I have tried WTHA1 HotAir. Unfortunately against good name of Weller I had 4 stations what i exchange for 5 months.
Weller does have some QC issues, but usually with stuff made in either Mexico (WES/D51 stations & PT tips for it), and LT series tips made in Bosnia. So yeah, the fact the WTHA has a COO=Mexico, that alone could be the problem. But so could a design issue (too premature for sale, but management overruled the engineering dept.).
The only QC issue I'm aware of with Germany that was like this, was with the initial release of the WX stations. They issued a recall, and have solved those issues some time ago (initially shipped prematurely).
I have ask Weller for solution:
- WXR 3031 - offer price by Weller in consider of WTHA1 issues and WT 1010 will be redundancy
- WXA 2010 - for free + some special price for WXP120 set (we must buy the air compressor then) and WT 1010 will be redundancy
- cancelling the contract
I'd say go with option 3 and start over; whether you opt for a Weller iron and/or desolder tool/s or not. In regard to shop air, that's useful for cleaning as well (and less expensive than disposable spray can dusters in the long run).
The Weller HAP200 is only 200W, and the base unit only delivers up to 20l/m of airflow (i.e. this thing is meant for cell phones).
So I'm with
wraper;
get the Quick 861DW. Seriously, it's that good.
The only issue per se is the fact that LED or fluorescent lighting flickers when it's heating the element (haven't noticed it with halogen incandescent bulbs on the same circuit). Though I've not done myself yet, it's fixable (either replace or amend it's internal chassis mounted EMI filter).
I just need to get around to it (will add a new EMI filter on a future order if I can remember to do so).
The only other upgrade I can think of would be to swap the hard-wired power cord for an IEC connector. It's not necessary, but would allow for a heavier wire gauge if you're near the distance limit of the AC circuit it's plugged into (or if you need it, a longer power cord without having to cut up a suitable extension cord). BTW, the Quick 856 models get an IEC connector from the factory.
Internally, the 861Dx models consists of a blower motor control board, EMI filter, and transformer mounted to the inside of the case, and the main control board is mounted on the face plate IIRC (triac is mounted on this). So I suspect you can add a timer and/or foot pedal should you need it (dump the firmware prior to rewriting it's contents, or desolder the uC first and program another with your own/modified firmware).
It may not matter to you, but I also like the fact it uses a separate stand.
Much less clutter by only having the stand sitting on the bench when needed (main unit can remain on a shelf). For disclosure, my bench typically looks like a garbage truck was emptied on it, then hit by a tornado.
Regarding nozzles, you really don't need the specialty shapes IME.
It comes with 3 round nozzles (S,M,L; ~4, 6, and 12mm respectively). I find the medium one that comes with it is used more than the other two combined (by far in fact).
If you do need them, the 861DW or 861DS use the NK series (the 856 models too), and it seems they may be including the adapter in current production (I know they're doing so with the 861DS versions sold in the EU), but I can't confirm that with the other stations that use the NK series nozzles. The only shape I wish they offered in the NK series would be bent nozzles. You can get them in the A series, but I suspect a bit of round steel would allow me to bend them (better ergonomics IME). The round NK series nozzles are cheap, so a mistake isn't going to make me
.
Fortunately, the NK850 adapter allows you to use the types with a screw clamp (A series P/N's) if your station comes with it (not found the adapter by itself in the US).
In fact, I find making shields/protectors from sheet metal a better option. For example, soda cans, disposable aluminum baking trays, inexpensive steel cookie/biscuit sheets, brass,... will do for sheet metal. Just add some rivets or high temp solder + acid flux paste to attach the two ends together if it's in a shape that you'll use many times. Which means they're easy to make, and won't cost you all that much either.
Dollar/Pound type stores are your friend for the cookie sheet or disposable aluminum pans.
Hobby stores are good for small sizes of sheet metal as well. Even the tooling isn't all that expensive; tin snips/shears + either a rivet gun (need to drill a couple of holes of course) or torch. Even the consumables won't cost you a fortune.
FWIW, I initially started with trying to fold the ends together, then solder; now I prefer the rivet method as it's easier (no chance of starting a fire either). If it's for a one-off job, Kapton tape will suffice.
That said, if you'd rather have some ready-made, JBC offers them (
JBC Protectors). Not horribly expensive either.
They also offer versions with the vacuum portion of a tripod permanently fixed. Oh, and if you're wondering, they're made of stainless steel (bit better material, but will cost more and is harder to find small quantities IME).
Finally Weller pickup WTHA1 (now I am without hotair and because i repair like service center it is big issue for me), no answer officially from Weller and local dealer told me I must ask for money back.
I presume it's past the dealer's typical return period, but they should take it back and refund you regardless given the amount of aggravation this has caused you IMHO.
Worth a shot as it could make for a great customer experience despite the crappy stations you've received.
Considering to sell WT1010 soldering station and switch to other brand.
Refund and start from scratch IMHO, as it doesn't seem Weller's current products are meeting your needs (see above). And they're certainly not the least expensive way to go either (and I mean vs. other top-tier brands).
Biggest savings will come from the Quick 861DW if you opt for that, which could either put more money back in your pocket, or be used for the tips/nozzles you do need.
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