HA!
At least the "default page layout" problem in 'Eeschema' now has a solution.
The initial page layout is indeed hardcoded into the KiCAD binaries... who'd have imagined that in the 21st century.
But with a lot of playing around, I finally found out how it works: The key is the /usr/share/kicad/template/kicad.pro file. This is the default project file that's copied to every new project right at the beginning.
The final line in kicad.pro is:
[eeschema/libraries]
After this line, append:
[schematic_editor]
version=1
PageLayoutDescrFile=pagelayout_default.kicad_wks
The file name is your preferred schematic page layout in /usr/share/kicad/template
I've not tested it with other file locations/names yet, but it works.
EDIT:
Just tested it with PageLayoutDescrFile=$HOME/.local/share/kicad/template/pagelayout_default.kicad_wks
Nice thing about this setup is, that if you don't have a personal page layout file, it will revert to the hard coded one with no issues.