@Harvs, very impressive.
If you are going USB, why not go Bluetooth or Wifi? Then, you only have to send power over?
Can you elaborate on the pulley math? When you say one full step @ 40T is 0.4mm, this is based on some pulley pitch?
Will the head rotate to fix any angle error during component pick up?
Do you step the motors yourself? Or do you issue a high level command the there is a stepper motor controller board that does the motion profiling and stepping? Are you using pieces out of 3D printers? They have a similar need.
Can you share more details around the components and design? I'd like to learn more before jumping in and building one.
Hi Harjit, there's nothing very impressive about it (other than the time investment), it's pretty much following the fairly well trodden route of building an OpenPNP build.
The machine I'm largely copying is this one
https://hackaday.io/project/9319/logsBut head over to the OpenPNP project to see other examples.
But to answer your questions:
The USB is mainly for the camera, but may as well put a hub IC up there and run the control signals as well. The OpenPNP folk don't recommend using a IP camera due to latency issues, never tried it myself but I'm pretty confident they've been down that rabbit hole.
The belts are GT2 size, which has a 2mm pitch, so it's simply 40 tooth*2mm for the circumference / 200 whole steps per rev for standard steppers. So 40*2/200=0.4mm. I do get reasonably reliable 0.1mm moves, but it's not that great.
The vid I showed wasn't using the bottom camera, so it can only go off the feeder (tape) alignment and the rotation of the part on the board. I've since got the bottom camera working, so now it takes the part over the bottom camera after pick and corrects for misalignment of both offset and rotation from the pick (in theory, it does seem to work pretty well in practice as well). There's lots of videos on youtube of this if you search for OpenPNP.
OpenPNP generates G-code outputs which you direct to whatever controller you've got. The "standard" route is pretty much using a smoothieboard (or compatible), as they have enough stepper drivers and IO to do everything from the one board. So you can pretty much get one of those and the problems solved.
I really have nothing to add beyond what's on that HaD link above unless you want info on something specific. There's a google docs spreadsheet in that link that has the BoM, which is very useful as there's a lot of parts to order.
Other than that, there's nothing particularly difficult about it, just it takes quite a time investment (both waiting for the 20odd aliexpress orders you'll make) and the careful build/setup. There's lots of interesting problems in the setup and tuning, like I never thought to consider that the sensor on the USB "microscope" camera I used is actually a 10 or so degrees off being true to the body which causes all sorts of issues.
But overall it's only worth it really for the interest in doing it. The difference in cost between the DIY route and the low end Chinese machines doesn't really make it worth it from a time perspective.