Electronics > Mechanical & Automation Engineering

Which Screws Won't Cause Bleed through on Wood Filler For Bookcase

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5U4GB:

--- Quote from: Benta on September 04, 2023, 08:09:06 pm ---And the pro way is to use dowels and glue.
No reason for filler, it's invisible when done correctly. Not really possible to do with a hand drill, you need a drill press plus additional tooling.

--- End quote ---

That's the way I'd do it too, but you need a set of quite sizeable clamps for that since you no longer have the screws pulling the joint tight, really depends what the OP has access to.

5U4GB:

--- Quote from: jpanhalt on September 05, 2023, 08:42:48 am ---Even with 1-1/16" poplar, a 48" wide shelf may sag, particularly if loaded with heavy books (e.g., 10" deep).

--- End quote ---

Just converted that to something I understand and yeah, 1.2m unsupported filled with books is going to be a stretch.  For my bookcases I used something like 30mm nosing glued and brad-nailed to each shelf, which hugely increases the load-carry capacity of the shelf and prevents sagging.  The shelves were also supported at the back (it's a closed back) so there's no chance of any sagging, and there's a ton of weight on those bookcases.

Literally.  There's extra bearers under the floor for that room.

5U4GB:

--- Quote from: bostonman on September 06, 2023, 04:45:34 pm ---From reading the replies, it looks like the yellow Deckmate screws could bleed through over time.

--- End quote ---

I'm not familiar with Deckmate but the name and yellow colour implies they're <brandname>cote coated, designed for use outdoors in treated timber which just eats standard zinc-coated screws if there's any copper involved (CCA, ACQ, etc, there's almost always copper involved), rather than standard yellow zinc, so you may not get bleedthrough from them.

OTOH if you're working indoors with untreated timber then you can probably use anything since you're not going to expose the screws to anything nasty.

bostonman:
I changed the subject to accommodate my original question more accurately.

Just an update: I took a weight of all the wood. Each shelf weighs 10lbs and the sides weigh 16lbs each, totaling 92lbs in wood weight.

Also, I bought stainless steel Torx screws, and have begun painting the wood. Hopefully by the weekend or next week I'll try screwing it together.

bostonman:
I discovered something interesting.

In order to get an idea of how wood fill would look, I took a junk piece of Poplar, drilled a hole, filled it with the wood filler, let it dry over night, and placed a layer of clear stain over it.

The section that didn't have the wood filler dried overnight as usual, however, the section with the wood filler has remained tacky for about a week now. It's less tacky than the first two or three days, but still, tacky.

On a side note, I may just keep the screws exposed as I like the look. They are countersunk, the holes have a coat of poly, and the screws are stainless steel. The look is appealing to me, so I may go with that.

I considered buying a boring bit to use pegs, but this Poplar has many different shades. I have one that has a black line down the side, another is dark, others are light, etc...)

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