Electronics > Mechanical & Automation Engineering

plasting welding fluke scopemeter chassis

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coppercone2:
Ok so my scope meter Fluke 99 is electrically fine but the chassis is all sorts of fucked up. It needs new stand offs, many cracks fixed, etc.

So this is what I can't easily figure out:

1) What should I do with the bad standoffs? I can use a dremel to make the bottom flat from crumbled plastic, but what is something I can put there? I thought maybe 3d printer guys might have some kinda fancy standoff thing or good technique, I don't think I can glue em back together they break even when I use loctite medical grade superglue sensitizing surface tension changing primer with the best loctite glues. I don't mind changing screws and using metal inserts ones but I have no idea whats going to work, its mad frustrating, its thin and there is no room to work in, it needs to be super strong

2) can the exterior plastic shells be welded with some kind of plastic welding system? I have the best glues (DP8810, DP8805) for plastic that I know of, but their not going to cut the mustard here. I need some serious strength the word on the tip of my tongue is weld that shit up. I see them fix big ass trash cans and bumpers on youtube using a plastic welding system (its like tig or mig with hot air), I wanna do this kind of repair here, I don't think anything else is gonna hold.

I fixed a few cracks with glue and they keep manifesting and spreading out, I wanna do a real weld job where i use a die grinder /dremel burr to make a channel and actually fill it up with filler. It keeps spreading its like being on thin ice it just keeps moving outwards

spostma:

Super glue + baking soda can be  used to build up material;
Ty-raps and a not too hot soldering iron can be used to weld plastic cracks, see




Threaded Brass Inserts for platic are available from RS and AliExpress

coppercone2:
nah the super glue is not cutting it, I have tried it with baking soda also for 'fast cure'. I just think its not strong enough, I need to weld.

I saw a more advanced video where he bevels it with a burr and then fills the whole thing in with a rod, but does anyone know what rod is used for whatever fluke uses? I think they need to be compatible. I am not sure the best choice of filler rod.

SilverSolder:

I had to cut the door panels open on my car, and plastic weld the whole thing back together again, in order to re-apply the leather trim that had come off.  What worked the best for me was my hot air soldering station! - using the hot air from that, with plastic welding rods (should be the same type of plastic as the object you are working on).

Unlike working with metal, I found it best to heat the rod quite a bit, as well as the object being welded, and "feed" the rod into the seam.

It didn't look too bad in the end, but this was all done on the back of the door panel...  I wouldn't attempt to weld anything that had to look good afterwards, unless you are OK with sanding the whole thing down and painting it...

SilverSolder:

3M makes some eye-bleedingly expensive adhesives for plastics that are actually very good - but they don't act as fillers...  they will only fill very small gaps, good for putting cracked stuff back together.

A less expensive but also superb adhesive is Devcon 22045 Plastic Welder.  This is a urethane type adhesive, smells so evil that you almost can't believe it can be legal to sell it -  but it works fantastically well, and this stuff will fill gaps too.

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