On this basis, if I were you, I'd be using the through-hole barrel jacks and electrolytic caps instead of the SMD ones you're using there.
Thanks. I agree, but a lot of this is about exercise and learning through playing. I just wanted to make my first SMD board as SMD as I could make it. It still has THT pin headers and switch wiring.
Anyway, the board arrived! Oddly it arrived before the one I ordered 2 weeks before it. (The binary clock). Note to self, DHL is worth it, EMS not so much. The Binary Clock is stuck with Parcel Force because customs were a dick about it, so hopefully I only have to pay the £1.80 or so VAT and the extortionate admin fee to parcel force to release it. Unless customs have valued it higher or consider it a commercial import.
Anyway... "Piper Lamp".
* The DC jack custom foot print aligns perfectly, the two drill holes for it's mechanical stays align perfectly.
* It fits in the case.
* The screw holes align!
* The lid closes with the DC barrel jack in place, although it's tight, probably 0.5mm too high, but that will not both how it looks. I could sand the top of the barrel jack or bend the SMD feet up a fraction, but I don't think I'll bother.
All looks great. I might try and make one up tonight to test it. I have 5 sets of components and 10 boards, I can make a few of them and give the best one to my daughter.
For completeness, the rest of the device has come along.
A section of 2" white PVC waste pipe from the hardware store fits absolutely perfectly into the ring where the lamp holder would go in the lamp shade, perfectly in that it actually holds the pipe in place.
Around this bit of pipe a 1m length of WS2811 LEDs (12V 3xseries sets) wraps in a spiral. The glue, although it claims "3M" of course is pants and it has started to peel at the ends which are under more stress. A dob of thick CA glue will hold it.
The chaining wires on the top I will remove by pulling or melting the hot glue away and desoldering them, they won't be needed. The other end the tail + - wires will be cut right back, hopefully in such a way that they can never short againt each other and the remaining + - and Data go into the 3 pin heading in the device.
I will drill small holes to add cable ties for durability and keep the pipe in place, then add hot snot around the rim and cable tie it in place. It has to survive a few knocks as and table lamp will get.
Of course the final piece is a 12V DC wall wart.
The lamp is free standing as it doesn't require air flow for cooling.
A lot is obviously involved in programming the LED patterns and the modes selected by the switch. Having an ISP header is all but essential of course.
Fingers crossed that everything works out.