Hello,
I wanted to share my latest (small) adventure in making a voltage reference.
I had wanted to design and make one myself for some time,
and made a lot of attempts on paper and even in KiCad, but nothing was constructed.
Target accuracy: about 5 digits, more is a bonus.
A couple of weeks ago, I got a very interesting idea, one that I had not seen before.
Once I started to really think things through, the idea became only more attractive.
The idea is to use an LT3042 as output buffer in combination with an LM399, in bootstrap mode.
And there is also an opamp with some precision resistors to make the output 10 Volt.
The combination of an LM399 and an LT3402 has been proposed before, see for example
https://www.eevblog.com/forum/metrology/lm399-based-10-v-reference/msg4777118/#msg4777118but as far as I know not yet in a bootstrap configuration.
Using the LT3042 as output buffer gives excellent regulation and current limit on the terminals.
And there is plenty of current available to supply not only the LM399, but also the opamp.
Once the idea is clear, the schematic almost drew itself!
[see schematic]
The output voltage of the LT3042 is set by the output of the opamp.
Both inputs of the opamp are approximately 7 V, so no problem with a supply of 10V there.
The output of the opamp is connected with a 47k resistor to the set pin of the LT3042.
The set pin is connected internally to a precision current source of 100uA.
The voltage on the set pin is taken by the LT3042 as reference for the output.
So the voltage at the output of the opamp is 100uA * 47k = 4.7 V lower than the regulator output.
Assuming the regulator output is indeed the intended 10 V, the output of the opamp is 5.3 V.
That means also from the output perspective, the opamp can be supplied by the 10V regulated output!
In other similarly bootstrapped power supplies, the required voltage drop on the output of the opamp
is provided by a zener diode, but courtesy of the LT3042 current source, here a resistor suffices nicely.
The input section of the opamp is constructed such that Kelvin connections to the banana sockets can be made.
The use of three wires per banana socket is not strictly necessary,
but I wanted to have maximal flexibility, as that part of the schematic was the least certain for me.
The trim pot is used to fine-adjust the output voltage.
It is connected such that the wiper resistance does not play a role in the output voltage.
Will the bootstrap fly? Well, the 100uA current source is supplied by the input of the regulator,
which in this case is the output of the LM7812. So the current source will always work, no matter what.
Now even if the opamp would provide a short to ground at start up (which is the worst case),
the output of the LT3042 will rise to 4.7 V, and that is more than enough to get out of the 0 V corner.
So the circuit will reliably settle at the intended 10 V output level.
I had a few LT3042 modules lying around (I knew they would come in handy sometime!),
and one of these modules was prepared by removing four resistors.
Firstly, the 33k set resistor (blue-green) needs to be removed, otherwise it just won't work.
Also, I removed the resistor that drives the power-on LED, which simply saves a bunch of current.
The module will be built into a box, and so the LED will be invisible anyway.
For good measure, I also removed the two resistors connected to the PGFB pin.
That reduces wasted current to a minimum. In the schematic, that PGFB pin is connected to Vin.
The location of all four resistors is indicated in the picture below:
The must-remove in red, the recommended-remove in orange, and the if-you-feel-like-it-remove in yellow.
The original picture, which was quite helpful, was found in another EEV blog thread,
but I must apologize not to provide proper reference, I can not find it anymore.
In reality, the last three resistors were removed only after the entire reference was up and working.
[see module]
Next I made a board layout in KiCad for a prototype reference on a small experimenter board.
Making the symbol and footprint for the LT3042 module was simple, and the enite schematic fit
quite naturally on a standard 30x70 mm board with 10x24 holes.
The traces on the back side use only perpendicular directions, and are constrained to the 0.1" grid,
so they are easy to make with bare wires. The traces on the front side are free-format,
and will be made with insulated wire.
[see layout]
Actual construction was quite easy, and the following pictures should give
a fair impression of how the prototype board was assembled.
For the moment, the opamp, the precision resistors, and the LM199 are socketed.
Soldered connections will be used at a later stage.
The small green board is just to emulate the intended Kelvin connections to the banana sockets.
[see bottom, top, complete]
The first LM199 I tried produces 7.07 V, so in this case, I added a third resistor to the 5+2 k.
For now, I have used "normal" 0.1% accurate resistors. Not because of the precision per se
(the trim pot takes care of that), but because I expect/hope that the TC and drift are better.
I can check and trim the output value by measuring it with my Fluke 8840A.
Stability is good (even with the new LM199), no drift has been seen yet.
Total component cost: about $20!
So now I am at the point where I am considering how to build the reference into a box.
The plan is to use two 9 V rechargeable batteries as supply.
I have a plastic Hammond case that seems to be made for this purpose (the batteries fit precisely
when positioned on a side), but I also have a somewhat clunky metal box.
I would appreciate any and all feedback at this point.
Suggestions for further improvement would be greatly appreciated.
Should I design a real PCB, perhaps even with stress relief slots?
Is plastic sufficient, or should I go for the metal case?
Which type of banana sockets should I use? Etc., etc.