and a frequency counter; it is as good as the probe you put on it (wierd connector needs to be swapped, quick mod). It's not as old as it looks, PCB is date coded '92! I suspect it's one of those 'if it works don't mess with it' things where they've been built like that from 1975 and 20 years onwards!

I like it because I now have one meter that is compatible with all the probes I own.

That said, in your case I might like a meter that shows dose - µSv/h, µGy/h or mR/h. The little DIY kits are nice enough, and cheapo ebay geiger counters will be very similar in construction,
but no matter what counter you get, if it just has one of those ex-soviet STS-5 or SBM-20 tubes, it's gonna be a pretty insensitive instrument.


Oh and WIM is right, gamma spec is really awesome, I found a guy (a bit crudely) modding the RM/5 for this job (using theremino software)! I'd so try this if I didn't have a gamma spectrometer already!
 

[maginnovision]

Agilent U1253B from giosif. A single alkaline battery lasted 15.8 hours so not nearly as bad as the 8 they said even if that was probably for the rechargeables. On high brightness, DCV, with about 6 hours using the bluetooth IR accessory. The rechargeable that was in it lasted significantly less time but my new 9V(8.4V) lithium rechargeable haven't arrived yet(the ones I have are all in my smoke alarms). Also for the last 20 minutes or so of battery life the readings were not very stable.

Nobody else may care but just to follow up... Using some EBL 600mAh 6F22 rechargeable lithium "9V" batteries I got 18.1 hours battery life even with using bluetooth attachment for about half the run time. In typical lithium fashion there was no period of instability near the end it simply died.

[rsjsouza]

Agilent U1253B from giosif. A single alkaline battery lasted 15.8 hours so not nearly as bad as the 8 they said even if that was probably for the rechargeables. On high brightness, DCV, with about 6 hours using the bluetooth IR accessory. The rechargeable that was in it lasted significantly less time but my new 9V(8.4V) lithium rechargeable haven't arrived yet(the ones I have are all in my smoke alarms). Also for the last 20 minutes or so of battery life the readings were not very stable.

Nobody else may care but just to follow up... Using some EBL 600mAh 6F22 rechargeable lithium "9V" batteries I got 18.1 hours battery life even with using bluetooth attachment for about half the run time. In typical lithium fashion there was no period of instability near the end it simply died.

Interesting data. Does the U1253B have selection for primary or secondary batteries? Its newer OLED cousin (U1273A) has this on the setup menu, which helps with "sudden death".

[maginnovision]

Agilent U1253B from giosif. A single alkaline battery lasted 15.8 hours so not nearly as bad as the 8 they said even if that was probably for the rechargeables. On high brightness, DCV, with about 6 hours using the bluetooth IR accessory. The rechargeable that was in it lasted significantly less time but my new 9V(8.4V) lithium rechargeable haven't arrived yet(the ones I have are all in my smoke alarms). Also for the last 20 minutes or so of battery life the readings were not very stable.

Nobody else may care but just to follow up... Using some EBL 600mAh 6F22 rechargeable lithium "9V" batteries I got 18.1 hours battery life even with using bluetooth attachment for about half the run time. In typical lithium fashion there was no period of instability near the end it simply died.

Interesting data. Does the U1253B have selection for primary or secondary batteries? Its newer OLED cousin (U1273A) has this on the setup menu, which helps with "sudden death".

It's just like the 1252B where you can select 7.2V or 8.4V but not primary/secondary. It was kind of odd but when selecting 8.4V(which the battery reads when full) the battery indicator never reads full, with 7.2V it went low but unlike alkalines it didn't flash the x on the battery(or it did and I didn't see it which the alkaline did for an hour or so.) So for some reason the battery doesn't really work well with the indicator but 7.2V is what I'd recommend.

[IDEngineer]

While it's not (strictly speaking) a piece of T&M equipment, I did just buy this.

I am not ashamed to admit that I've already done a bit of teardown on it. And yes, I'm enjoying learning its user interface!

[rsjsouza]

Agilent U1253B from giosif. A single alkaline battery lasted 15.8 hours so not nearly as bad as the 8 they said even if that was probably for the rechargeables. On high brightness, DCV, with about 6 hours using the bluetooth IR accessory. The rechargeable that was in it lasted significantly less time but my new 9V(8.4V) lithium rechargeable haven't arrived yet(the ones I have are all in my smoke alarms). Also for the last 20 minutes or so of battery life the readings were not very stable.

Nobody else may care but just to follow up... Using some EBL 600mAh 6F22 rechargeable lithium "9V" batteries I got 18.1 hours battery life even with using bluetooth attachment for about half the run time. In typical lithium fashion there was no period of instability near the end it simply died.

Interesting data. Does the U1253B have selection for primary or secondary batteries? Its newer OLED cousin (U1273A) has this on the setup menu, which helps with "sudden death".

It's just like the 1252B where you can select 7.2V or 8.4V but not primary/secondary. It was kind of odd but when selecting 8.4V(which the battery reads when full) the battery indicator never reads full, with 7.2V it went low but unlike alkalines it didn't flash the x on the battery(or it did and I didn't see it which the alkaline did for an hour or so.) So for some reason the battery doesn't really work well with the indicator but 7.2V is what I'd recommend.

nevermind and sorry. I forgot the U125x series uses a rechargeable as standard. The U127x series uses regular cells (AA or AAA, I don't recall now).

[maginnovision]

Yea, same as the U128x I think, which use AA. I almost lost mine due to leaking alkalines so switched to lithium primary there. Luckily the battery life on it is very good so not much point in switching to rechargeable.

[Zucca]

Mean Well 24V/65W SMPS, Schurter power entry module, JST connectors to replace the external power adapter of my HP Z3805A. 

I had to post it here, very well done!

[deadlylover]

Got a Victron IP67 17A lead acid battery charger. Against my better judgement I got the 17A model instead of just going for the smaller/cheaper 7A version, it was only 30 dollars more oh well, at least it will last a little longer...in theory. 5 Year warranty is quite promising too. 

First impressions are quite good, feels solid and the bluetooth app has a lot of settings. (absorption/float voltage adjust was the main thing I wanted so I can properly charge my various car batteries)
They mis-crimped one of the ring terminals (split/rolled seam and cheap crappy PVC insulated terminal), no biggie I was gonna extend the leads into banana jacks so I can use them with alligator clamps anyway.

Surprisingly affordable here compared to a "dumb" Ctek charger which I was using before. Voltage reading is only off by 0.02V during storage mode (about 0.1A draw through the leads) so I think the calibration of the onboard voltmeter is spot on. It's a shame it only reads current in 0.1A steps though (voltage in 0.01 steps, including adjustments not just read back).

Efficiency is fairly good, I'm reading about the 87% mark in the ~50W range, I can't test it's claimed 95% maximum because I can't load the thing high enough. It was 3-4% better than the Ctek from memory at a similar load.

Down low when it was supplying ~1.3W or so, it was only drawing 2.7W so I'm very pleased with the performance for long term overnight use. I can't remember the exact values of my Ctek MXS5.0 but it was quite a bit worse.

Ahh it's nice having voltage/current read out over bluetooth, I don't need to whip out the multimeter+clamp meter and open the bonnet every time I want to check up on things now. I wish I could do a teardown but it's IP67 and potted inside. 

I used to use my Advantest TR6143 SMU to float charge batteries only during the day when the sun was out because I have rooftop solar here. It drew ~200W while only supplying 25W or so ahahahah, but at least I had 4.5 digit precision. 

[blackbird]

While it's not (strictly speaking) a piece of T&M equipment, I did just buy this.
Picture of a nice car
I am not ashamed to admit that I've already done a bit of teardown on it. And yes, I'm enjoying learning its user interface!

Ah, the Evora GT   

Nice to see British cars in the USA. I know German/Swedish cars are popular in the USA, how about the other European car brands?
As long as I can recall I have a weak for British cars. Have owned a Rover many years ago and since 2000 an MGB GT.

Don't tear it apart, turn it on...... Opposite of what Dave always says. 

Enjoy this beauty, many safe and happy miles.

[IDEngineer]

Ah, the Evora GT    Nice to see British cars in the USA.

Thanks for the kind comments!

As I've recently learned, there's a small but enthusiastic community of Lotus owners here in the USA. They stopped importing the Elise and Exige a while back because Lotus wasn't willing to compromise those two cars to meet USA crash requirements. The Evora is a completely different vehicle with different design goals so they have been able to meet the requirements (although the front end is different here vs. everywhere else in order to meet the 5 MPH bumper requirement... there's a lively debate about which front end looks better, and some here have swapped for the non-USA version).

You do see Land Rovers around, and of course the high end luxury brands like Rolls Royce, Bentley, etc. McLaren is here too, often at the same dealers as Lotus (that's the case for my nearest dealer, in Seattle).

Don't worry, I'm not doing a complete tear-down on the Evora GT. But there are a couple of things I'm considering and I want to do them tastefully, which requires a bit of exploration. For example, while Lotus is recognized as the leader in "the driving experience" and full driver engagement, they are definitely substandard in the electronics department. The passive current consumption of the electronics is enough to drain the standard Group 24 lead-acid battery in 2-3 weeks to the point that the engine won't crank anymore! They actually ship the Evora with a Lotus-branded Battery Tender and the little pigtail comes pre-installed by the factory on the battery terminals (in the trunk under the mid-engine hatch). They openly recommend that you plug in the Battery Tender if the car won't be driven for more than 1-2 weeks. This means folks often leave the engine hatch unlatched to allow the Battery Tender cable to snake into it, and there's been more than one case of someone driving away with the cable still connected.

So a popular mod is to install one of those magnetic 12VDC connectors on the outside of the car, such that you can leave the engine hatch closed and if you forget about it the cable will just cleanly pull away. Thing is, that connector requires a 1+ inch hole to be drilled somewhere. Folks have gotten creative about hiding it in the rear wheel wells, etc. but I just shudder at drilling a hole like that in a brand new car like this.

Fortunately, the Evora GT has this one-piece replaceable set of little "bumperettes" on either side of the rear license plate that are just an injection molded plastic part. Lots of people remove that in the spirit of appearance. But those bumperettes are hollow, and I'm thinking of putting the connector hole in the side of one bumperette, which would yield the functionality without touching the main part of the car. Then the question becomes how to cleanly get the wiring from the inside of the trunk to the connector. This is where the partial tear-down comes in... I removed the rearmost panel on the inside of the trunk so I could explore what access is possible. I believe I can use one of the top holes for the license plate mounting to fish out the wire to the bumperette, and rely on the two bottom holes to secure the plate itself.