The part could have been re-reeled, how can one tell?
Hmm, not always easy. I once got some salvaged parts that 50% had been powered up with the chips backward! The giveaway was the date codes were all over the place on the same reel. Diodes are not big enough to have date codes, though.
Anyway it sometimes jumped half way up the nozzle, I even saw the nozzle ‘grabbing” a part mid-air once then continued down into the pocket and lifting two components after that
Yes, if the nozzle is not centered on the flat top of the part, it can flip the part sideways or fully upside down.
The Optimat feeders are purely mechanical and all, from 8 to 32 mm, are actuated by the air cilinder mounted on the head.
So, then the problem is the cover blade is not keeping the part from jumping in the pocket. There should be very little space above the part until the cover blade is retracted. This has worked VERY well on my CSM with Yamaha-style feeders, and flipped parts are quite rare. Mis-picks are more common the smaller the parts are.
I never experienced the machine not recognising a fiducial at all but the manual states that for best accuracy a double cross fiducial (looks like this:#) should be used.
I use round fiducials only. The CSM can use plated through holes for fiducials, or anything that is solid copper, but they recommend round or octagon. You have the option of XY or XYX fiducial measurement. The XYX uses the result of the X scan centroid for the Y scan, and then after the Y centroid is obtained, goes back and re-does the X scan. I do that on boards with fine pitch parts, not needed on ordinary boards with 0805 and SOIC parts.
I'm not sure what your # fiducial is. I have seen single cross designs used on some boards.
Perhaps as an experiment I should ask the board house to skip HASL on the fiducials, just bare copper. Or only use ENIG.
Bare copper should be fine until it tarnishes. Most (like 99+%) of my HASL fiducials are just FINE. More common is a solder paste fingerprint over part of the fiducial. But, I have had just a FEW fiducials that had a kind of barrle-shaped blob on them, and my "beam sensor" needs a really flat, reflective surface to bounce light right back into it.
Watch out for gold finishes, great for long-term solderability, but if not done right, you can get HORRIBLE black pad issues. If it doesn't solder properly on the first try, rework is some kind of nightmare from hell! I tried it once (I think it was just gold flash on bare copper, NOT ENIG) and NEVER AGAIN!
Jon